April 30, 2015 - Day 5 Puente la Reina --> Estella 22 K

April 30, 2015 - Day 5  Puente la Reina --> Estella 22 K

Slept very soundly in my loft bed, but it was quite cold when I woke. In the 40's. Got dressed and headed over to yet another wonderful meal at Hotel Jakue. We checked out and were on the road by 8:15 am, planning to meet up with Steve and Leon around 8:30 am near their hotel. However, we never saw their hotel, and crossed the ancient bridge out of town over the Argo River at about 8:30 am. So, I texted Leon to let him know, and hoped we would run across them sometime later. 

This was one of the best days. Perfect weather - sunny, blue skies with the temp reaching the low 70's. Stunning views of the lush, green fields along well-maintained paths, then interspersed with some rather steep inclines. However, what I noticed was that we seem to be turning another corner somewhat. Even though our legs are still tired, we are getting stronger on the climbs. And Donna is making the most noticeable improvement. Getting stronger and stronger. She is almost right with me most of the times on the straight and narrow paths, and getting up the hills and inclines much faster. 

We hiked through several beautiful little towns - all with very steep, narrow roads. Donna and I stopped in Cirauqui for a late morning Cafe con Leche and omelet sandwich. As we headed out of town, this Spanish gentleman kept trying to tell us something about taking a picture. He was very insistent that we not miss it, although I had no idea what he was saying. Then, there it was! Out in the distance spread across a hill was the map of the world made of tires and some sort of plants. Again, a scene from the movie as I recall - or from some other documentary I have seen. It took my breath away.

We continued on. Congratulating ourselves on how much we are improving. Not perfect, and certainly having to work hard, but staying with it and not whining too much. Up and down hills and valleys and gulches. Up and down. Another turning point - we stripped to shorts and T-shirts. Finally, around noon, we were walking through another small, ancient town, when I noticed a vending machine inside a garage and peered in - to my surprise, Steve and Leon were sitting at this little table drinking a coke. Apparently, they had passed us when we stopped to eat earlier, and we were now catching up to them again. We visited a bit about our adventures the night before, then hit the road together again for the final 10-12 K to Estella. Met a nice lady from Australia. We have also started seeing some of the same folks over and over again. In particular, there is this group of about 10 women from a South African hiking club that I have started to get to know. Neat ladies. 

Alas, at about the magic 5 mile mark from Estella, we were all struck again with a case of "Pamplona legs." Everyone gets quiet and starts shuffling. When we finally reached Estella, Donna and I had another 10-15 minutes to our B&B. And Donna started realizing that she was getting some blisters to compliment her "Pamplona legs." Add to that, we just hit the wall and were exhausted. Our B&B hosts were extremely friendly and helpful, and tried to recommend some places for dinner, all of which required "only 10 minutes or so" to walk. We retreated to our room...I started looking for places to stay the next few days, having learned that tomorrow begins a holiday weekend and there are "few rooms available in the inns.." Which might mean pilgrim albergues..which means sleeping in my clothes since I sent my sleeping bag home. It was at this point that Mom & George skyped us. We relayed how exhausted we were and how hard the Camino really is - much more difficult than the movie would lead you to believe. And Donna got some sympathy miles out of her newly forming blisters. I think Mom was a little in shock at the sight of us. She said she got a big kick out of one of my earlier comments about not feeling particularly "spiritual" - it has mostly been survival mode to this point, with some gradual improvements along the way. 

We did eventually venture out and found a neat Diner where we could get some real food. That has improved our outlook immensely. Plus, our B&B hostess is a nurse and offered to treat Donna's blisters. The kindness of strangers. This Camino experience has been a little on the ups and downs. It is weird how you will be feeling pretty good, then all of sudden you will get hit with "Pamplona legs" and exhaustion, only to be followed by a revival of sorts. Something like real life.

Tomorrow, we head over some more inclines to Los Arcos.  We plan to stay at a little albergue there. 

Before I sign off, I have to tell you the highlight of the day. About mid-afternoon, my sister beamed at me and said very sincerely, "I am so glad you got me to do this,"  

April 29, 2015 - Day 4 Pamplona --> Puente la Reina

April 29, 2015 - Day 4

Pamplona --> Puente la Reina - 23K

My body felt surprisingly good after a restful night (thanks Advil pm). Advil is the friend of all of us on this journey, with our various aches and pains. Miracle drug. 

