September 6, 2013 Basin Harbor --> Bethel, VT - 65 miles
Said goodbye to Diane and headed out for the 6 mile ride to Vergennes, where I planned to stop for a good breakfast to fuel my ride through the steepest mountain climbs so far. It was a beautiful day, and the temperature was the coolest to date - probably in the mid 40's to start. The early morning sun shined and illuminated the dew on the fields. I couldn't help but feel renewed and hopeful at the start of a new day. I passed by a pasture of cows I had noticed the day before and, in particular, a little red calf that had the cutest tuft of white fur lining his spine. I called out and we definitely shared a connection as he stared into my eyes.
Also saw many sunflowers this morning in people's yards, or along fields. Made me happy.
I had breakfast in Vergennes at Three Square Meals - the same restaurant where Diane and I had lunch yesterday. The food there is fabulous, and it ranks right up there in the top 5 eating establishments on the bike ride in both the breakfast and lunch categories. It also ranks right up there in terms of service and efficiency. Really, really like this cafe. I had a traditional breakfast of eggs, bacon, potatoes and toast with good strong coffee.
I had my maps spread out in front of me and, as I was finishing breakfast, a man walked over and handed me a gadget he had invented called Jogalite Snapalite and told me to have a good trip. He walked off before I barely had a chance to say hello or ask any questions. I looked at the Snapalite, and it is an amazing invention. Essentially a bright red light that flashes in multiple modes. That part is not that unusual and is similar to my red flashing tail light. What makes it unique is the ease with which it can be attached directly onto your clothes, helmet, handlebars, etc. Really neat. I asked one of the people working at the restaurant who this guy was and where I could find him so I could thank him and ask more questions. They directed me to an office across the street. I was greeted by a cute dog named Ella, who barked a warning to her owner, Scott Hardy, President of Linckia. We chatted a few minutes about his invention and Scott gave me a demonstration of how the light attaches. Loved it. Scott's website is www.linckia.com. Attached is a picture of Ella and Scott.
I took off toward Middlebury along increasingly steep rolling hills. A warmup and harbinger of the mountains to come later. The route I took avoided the main roads and put me on country roads. Green, lush fields and beautiful views. More apple orchards with trees loaded down with apples - I stopped and picked a few contraband apples. Along the side of the road at one point, I saw a sign nailed to a tree that said, "Dare to try something new." Hm...the theme of my life the last couple of years. The resulting adventures have been amazing.
As I approached Middlebury, I met two local couples on bicycles coming the other way. They were riding over to Vergennes to have lunch at The Three Squares. We chatted for a while and I learned that they are members of Warm Showers, an organization of members with an interest in biking. Members provide a place to stay for other members on tour, and will often even provide a meal. A good way to network and help keep expenses down. My experience with Warm Showers in the past has been positive. These folks also gave me helpful information on the mountain passes I was about to encounter and the best route to Bethel, my destination town for the day. The most helpful thing I learned was that the first 200-300 yards out of East Middlebury was the steepest and hardest climb of the day. This proved helpful mentally. The guy was right. This was a brutal climb, and at various points I got off and pushed to give my legs a rest. The next 10-15 miles through the Green Mountain National Forest was a series of long steep climbs and rolling hills. Gorgeous vistas and lush green fields alongside. I believe at the highest point the elevation was around 3200 feet. Then, a 2 mile descent at 12% grade into the town of Hancock. Unfortunately, I couldn't really let go and had to be more vigilant on this downhill coast because the roads were not in the best condition and in need of repair in many spots. It was a pretty bumpy ride. Still, at least I wasn't going uphill anymore.
The last 20 miles to Bethel were more or less a return to the rolling hills scenario. However, by this time I had ridden 40 miles or so and my legs and knees were feeling it. Finally reached Bethel around 5:00 pm or so and checked in to The Nestled Inn, a little B & B next to town. Gratefully soaked in a hot tub, then walked into town for some pasta and ice cream before returning to my room for the night.
Tomorrow looks like more of the same and, quite frankly, I am a little concerned about the steep mountain pass because my legs are tired from yesterday. But, I always seem to get through. I will likely pass over into New Hampshire tomorrow.
I have loved every minute I have been in Vermont - reminds me of how I felt about Oregon last year on the cross-country ride. The stunning vistas and views, the cool air, the vastness, and the people. The main difference is that in Oregon the terrain was more rugged and brown in places leading up to and surrounding the mountains beyond Eugene. In Vermont, the operative word really is "green". I would love to return and ride here again.
