April 28, 2015 - Day 3
Zubiri --> Pamplona - 23 k
Spent a somewhat sleepless night at the albergue - the lady in the bunk on the right snored all night long. A few others joined in on occasion, but she was most immediate. The albergue where we stayed was very nice. Two large rooms, one with probably 16-20 beds and the smaller room with about 10-12 beds. The bathroom and showers were very clean. However, takes a little getting used to for us older spoiled Americans who aren't used to co-ed sleeping/shower facilities. And snoring strangers. I can vouch for the fact that ear plugs generally are not effective. This albergue also provided laundry services for 6 euros, which we took advantage of after traipsing through the rain and mud. Breakfast is provided as part of the 16 euro cost, and was quite nice. Breads and very good cereal. The one consistent throughout the trip is fabulous strong coffee with milk.
Steve and Leon joined us as we were completing breakfast, and we planned for the day's walk to Pamplona. Steve is having some real issues with sore and blistered feet, as well as a sinus infection. Leon's knees are very achy. All four of us are generally sore all over, especially the legs and shoulders from the backpack straps. However, what is surprising is how much better you are the next day. You go to bed worrying whether you will be able to walk another 15-20 miles the next day, and wake up surprisingly revived - at least to start with.
We headed out about 8:30 am in cool, but not cold, temps. Some intermittent rain drops to start, but looking to clear up through the morning to sunshine by the time we arrive in Pamplona. The path today was quite varied, intermingling between small one lane roads, muddy hillside inclines and descents, grassy paths along streams and through wooded areas. There were several fairly steep inclines, but fewer in number and shorter in duration. There were also many more vendors along the road, offering drinks and snacks.
The highlights of the walk today were the animals. Several pastures of horses, all with new babies. One group of horses had a particularly unusual set of markings. Almost like a zerbra-ish smaller horse look. We also came close to a field of "baaing" sheep that were so cute. Another highlight was a black cat mischievously peering through the weeds of a fenced in backyard. He stared confidently directly into your eyes, as if connecting on some soul level. My favorite.
After approximately 10 miles or so, I started feeling the walk in my legs more and more. By the time we were 5 miles out from Pamplona, I was downright hurting and getting stiffer and stiffer. I noticed that Donna, Steve and Leon were also walking a little more stiffly, and none of us were talking. I think it safe to say that we were sort of shuffling in pain and exhaustion as we crossed the ancient bridge into Pamplona. Then began the task of locating the hotel. After some stops and starts, we finally ended up at the Hotel Yodi, near the plaza.
Hotel Yodi was a real haven. A lovely room with a tub to soak in. And re-group a little. Donna and I decided to lighten our loads by sending some stuff home, most notably the sleeping bags and some various other assorted items. We were fortunate to be assisted in this by a wonderful woman named Ursala, introduced to us by Steve and Leon. Ursala was the Spanish contact who set up their itinerary for the Camino. She took our stuff with her to mail to Donna's, and thus made our day. Ursala also helped us locate a restaurant that would serve early (6:30-ish or 7 pm), and that offered food we relished, I.e. more "normal" food for us like veggies, pasta, meat. We happily shuffled back to the hotel after dinner to relax for the evening and contemplate the next day's walk.
I have to say that so far the Camino has been more of a survival test - mainly physical - and less of the personal spiritual encounter I had hoped for. When you hurt and are occupied with the thought of finding a place to rest and something to eat as your primary focus, it tends to distract you from appreciating the beauty of nature as much as you might otherwise. Not to say there isn't much beauty and some stunning scenery. I am hopeful as our physical conditioning improves we will relax into a slower paced rhythm and easier existence. Become a little more pilgrim like and less modern. At least, that is my goal.