We wandered through the streets of Pamplona, past beautiful parks and Navarre University, and headed toward Cizur Menor. A very clean and quaint looking town. From there, we started the gradual climb that would take a few hours up to the top of a ridge, Alto del Perdon, where bronze cut-out statues  are perched along the side, framed by hills of large wind turbines on either side. These statues are prominent in the movie, "The Way," and it was a high point of the Camino walk to reach this point. The long winding climb up was mostly on a dirt path, with massive fields of dense bright yellow flowers. Leon said he thought they were mustard fields. 

We all started fairly strong, except for Steve, who is struggling with his sore feet. He has a bad bunion on his right foot, and blisters that are very painful. While it helped that he sent his pack ahead to the next hotel to take off some of the weight while hiking, he started contemplating a day or two off to rest his feet. Take a taxi to the next goal town and rest. No final decision yet, will evaluate at the end of the day. 

Donna is looking stronger and stronger as she walks. I am very proud of her tenacity, and the way she has fought through the pain to a place where I can see she is starting to turn the corner physically. She has remained quite cheerful, even during the hardest challenges. I think we all are turning the corner physically, with the exception of Steve's feet. We also feel as though we are starting to trim down a bit, although I am eating a lot. Donna and I both looked at Steve the other day and commented that he looked as though he was trimming down a bit, which brought a big smile to his face. 

After leaving Alto del Perdon, we descended for what seemed like miles down steep rocky paths. After finally leveling out, we continued on and on and on..."Pamplona legs" were starting to set in again - the name we have started assigning to our feet and legs during the final 5 miles or so at the end of the day. It isn't pretty. We all start getting real quiet and shuffle a lot. At least the view was pretty. Large, lush rolling green grass fields on either side of the path. 

The Hotel Jakue was the first place we saw when we left the trail at Puente la Reina. It has one of the nicer pilgrim's albergue as well as traditional hotel rooms. I had called and booked the last hotel room available from Pamplona. The receptionist gave me this mischievous smile when I told her my name and said, "You realize that you booked the 'treehouse' don't you?" I told her all I knew was that I had booked the last room. Well, in fact, we did stay in a treehouse. Fantastic room with a rather unique bathroom, including a futuristic shower that took 10 minutes to figure out how to operate. But, very cool. A full size bed with a beautiful comforter, and a loft to climb up into - I called dibs on it. Had our own little balcony overlooking the trees and fields, and a coffee maker with half and half. I sat on the deck and sipped my first Via of the trip. Staying in the treehouse was one of those sort of surreal experiences. Randy Garmon and I have had several of those during our various bike trips. 

Before dinner, Donna and I had a foot/leg massage at the albergue. A big disappointment. Felt more like a gentle rub - like I might pet my cat - than a massage for tired, sore, aching muscles. I asked the guy several times to please use more pressure, without success. 

Hotel Jakue is also known, for good reason, for their outstanding dinner buffet. A beautiful spread of veggies, breads and desserts, with the choice of  pork or fish as the entre. Wine and coffee were included in the dinner, which cost approximately 12 euros. 

I spent an hour or so after dinner trying to work on the blog, and experiencing technical difficulties with photos. We also unsuccessfully tried to skype home. I was so frustrated that I waisted valuable rest time messing with technical stuff. I resolved that next time it appeared that wi-fi might be weak, I would immediately stop and leave it to the next day. We finally went to bed exhausted, but mostly very, very happy.

Tomorrow, it is on to Estella, another 23 K or so. I found the B&B Zakul - a little off the Camino, but hopefully not too far. Got a text from Leon & Steve - we will try to hook up on the Camino in the morning. 

Donna - April 29, 2015 Pamplona --> Puente la Reina – 22 K

Donna - April 29, 2015

The hike today was better.  Weather was good and the body is getting stronger. We walked by several parks as we worked our way through Pamplona.  We all regret not being able to spend more time exploring this city.

The views were spectacular all day with mountains in the background with snow to wide open fields with green swaying grass like crops and the yellow Canola crops.  We could not possibly capture in photographs.   

