May 17, 2015 Day 22 - Villar Mazarife --> Astorga - 31.2 K
Yesterday was a significant turning point for me on this journey. Today, for the first time, this became Donna's and my Camino. Not the Camino of "The Way", or the Camino of other friends and acquaintances that have walked previously, or the Camino for friends and family back home who are participating vicariously. Our Camino. Up to yesterday, I had struggled with feeling distracted to the point I was having trouble being present in the moment. Distracted by all the prep for the walk, the physical challenge of the first days and weeks, communications from various aspects of my "normal" life back home, the change in my daily routine of study and prayer that I rely upon to keep me centered, etc. Today, I feel as though I have moved to another level physically. My legs feel strong, and still no blisters (knock on wood). Although my feet still hurt at the end of the day, I believe even that is improving. Or, at least, I am becoming more used to it. I no longer wonder if I will make it.
Yesterday was the first time I was able to just sit and relax with some uplifting readings given to me by my friend Steve. Brought me back to my center, and for the first time I was able to just let everything go and feel calm. I felt grateful and a joy. It also helped that I was able to eat healthy meals throughout the day.
Breakfast at the albergue this morning was fabulous. Granola type cereal, good toast, and terrific coffee. The sun was still rising as Donna and I started walking at approximately 7:00 am.
The first part of today's walk continued along a flat road with fields lining both sides. For the first time, I allowed myself to listen to the soundtrack from "The Way" - wonderful soul uplifting music (mostly instrumental) that is perfect to walk or bicycle to. I don't usually listen to music as I prefer to concentrate on the sights and sounds. However, the music got me tuned in to the surroundings and I found myself noticing all sorts of little things - individual flowers, the birds, a snail crawling across the road, the emerging mountains in the distance. I was overwhelmed with gratitude and a release of all the worries and anxiety I have felt the past three weeks. It made me cry. I came up on my sister, and told her how I was feeling. That I felt an almost palpable shift to what is now our Camino - not someone else's. That it dawned on me that we have been together almost constantly for three weeks now and I still love her and am glad to be on this adventure with her. That has been the primary goal for both of us from the start - to walk the Camino together. She agreed that she felt a change today as well. That we can finally enjoy the walk, not just endure the physical challenge and constantly be distracted by looking for the next hostal or meal.
One of the highlights of the day was Hospital De Orbigo - a beautiful town with cobblestone streets and an old Romanesque bridge across the river. At the end of town, we elected the scenic option to Astorga, adding an additional 1K to the day's total. Congratulated ourselves on reaching the point that we would actually make that choice, knowing the feet would hurt at the end of the day. Eventually, the terrain began changing and we started a subtle climb. The mountains in the distance gave promise to more intense climbing to come in the next few days.
We stopped in Santibanez de Valdeiglesia for lunch. As we were leaving town and heading down the street, this little old Spanish woman yelled at us while pointing - we were going in the wrong direction and off the Camino. She set us straight, and we thanked her as she laughed. I asked for her picture, but she was too embarrassed and tried to hide. The kindness of strangers - again.
We trudged along the last 10 K uphill and through fields and woods. We finally came to a point where the city of Astorga was spread out before us with snow capped mountains in the distance. On we walked. It took probably another 45 minutes through the outskirts of town and then up a last steep hill to arrive at the city center and our hotel. We were beat, but mostly our feet were killing us. Our hotel was a godsend. Right on the square, and especially caters to pilgrims walking the Camino. The room was spacious and beautiful, and a huge soaking tub to boot. Complimentary drinks in the mini fridge. And a pilgrim's menu served right there throughout the day so we didn't have to eat late - no hunting or foraging for food. We thought we had died and gone to heaven. For dinner, we had spaghetti bolognese, stewed beef, and a sort of chocolate tiramisu type dessert.
While waiting to be served dinner, I noticed the team of women bikers we saw yesterday on the Camino, and went over to ask questions. Turns out they are a group of 5 women from Australia riding from Leon to Santiago to raise funds for "Its Not Ok", a non-profit that addresses human trafficking in Asia. I spoke with the founder, Leigh, and got more information. They also have a USA arm of the organization. The website is itsnotok.com. I hope to see them again during the walk.
Donna returned to the room and I walked around a little (a very little) to at least get a look at the cathedral before we head out tomorrow. While the cathedral is quite impressive, is is more or less sandwiched between buildings and on a very small street. Hard to get a good picture. Returned to the room and was ready to rest for the evening after skyping with Mom - today was her 83rd birthday. She looked great and we had a nice visit.
Tomorrow we hike to Rabanal del Camino - the highest point on the Camino. It is only 20.6 K (12.8 miles). However, coming off almost 20 miles today, and the fact that there will likely be a lot of climbing, it could be a hard day. The good news is that the hotel serves a breakfast buffet early at 6:30 am, so we should at least be adequately fueled and off to an early start. We also were able to book a room for tomorrow night, so won't be stressing over that.
Been Camino!
Kim
