August 12, 2013 Petoskey --> Traverse City, MI - 65 miles
We decided to push ahead toward Traverse City since there were not many motel options at the small towns along the way. Fortunately, the Little Traverse Wheelway bike trail ran the first 15 miles or so to Charlevoix, MI. This is a beautifully paved bike path that runs through many shaded tree-lined areas and fields of wild flowers. Occasionally, there are breakthroughs with stunning views of Lake Michigan. At points where the bike path crosses streets, there are often beautifully manicured flower beds. We could not have asked for more perfect weather - blue skies and moderate temperature.
We cruised along at a leisurely 8-10 mph, stopping frequently to take pictures. At one point along the way, there was an apple tree right next to the bike path. I stopped to pick a few apples and Randy snapped a picture.
The path ended in Charlevoix, a beautiful lakeside town bustling full of tourists. There was one tree-lined street leading into town with the most gorgeous large old homes situated right on the water, many of which sported large wrap-around porches. The lawns were immaculate with large flower beds in full bloom. For the last 1/2 mile or so of the road leading into and out of Charlevoix, the sidewalks on both sides of the road were bordered with a solid line of colorful pansies. The feel was festive.
Alas, the scenery and festive feel ended quite abruptly as we followed Hwy 31 S towards Traverse City. While the shoulder was adequate and the road conditions were okay, we started running into a series of moderate headwinds and rolling hills that slowed our progress somewhat. Plus, no more stunning scenery. We trudged along a good 20 miles or so and were starting to wear down, so found a little cafe near Torch Lake to re-fuel for the remaining 20-30 miles. The waitress was friendly and bustling around at warp speed, but it soon became apparent that she was not that efficient despite all the motion. We had to constantly repeat things, and when it became time to leave we asked that she divide the ticket so we could pay for our meals separately. When she came back she had divided the ticket literally in half, rather than according to what we had ordered. As if we weren't able to divide by two. The look on Randy's face was priceless. There is another story in connection with this lunch that I will remember forever, but will not re-count here. Something to do with apple pie a la mode. Let's just say Randy and I will be laughing about that story and its lesson for me the remainder of the Tour of the Leaves ride.
We continued on towards Traverse City. Rode up and down hills, had a few little tailwinds along the way that were appreciated, starting passing by many orchard farms and fruit stands.
Then I saw one of the most incredible sights I have ever seen anywhere in all my travels- acres and acres and acres of sunflowers in full bloom as far as you could see. All sizes of sunflowers densely packed together, with the largest size bigger than my head. There is no way to begin to describe the joy and wonder I felt looking at those sunflowers. The sunflower is my favorite flower anyway, and this just blew me away. I think even Randy was a little in awe. I told Randy "this is a sign." Of what, I don't know - it just felt so special. Made me feel special. My own very special blessing. I'll never forget it.
After tearing myself away from the sunflowers, we continued on to Acme, where we stopped at the McDonalds to use the wi-fi to locate a place to stay for the night. It took some effort, but we finally found a Motel 6 near Traverse City that was more reasonable than most motels in the area. There was another paved bike trail called the TART Trail that would take us the remaining 3 miles or so to the motel. As we were floundering about a little looking for the trailhead, we pulled over into a parking lot and started pulling out our phones with the google maps. A man pulled in behind and asked if we were looking for the trail. He enthusiastically directed us across the street and behind some trees where we could access the trail. Started telling us about some of his own touring experiences and seemed genuinely blessed to have the opportunity to help us out. We thanked him and crossed the busy highway to access the trail. As we reached the other side, another man came up and asked if we were looking for the trail. He threw in his two cents and we finally actually got on the trail. More examples of the kindness of strangers we often encounter during these rides. People really do love to be helpful.
We arrived at the Motel 6 and gratefully checked in around 6 pm or so. I was really tired, and am still looking for a good half day or so to just rest somewhere and do nothing. Plus, the weather forecast for Tuesday is 20-30 mile gusty winds and possible thunder storms in the afternoon. Randy and I will meet later and decide on a plan of action for tomorrow.