Highlight of today's trek was a climb to an overlook with the pilgrim iron structures at  Alto de perdon.

Then down for a long time over rocks in a washed out path for a mile or so and we finally wind around large fields until arriving at our destination.

The big surprise at our hotel jake was that we were sleeping in a treehouse,  it was so quaint and nice and such attest,  as if that wasn't enough the buffet was exceptional and we finally had our fill of vegetables. 

Really pleasant end to a long day.

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April 28, 2015 - Day 3 Zibiri --> Pamplona - 23 K

April 28, 2015 - Day 3

Zubiri --> Pamplona  - 23 k

Spent a somewhat sleepless night at the albergue - the lady in the bunk on the right snored all night long. A few others joined in on occasion, but she was most immediate. The albergue where we stayed was very nice. Two large rooms, one with probably 16-20 beds and the smaller room with about 10-12 beds. The bathroom and showers were very clean. However, takes a little getting used to for us older spoiled Americans who aren't used to co-ed sleeping/shower facilities. And snoring strangers. I can vouch for the fact that ear plugs generally are not effective.  This albergue also provided laundry services for 6 euros, which we took advantage of after traipsing through the rain and mud. Breakfast is provided as part of the 16 euro cost, and was quite nice. Breads and very good cereal. The one consistent throughout the trip is fabulous strong coffee with milk. 

Steve and Leon joined us as we were completing breakfast, and we planned for the day's walk to Pamplona. Steve is having some real issues with sore and blistered feet, as well as a sinus infection. Leon's knees are very achy. All four of us are generally sore all over, especially the legs and shoulders from the backpack straps. However, what is surprising is how much better you are the next day. You go to bed worrying whether you will be able to walk another 15-20 miles the next day, and wake up surprisingly revived - at least to start with. 

We headed out about 8:30 am in cool, but not cold, temps. Some intermittent rain drops to start, but looking to clear up through the morning to sunshine by the time we arrive in Pamplona. The path today was quite varied, intermingling between small one lane roads, muddy hillside inclines and descents, grassy paths along streams and through wooded areas. There were several fairly steep inclines, but fewer in number and shorter in duration. There were also many more vendors along the road, offering drinks and snacks. 

The highlights of the walk today were the animals. Several pastures of horses, all with new babies. One group of horses had a particularly unusual set of markings. Almost like a zerbra-ish smaller horse look. We also came close to a field of "baaing" sheep that were so cute. Another highlight was a black cat mischievously peering through the weeds of a fenced in backyard. He stared confidently directly into your eyes, as if connecting on some soul level. My favorite. 

After approximately 10 miles or so, I started feeling the walk in my legs more and more. By the time we were 5 miles out from Pamplona, I was downright hurting and getting stiffer and stiffer. I noticed that Donna, Steve and Leon were also walking a little more stiffly, and none of us were talking. I think it safe to say that we were sort of shuffling in pain and exhaustion as we crossed the ancient bridge into Pamplona. Then began the task of locating the hotel. After some stops and starts, we finally ended up at the Hotel Yodi, near the plaza. 

Hotel Yodi was a real haven. A lovely room with a tub to soak in. And re-group a little. Donna and I decided to lighten our loads by sending some stuff home, most notably the sleeping bags and some various other assorted items. We were fortunate to be assisted in this by a wonderful woman named Ursala, introduced to us by Steve and Leon. Ursala was the Spanish contact who set up their itinerary for the Camino. She took our stuff with her to mail to Donna's, and thus made our day. Ursala also helped us locate a restaurant that would serve early (6:30-ish or 7 pm), and that offered food we relished, I.e. more "normal" food for us like veggies, pasta, meat. We happily shuffled back to the hotel after dinner to relax for the evening and contemplate the next day's walk. 

I have to say that so far the Camino has been more of a survival test - mainly physical - and less of the personal spiritual encounter I had hoped for.  When you hurt and are occupied with the thought of finding a place to rest and something to eat as your primary focus, it tends to distract you from appreciating the beauty of nature as much as you might otherwise. Not to say there isn't much beauty and some stunning scenery. I am hopeful as our physical conditioning improves we will relax into a slower paced rhythm and easier existence. Become a little more pilgrim like and less modern. At least, that is my goal. 

