May 18, 2015 Day 23 - Astorga --> Rabanal Del Camino - 20.6 K
Left the hotel in Astorga at approximately 7:15 am for a relatively short 13 mile day to Rabanal. Another clear bright blue sky. Cool temps.
We wound through town past the Cathedral, then descended out into the countryside. The path was a slight incline up to the foothills of the mountains we had been seeing in the distance. Ran into Matthew from Austin, TX - hadn't seen him in a few days and we got caught up.
After the extra long day yesterday, Donna indicated that she was really tired. Just didn't have much energy. I felt pretty good energy-wise, but was having pain in my left foot on the top of the foot and under the medial arch. We soldiered on to Ganso, where we stopped for hot tea and watermelon - a real treat. Thus fortified, we trudged on the last 5 K to Rabanal. At the very end, the path through the woods took on a steep rocky incline, then leveled out along a fence where pilgrims have attached various crude crosses.
The paved road into Rabanal was a very steep incline. At the entrance was a man dressed like a medieval falconer with a bird named Yuly that would pose with you for pictures. Donna perked up and was delighted with the opportunity. I kinda enjoyed it as well.
We checked in to the Hostal Refugio next to the beautiful Benedictine monastery church before 1 pm, so had plenty of time to bathe, wash clothes, and eat lunch. This is a charming little hotel with a lot of character. We had the pilgrim's menu for lunch - green beans, roasted chicken in a scrumptuous sauce, and ice cream for dessert. The food was outstanding. Returned to the room to read Steve's book, nap and prop up my foot for the remainder of the afternoon.
At about 6:00 pm, I walked over and checked out the church. It is my favorite so far - a very small and intimate chapel with stone walls and wooden benches. Very simple and serene. I stayed a while and just sat in silence.
Since we had a big lunch, neither of us was all that hungry, so we ate a snack in the room and headed to the bar for tea and a cafe con leche. We sat on bar stools amongst the drinkers as the piped in music played a rather chipper version of "Sweet Hour of Prayer", one of my grandmother's all time favorites. That segued into Simon and Garfunkel's "Sounds of Silence." About that time a bunch of pilgrims that we had dinner with the other night in Villar Mazarife came in and we all caught up on the last few days.
All in all a good day, and some more time to rest and re-group. We will need all the help we can get tomorrow as we climb to La Cruz de Ferro - one of the most famous points on the Camino, and next to the highest point of the Camino. Tomorrow will also be a challenge since it is 25.6 K (approx. 16 miles), a fairly lengthy walk. I just pray that the feet hold up.
As I prepare for bed and look out the window, I am watching a horse and a couple of cats interact with each other - obviously friends. Such simple pleasures.
Buen Camino!
Kim
