April 30, 2015 - Day 5 Puente la Reina --> Estella 22 K

April 30, 2015 - Day 5  Puente la Reina --> Estella 22 K

Slept very soundly in my loft bed, but it was quite cold when I woke. In the 40's. Got dressed and headed over to yet another wonderful meal at Hotel Jakue. We checked out and were on the road by 8:15 am, planning to meet up with Steve and Leon around 8:30 am near their hotel. However, we never saw their hotel, and crossed the ancient bridge out of town over the Argo River at about 8:30 am. So, I texted Leon to let him know, and hoped we would run across them sometime later. 

This was one of the best days. Perfect weather - sunny, blue skies with the temp reaching the low 70's. Stunning views of the lush, green fields along well-maintained paths, then interspersed with some rather steep inclines. However, what I noticed was that we seem to be turning another corner somewhat. Even though our legs are still tired, we are getting stronger on the climbs. And Donna is making the most noticeable improvement. Getting stronger and stronger. She is almost right with me most of the times on the straight and narrow paths, and getting up the hills and inclines much faster. 

We hiked through several beautiful little towns - all with very steep, narrow roads. Donna and I stopped in Cirauqui for a late morning Cafe con Leche and omelet sandwich. As we headed out of town, this Spanish gentleman kept trying to tell us something about taking a picture. He was very insistent that we not miss it, although I had no idea what he was saying. Then, there it was! Out in the distance spread across a hill was the map of the world made of tires and some sort of plants. Again, a scene from the movie as I recall - or from some other documentary I have seen. It took my breath away.

We continued on. Congratulating ourselves on how much we are improving. Not perfect, and certainly having to work hard, but staying with it and not whining too much. Up and down hills and valleys and gulches. Up and down. Another turning point - we stripped to shorts and T-shirts. Finally, around noon, we were walking through another small, ancient town, when I noticed a vending machine inside a garage and peered in - to my surprise, Steve and Leon were sitting at this little table drinking a coke. Apparently, they had passed us when we stopped to eat earlier, and we were now catching up to them again. We visited a bit about our adventures the night before, then hit the road together again for the final 10-12 K to Estella. Met a nice lady from Australia. We have also started seeing some of the same folks over and over again. In particular, there is this group of about 10 women from a South African hiking club that I have started to get to know. Neat ladies. 

Alas, at about the magic 5 mile mark from Estella, we were all struck again with a case of "Pamplona legs." Everyone gets quiet and starts shuffling. When we finally reached Estella, Donna and I had another 10-15 minutes to our B&B. And Donna started realizing that she was getting some blisters to compliment her "Pamplona legs." Add to that, we just hit the wall and were exhausted. Our B&B hosts were extremely friendly and helpful, and tried to recommend some places for dinner, all of which required "only 10 minutes or so" to walk. We retreated to our room...I started looking for places to stay the next few days, having learned that tomorrow begins a holiday weekend and there are "few rooms available in the inns.." Which might mean pilgrim albergues..which means sleeping in my clothes since I sent my sleeping bag home. It was at this point that Mom & George skyped us. We relayed how exhausted we were and how hard the Camino really is - much more difficult than the movie would lead you to believe. And Donna got some sympathy miles out of her newly forming blisters. I think Mom was a little in shock at the sight of us. She said she got a big kick out of one of my earlier comments about not feeling particularly "spiritual" - it has mostly been survival mode to this point, with some gradual improvements along the way. 

We did eventually venture out and found a neat Diner where we could get some real food. That has improved our outlook immensely. Plus, our B&B hostess is a nurse and offered to treat Donna's blisters. The kindness of strangers. This Camino experience has been a little on the ups and downs. It is weird how you will be feeling pretty good, then all of sudden you will get hit with "Pamplona legs" and exhaustion, only to be followed by a revival of sorts. Something like real life.

Tomorrow, we head over some more inclines to Los Arcos.  We plan to stay at a little albergue there. 

Before I sign off, I have to tell you the highlight of the day. About mid-afternoon, my sister beamed at me and said very sincerely, "I am so glad you got me to do this,"