  

Donna - April 28, 2015 - Day 3 - Zibiri --> Pamplona

Although the four musketeers started out rough, it turned out to be a better hiking day.  With sunshine and perfect temp we stopped along the way to admire the scenery and especially the many fields of horses.  There were many foals with their mothers and one very pregnant mare stuck her head over the fence to get a scratch - made my day.

There was also some small speckled horses that I have no idea of breed that were fun to watch - especially one rambunctious colt that kept trying to get into trouble.

We maintained a steady pace for the 23 km to   Pamplona but ended the day looking like ravaged confederate soldiers limping to our hotel (yoldi).

I was beyond tired and hungry (just had nuts for lunch) but nothing opened for real food until 7 or 8 we had to make do with a cafe con leite until dinner with the boys.

I can honestly say I am not a true pilgrim since I fully appreciated the hotel - clean and with a bathtub that Kim and I made full use soaking our tired achy bodies,

Afterwards, we were fortunate to be able to meet Ursula who was a liaison to the trip for Leon and Steve.  They arranged to have her to transport most of their gear ahead to next hotel stops to lighten their load and make walking a little easier.  Kim and I  asked if she could mail home most our cold weather gear a sleeping bags to lighten our packs and she was so kind to enthusiastically do that for us.  Not lugging items no longer needed will be a blessing.

Not only did Ursula help lighten our load but also escorted us to the square and talked to several cafe's to arrange to get us some real food at 6:30 pm which was still a bit early.  It was heaven to finally eat and have some good conversation and laughs.

After some Advil pm I finally slept - tomorrow is going to be a better day.

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April 27, 2015 - Day 2

April 27, 2015 - Day 2

Roncevalles --> Zubiri - 22 k

It poured rain all night long. Surprisingly, neither Donna nor I slept that soundly. 

We had agreed to meet up with our Camino brothers, Steve and Leon at 8:30 am, to co-ordinate    the day's hike. Since breakfast was a roll and coffee at our place, Donna and I headed out early before our Camino brothers thinking we would be stopping for breakfast #2 along the way and they would catch up. It was pouring down rain and in the 40's as we started out. I took a picture of a little church, and the sign for Santiago - 790 k away. Our goal. 

We trudged along in the rain along muddy, wet trails for an hour or so. A couple little inclines, but nothing like the first day. Around 10:00 am, Donna and I stopped for a potato galette looking breakfast item and a strong cup of coffee. I am still a little discombobulated by the language and money situation. Mostly I point at pictures or words I think I recognize as something I want to eat. Seems to work out ok so far. When Donna and I stopped for breakfast, we were pretty much drenched. As we left the breakfast cafe, Steve and Leon just happened to come up at that very moment - perfect timing! So, we resumed the Camino adventure together. We have all agreed that our meeting on the Camino is no co-incidence and we consider ourselves each others' guardian angels. 

Today, our legs felt amazingly good to start with, but we all definitely lost steam along the way. Donna and Leon walked together most of the day, and Steve and I walked together. We had the best conversations regarding life stories and, in particular, our spiritual journeys and beliefs. I found in Steve a real kindred spirit. And we agreed that we were put on the hike together for some very specific purposes. Fun stuff.

The last couple of hours were nothing short of excruciating - all four of us were stiff, sore and somewhat glazed over. As we crossed the highway at one point, a car turned around and came back to park next to us. A young woman carrying a box enthusiastically approached and told us they had just watched the movie and what we were doing was amazing - she said they had just come from Pamplona and handed over the box, which had still-warm pastries inside for us. The most delicious chocolate mini-croissant that just melted in your mouth. The thoughtfulness of these strangers made our day.

The four of us sort of stumbled into Zubiri on extremely tired legs at approx 3:30 pm. I keep taking comfort in the fact that the hardest physical legs of the Camino are supposedly over.

We are staying tonight in our first albergue. Donna and I are in a room with 5-6 other pilgrims, sharing communal bath facilitates. A real Camino experience. We ate an early lasagna dinner with more of that really good coffee across the street. Visited with Steve and Leon for a bit tonight, and I gave them tape,  vasoline and tiger balm for their ailments. 

