May 13, 2015 Day 18 - Terradillos Los Templarios --> Calzadilla de Los Hermanillas - 24.5K
Got up and out by 7:00 am. We were trying to beat the heat (supposed to be around 80 degrees), plus a pretty long day today.
We met our first challenge right off the bat. Not clear whether to continue down a path that ran alongside a rather busy highway, or veer left onto a dirt road. Since there appeared to be a really old Camino stone marker towards the highway side, we elected that route. However, I soon noticed pilgrims in the distance off to the left on what seemed one of those broad white dirt pathways - a lot of pilgrims - and I didn't see any pilgrims on our path. While I felt that the path we were on would eventually dovetail with what was seeming more and more the "real" pilgrim path, I really wanted to get back on the other sure path and began looking for ways to cross the plowed fields and grass fields that separated us. I saw what I thought might be a road and headed that way. But turned out not to be a road, but a hike down the side of a little hill, followed by "wading" through a field of waist-high grass, followed by a hike through a plowed up dirt field, then crossing a little stream and another hike through another grass field to finally wind up on the pilgrim path. It was a bit of a hike and not real easy, and I could feel the daggers in my back coming from my sister - she was not happy with me. However, I was glad to be back on the pilgrim path, and we trundled on, at least knowing we were on the right path.
Hiked through several small towns. At one, we saw what appeared to be houses built into the side of a hill, with chimneys arising out of the top of the hill. Would have loved to have seen the inside of those dwellings. Also, ran into Sheila once again - she apparently had passed us while we were lost and hiking the fields. We visited a bit, then headed on.
As we approached Sahagun, we came across a couple of statues framing what looked like an entrance. Donna thinks the translation may have said we were at the halfway point of the Camino. We had heard that we would pass the halfway point today, so we choose to believe this was it.
Sahagun looked like a pretty interesting town. Sheila was staying there to take in the architecture. As we passed through the center, I heard a shout and Chris ran over from a cafe. She was having more leg problems and just fatigued generally, so decided to get a room in Sahagun to rest today, and plans to take the bus to Leon tomorrow to give her body a chance to rest.
Donna and I plodded on towards Calzada de Coto, which appeared from the map to be a town of at least a size that we should be able to find something to eat for lunch before the final 9K leg of the day. To our dismay, there was nothing more than a little general store. I went in and got some bread, cheese, chips and apples in case no other options appeared. Which they did not. We stopped on a bench just outside of town and had our improvised lunch. It was warm and very gusty.
The final 8.7 K was hot, dry and dusty. Donna was hurting and taking it step by step. We did not see any other pilgrims along the way, and assume most took an alternative route to Bercianos del Real Camino. On and on and on - looked pretty dry and desolate. Finally, we came to Calzadilla de Los Hermaniilos, and Albergue Via Trajana, where we had booked a room. Gwen was already there, sitting on the porch waiting to order lunch, and she looked miserable. She had left at 6:00 am and pretty much hiked alone all day. She did not look happy. However, the mood of the group shifted dramatically as we had some real food - Gwen and Donna had lamb stew and I had roast chicken. Delicious.
Spent the rest of the afternoon getting cleaned up and organized for tomorrow. The plan is to walk 24.5 K to Mansilla De Las Mulas, where we have booked a room at Albergue del Camino. The weather is supposed to drop tonight with a high in the low 60's tomorrow. Luckily, no rain in the forecast.
This evening I visited with the other pilgrims staying here, and tried to help them find places to stay tomorrow night and in Leon for Friday. Because of the scarcity of rooms in Mansilla, I believe they have decided to stop short of Mansilla, then push a longer day to Leon on Friday. Hopefully, we will see them again. Donna and I have gotten quite fond of Gwen.
Buen Camino!
