Today was s short walk (only 12 miles) in preparation for a 19 mile hike the next day. We tried to get some breakfast on the way but very little was open. Even though it was a short walk today, I think Kim and I felt the effects of low energy from lack of food. The Camino split with two options ending in different towns and the signs were very confusing. Luckily Kim and I figured it out without going off course too many steps . We heard a pilgrim who wasn't as lucky describe her day of trying to find her way back - she was close to tears from the frustration.
The land is beginning to look more like Texas but in the distance are mountains with snow.
Our phone call for reservations worked again and the accommodations are clean and pleasant - although 50 euros seems a little high.
Hopefully we can re-energize for the longest hike to date which will take us to Astorga.
Sent from my iPhone
Saturday, May 16, 2015
Donna - May 15, 2015 - Mansilla --> Leon - 18K bus ride
Once agIn Kim and I found a Real gem in the Aubergue de Camino in Mansilla. The host bent over backwards to make us feel welcome and the room was probably our favorite so far.
After a brief rest and exploration of the town, we were again fortunate to share our evening meal with Bill from Toronto who was on his 3rd Camino. We had some good conversation and advice to end a perfect day.
Kim and I decided that since we didn't have any rest days due to the limitation of my vacation time available and we were given permission by our guide book that we weren't cheating as real pilgrims, we decided to take the bus from Mansilla (which is like a suburb of Leon) to Leon to save our legs for sightseeing the city. We were astounded that the bus fare was only 1.6 euro (about the same as a cup of tea).
We didn't have trouble finding our hotel but unfortunately met with ungracious hostesses. Fortunately this has been a rare occurrence. The room itself was nice with strong wifi but I wouldn't recommend this place to another perrogrino.
Kim and I did a little people watching near the Leon cathedral as well as took the audio tour of the church. We also took a little train car ride that took us to the highlights of Leon with a recorded explanation in multiple languages - but the English version cut off right at the middle of the explanation so we still didn't know what we were looking at until checking in the guide book later - I give them a D and wouldn't recommend.
Once again Kim and I were running on empty and spent a lot of time searching for food. If you can live off ice cream, cake and sweets - no problem but for veggies and something more nourishing it is a treasure hunt. Finally we found some spaghetti and devoured our plates.
I finally decided to rest at the hotel to give my residual blisters some quality rest and it is paying off. Kim found some food at a Mel's diner and kindly returned to the hotel with a salad for me. She earned a gold star for all her efforts.
Sent from my iPhone
After a brief rest and exploration of the town, we were again fortunate to share our evening meal with Bill from Toronto who was on his 3rd Camino. We had some good conversation and advice to end a perfect day.
Kim and I decided that since we didn't have any rest days due to the limitation of my vacation time available and we were given permission by our guide book that we weren't cheating as real pilgrims, we decided to take the bus from Mansilla (which is like a suburb of Leon) to Leon to save our legs for sightseeing the city. We were astounded that the bus fare was only 1.6 euro (about the same as a cup of tea).
We didn't have trouble finding our hotel but unfortunately met with ungracious hostesses. Fortunately this has been a rare occurrence. The room itself was nice with strong wifi but I wouldn't recommend this place to another perrogrino.
Kim and I did a little people watching near the Leon cathedral as well as took the audio tour of the church. We also took a little train car ride that took us to the highlights of Leon with a recorded explanation in multiple languages - but the English version cut off right at the middle of the explanation so we still didn't know what we were looking at until checking in the guide book later - I give them a D and wouldn't recommend.
Once again Kim and I were running on empty and spent a lot of time searching for food. If you can live off ice cream, cake and sweets - no problem but for veggies and something more nourishing it is a treasure hunt. Finally we found some spaghetti and devoured our plates.
I finally decided to rest at the hotel to give my residual blisters some quality rest and it is paying off. Kim found some food at a Mel's diner and kindly returned to the hotel with a salad for me. She earned a gold star for all her efforts.
Sent from my iPhone
May 16, 2015 Day 21 - Leon --> Viilar de Mazarife - 21.8 K
May 16, 2015 Day 21 - Leon --> Villar Mazarife - 21.8K
Up and out by 6:45 am for an early start. Wound through Leon via the Camino, past the famous Parador Hotel (prominently displayed in "The Way"), and across the river. There were quite a few other pilgrims out for an early start. Nothing was open for breakfast yet, so planned to walk as far out of Leon as possible and stop at the first cafe that looked appealing.
The first hour or so was primarily along industrial looking roads and small urban buildings. Came across some more of those houses built into dirt hills.
We stopped for toast, croissant, tea and coffee, then continued on to La Virgen Del Camino, where there were two options - one to Villadangos Del Paramo and the other to Villar Mazarife. The problem was that there was no clear marking of the two ways. We started down one way, but it just didn't feel right, so re-traced our steps a couple of hundred feet, and veered off on a dirt path in faith that this was the right way. Fortunately, we were right. The rest of the hike was fairly uneventful for the next 3 hours or so to Villar Mazarife.
We checked into the Albergue San Antonio Padua, where we had reserved a private room. The albergue offers a variety of accommodations, from bunk beds in a dormitory like room to private rooms with baths. Our room was lovely and very comfortable. The best part was that we arrived early enough at 12:30 pm that we could actually take the afternoon to further rest up for the long hike to Astorga tomorrow. The albergue has a beautiful front lawn where the pilgrims could hang out - with near perfect temperatures and a clear, blue sky, everyone was in high spirits.
We walked into town and found a grocery store to buy some snacks for tomorrow's hike. Then headed to the other albergue in town for vegetable stew for lunch. We were ecstatic to get real food for lunch, and returned to our room for a hot shower and nap. Then sat out on the lush front lawn for a couple of hours. I began reading a book that Steve gave me as a goodbye present called "My Other Self - Conversations with Christ on Living Your Faith". I have had little time for my regular morning studies, and have really missed that. It felt like a real treat to have a few hours to just relax with this reading. Made me realize that I have missed walking with Steve and Leon, especially our talks.
The definite highlight of the day was dinner at our albergue. The large lovely dining room was filled with hungry pilgrims. To our delight, dinner was served at 7:00 pm. A beautiful mixed salad, followed by hot pumpkin soup to die for, and then vegetable piella for the main dish. Plenty of good wine and bread. All topped off by a strawberry crepe with whipped cream. We had several delightful dinner partners surrounding us and the conversation was interesting and entertaining. Two thumbs up on every aspect of the meal! And after the meal, only a few steps to our comfortable room.
Tomorrow we walk almost 19 miles to Astorga - one of the longest days of the Camino. Luckily, we are rested and well-fueled for the effort. Also, we have booked a lovely room to be waiting for us on the other end. All I need at this point is a good nights rest - haven't slept that well the past couple of nights. After a very good day here, I have high hopes.
Buen Camino!
Kim
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