Tomorrow we head to Pamplona - approx 22 k. We do not anticipate too many hills and inclines, bit are still a bit wary because our legs are really tired. Luckily, the weather forecast does not look like rain, but will be cool in the 40's. Donna and I went ahead and made a reservation at a small hotel for tomorrow. 

April 26, 2015 - Day 1

St. Jean, France --> Roncevalles, Spain -  25 k 

After a delightful breakfast at the hotel, we finally started our Camino at 8:30 am. 

Our goal to begin with was a "warmup" day of 8 kilometers (approx. 5 miles) to Orisson, where we had reservations to stay at a highly recommended hostel. After crossing the river in town, we started the incline out of town, a fairly steep incline on a road that went on for some time.  There were a number of other pilgrims that we would see throughout the day. Pretty little farms and houses along the way, with a view of the Pyrenees in the distance - the mountains we were going to be climbing up and over. 

Eventually, the paved road gave way to a sharply-inclined trail that continued up into the mountains. I was encouraged that my pre-hike training at the ravines of River Place Nature Trail seemed to prepare me fairly well for the long inclines. Although the forecast was for near 100% chance of rain, we lucked out and it was merely cloudy. However, visibility was good and we got a sense of the beautiful vistas. I had dressed in full rain gear, but quickly stripped to a T-shirt because I was sweating profusely up the hills. 

Donna and I proceeded at our own pace. Along the way, we met and chatted with several other pilgrims. It soon became apparent that Steve and Leon would be our companions for the day. They are from Indiana, and had just come from viewing the Shroud of Turin. They were convinced it was the real deal, and that made for one of many interesting conversations throughout the day. Steve and Leon met at their Catholic church several years ago. Since then, they have made numerous mission trips in several places around the world. Leon is a retired school mechanic, and has a wife and 5 children he is very proud of. Steve is a nurse. Donna and I felt an immediate connection with them, and we all looked after each other throughout the day.  

The general progression was that I would forge ahead up to a clearing and wait for everyone to catch up. Then we would do it again. After winding up along hairpin curves on the paved road, we eventually ventured out onto a dirt path that continued sharply up. We arrived at Orisson at approximately 11:30 am, and contemplated whether to continue on to Roncevalles, given that it was so early in the day, and we were enjoying the company of Steve and Leon.  I left the decision of whether to proceed to Donna, since it would be another 18 k, and not getting any easier. She voted to move on with Steve and Leon, and I cancelled the Orission reservation.      

We continued up steep, steep inclines for what seemed forever - intermingled with gusty winds. Although there were occasional rain drops, no major percipitation.  Continued on up and up the mountains. Legs screaming.  Finally, after what seemed hours, we entered into wooded areas at the top, and even began seeing some left over snow on the sides. Just when we started thinking we had reached the top where it leveled out, another series of climbs would begin. We started taking more and more frequent rest stops, as our legs were screaming. Then we finally did reach the top (1430 m) and the sharp descent began through forested trails for several miles. About 30 minutes from Roncevalles, it started raining. It all became just a little surreal as we just kept putting one foot ahead of the other down the mountain trail, which was beginning to get muddy. Meanwhile, I was praying that we would be able to find a room, since we did not have a reservation, and staying in a room full of pilgrims was not sounding appealing. 

We finally reached Roncevalles at about 5:45 pm, and the first hotel we checked was full. Donna had that glazed over look, meaning she needed food and soon, and I knew her legs were shot (as were everyone's) so I parked her on a bench while I went with Steve and Leon to see if there were any rooms at their hotel. No. Then checked the pilgrims albuguer, which did have some beds. On my way back to get Donna, I checked one last small hotel and, thankfully, they had a room with 2 beds and a private bath. The owner was very kind, and could tell I was a little frazzled, so he took a deep breath and told me (in Spanish, I think) to be calm - his casa was my casa. So, I got the room lined up, retrieved my sister and we settled in to what seemed like heaven to our tired, worn out bodies. Having revived sufficiently, we had a nice dinner at Hotel Roncevalles, steak, potatoes and salad, with that wonderful coffee. Steve and Leon joined us toward the end and we re-counted the challenges of the day. Steve bemoaned that his feet were a mess with blisters and such. I offered my leuka tape and vasoline for tomorrow. We agreed to meet at 8:30 am on Monday morning for the 22 k trek to Zibiri.

I have to say that today was one of the most physically challenging adventures I have encountered. The relief I felt when we finally got to Roncevalles and settled in was immense. I kept reminding myself that the first couple of days on the Camino are the hardest, and it will get easier...

Donna's "Getting to St. Jean"

Day 1

The trip from Atlanta to St Jean Pied de Porte was extremely smooth but quite a long day being in pretzel pose so we were glad to finally arrive at Hotel ratmanchu and to stretch out flat.

This hotel was central to everything and so we struck out to get our "credentials" and to get some food.   Our luck continued as we happen to select a wonderful restaurant with an outdoor courtyard and had our first pilgrim menu.  It was a fabulous salad, roast chicken. Potatoes and a dessert.  One of the things Kim and I are enjoying the most is the cafe au lait.

After feeling human again We struck out to find the start of the  Napoleon way and to admire the charming Medieval city of St Jean.

Getting to St. Jean Port de Pied

April 27, 2015

"The Basics" - getting to St. Jean for the start.

Atlanta --> Miami --> Madrid --> Pamplona --> St. Jean Port De Pied (arr 6:30 pm)

Left Atlanta at 6:45 pm and everything went smoothly, arriving in Pamplona at 5:30 pm the next day. We were really tired at that point. Stepped right into a taxi for the 1 hour "flight" over the mountains and winding hairpin curves at breakneck speed. I had been forewarned about the taxi ride, and definitely was not disappointed. Our taxi driver spoke very little English, but gregariously engaged in conversation, pointing out highlights and telling us about the area - I think. It was a beautiful evening and we were able to just drink in the views along the way. I was impressed by how lush and green everything was. Temperatures in the 70's. Perfect. 

Donna had made a reservation at Hotel Ramuntcho, a quaint little hotel next to the street leading out of town that starts the Camino. We perked up enough to walk to the Pilgrim's office and buy our "credentials". This is essentially your passport as a pilgrim on the Camino. At each official stop, it is stamped to show that you completed that phase. Donna got me a scallop shell for my backpack. The symbol of the Camino. 

We also got directions to the start of the walk out of St. Jean so we would not get lost in the morning, and checked it out. 

Next, we scoped out a lovely little French restaurant for dinner. Ate in a quiet courtyard, and had the pilgrim's menu of roasted chicken, vegetables and salad, with an apple crumb cake for dessert. It was superb. The temperature was mild and sunny, clear skies at 8 pm. At pretty much every restaurant along the way, they offer a pilgrim's menu of some sort. 

Returned to the hotel totally exhausted, but extremely satisfied, and excited about getting started tomorrow. Briefly Skyed with Mom, George and LaDonna, to let them know we arrived safely. 

Camino de Santiago Route Map

CAMINO DE SANTIAGO ROUTE MAP

The French Way is our proposed route from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago. We hope to complete the 480 mile trek in 35 or less days. 

The French Way (Galician: Camiño Francés, Spanish: Camino Francés) is the most popular of the routes of the Way of St. James (Spanish: Camino de Santiago), the ancient pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain. It runs from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port on the French side of the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles on the Spanish side and then another 780km on to Santiago de Compostela through the major cities of Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos and León. A typical walk on the Camino Francés takes at least four weeks, allowing for one or two rest days on the way. Some travel the Camino on bicycle or on horseback.  [ref: Wikipedia]

A New Adventure - Hiking the Camino de Santiago

On April 26, 2015, my sister, Donna, and I will embark on a 500 mile pilgrimage from St. Jean Pied De Port, France to Santiago, Spain. Known as the Camino de Santiago, or "The Way of St. James," this ancient route has attracted pilgrims of all backgrounds and motivations for years. For me, it is a true spiritual pilgrimage and adventure of epic proportions - and solidification of the strong bond I already share with my sister.

For me, Donna, this is a chance to re-gain my inner joy through better health and a chance to spend time with my best human friend. (Notwithstanding that Callie and Max will be with me on every step of The Way).

We invite you to share the journey with us.

Buen Camino!

Kim & Donna Basinger