April 27, 2015 - Day 2

April 27, 2015 - Day 2

Roncevalles --> Zubiri - 22 k

It poured rain all night long. Surprisingly, neither Donna nor I slept that soundly. 

We had agreed to meet up with our Camino brothers, Steve and Leon at 8:30 am, to co-ordinate    the day's hike. Since breakfast was a roll and coffee at our place, Donna and I headed out early before our Camino brothers thinking we would be stopping for breakfast #2 along the way and they would catch up. It was pouring down rain and in the 40's as we started out. I took a picture of a little church, and the sign for Santiago - 790 k away. Our goal. 

We trudged along in the rain along muddy, wet trails for an hour or so. A couple little inclines, but nothing like the first day. Around 10:00 am, Donna and I stopped for a potato galette looking breakfast item and a strong cup of coffee. I am still a little discombobulated by the language and money situation. Mostly I point at pictures or words I think I recognize as something I want to eat. Seems to work out ok so far. When Donna and I stopped for breakfast, we were pretty much drenched. As we left the breakfast cafe, Steve and Leon just happened to come up at that very moment - perfect timing! So, we resumed the Camino adventure together. We have all agreed that our meeting on the Camino is no co-incidence and we consider ourselves each others' guardian angels. 

Today, our legs felt amazingly good to start with, but we all definitely lost steam along the way. Donna and Leon walked together most of the day, and Steve and I walked together. We had the best conversations regarding life stories and, in particular, our spiritual journeys and beliefs. I found in Steve a real kindred spirit. And we agreed that we were put on the hike together for some very specific purposes. Fun stuff.

The last couple of hours were nothing short of excruciating - all four of us were stiff, sore and somewhat glazed over. As we crossed the highway at one point, a car turned around and came back to park next to us. A young woman carrying a box enthusiastically approached and told us they had just watched the movie and what we were doing was amazing - she said they had just come from Pamplona and handed over the box, which had still-warm pastries inside for us. The most delicious chocolate mini-croissant that just melted in your mouth. The thoughtfulness of these strangers made our day.

The four of us sort of stumbled into Zubiri on extremely tired legs at approx 3:30 pm. I keep taking comfort in the fact that the hardest physical legs of the Camino are supposedly over.

We are staying tonight in our first albergue. Donna and I are in a room with 5-6 other pilgrims, sharing communal bath facilitates. A real Camino experience. We ate an early lasagna dinner with more of that really good coffee across the street. Visited with Steve and Leon for a bit tonight, and I gave them tape,  vasoline and tiger balm for their ailments. 

Tomorrow we head to Pamplona - approx 22 k. We do not anticipate too many hills and inclines, bit are still a bit wary because our legs are really tired. Luckily, the weather forecast does not look like rain, but will be cool in the 40's. Donna and I went ahead and made a reservation at a small hotel for tomorrow. 

April 26, 2015 - Day 1

St. Jean, France --> Roncevalles, Spain -  25 k 

After a delightful breakfast at the hotel, we finally started our Camino at 8:30 am. 

Our goal to begin with was a "warmup" day of 8 kilometers (approx. 5 miles) to Orisson, where we had reservations to stay at a highly recommended hostel. After crossing the river in town, we started the incline out of town, a fairly steep incline on a road that went on for some time.  There were a number of other pilgrims that we would see throughout the day. Pretty little farms and houses along the way, with a view of the Pyrenees in the distance - the mountains we were going to be climbing up and over. 

Eventually, the paved road gave way to a sharply-inclined trail that continued up into the mountains. I was encouraged that my pre-hike training at the ravines of River Place Nature Trail seemed to prepare me fairly well for the long inclines. Although the forecast was for near 100% chance of rain, we lucked out and it was merely cloudy. However, visibility was good and we got a sense of the beautiful vistas. I had dressed in full rain gear, but quickly stripped to a T-shirt because I was sweating profusely up the hills. 

Donna and I proceeded at our own pace. Along the way, we met and chatted with several other pilgrims. It soon became apparent that Steve and Leon would be our companions for the day. They are from Indiana, and had just come from viewing the Shroud of Turin. They were convinced it was the real deal, and that made for one of many interesting conversations throughout the day. Steve and Leon met at their Catholic church several years ago. Since then, they have made numerous mission trips in several places around the world. Leon is a retired school mechanic, and has a wife and 5 children he is very proud of. Steve is a nurse. Donna and I felt an immediate connection with them, and we all looked after each other throughout the day.  

The general progression was that I would forge ahead up to a clearing and wait for everyone to catch up. Then we would do it again. After winding up along hairpin curves on the paved road, we eventually ventured out onto a dirt path that continued sharply up. We arrived at Orisson at approximately 11:30 am, and contemplated whether to continue on to Roncevalles, given that it was so early in the day, and we were enjoying the company of Steve and Leon.  I left the decision of whether to proceed to Donna, since it would be another 18 k, and not getting any easier. She voted to move on with Steve and Leon, and I cancelled the Orission reservation.      

We continued up steep, steep inclines for what seemed forever - intermingled with gusty winds. Although there were occasional rain drops, no major percipitation.  Continued on up and up the mountains. Legs screaming.  Finally, after what seemed hours, we entered into wooded areas at the top, and even began seeing some left over snow on the sides. Just when we started thinking we had reached the top where it leveled out, another series of climbs would begin. We started taking more and more frequent rest stops, as our legs were screaming. Then we finally did reach the top (1430 m) and the sharp descent began through forested trails for several miles. About 30 minutes from Roncevalles, it started raining. It all became just a little surreal as we just kept putting one foot ahead of the other down the mountain trail, which was beginning to get muddy. Meanwhile, I was praying that we would be able to find a room, since we did not have a reservation, and staying in a room full of pilgrims was not sounding appealing. 

We finally reached Roncevalles at about 5:45 pm, and the first hotel we checked was full. Donna had that glazed over look, meaning she needed food and soon, and I knew her legs were shot (as were everyone's) so I parked her on a bench while I went with Steve and Leon to see if there were any rooms at their hotel. No. Then checked the pilgrims albuguer, which did have some beds. On my way back to get Donna, I checked one last small hotel and, thankfully, they had a room with 2 beds and a private bath. The owner was very kind, and could tell I was a little frazzled, so he took a deep breath and told me (in Spanish, I think) to be calm - his casa was my casa. So, I got the room lined up, retrieved my sister and we settled in to what seemed like heaven to our tired, worn out bodies. Having revived sufficiently, we had a nice dinner at Hotel Roncevalles, steak, potatoes and salad, with that wonderful coffee. Steve and Leon joined us toward the end and we re-counted the challenges of the day. Steve bemoaned that his feet were a mess with blisters and such. I offered my leuka tape and vasoline for tomorrow. We agreed to meet at 8:30 am on Monday morning for the 22 k trek to Zibiri.

I have to say that today was one of the most physically challenging adventures I have encountered. The relief I felt when we finally got to Roncevalles and settled in was immense. I kept reminding myself that the first couple of days on the Camino are the hardest, and it will get easier...

Donna's "Getting to St. Jean"

Day 1

The trip from Atlanta to St Jean Pied de Porte was extremely smooth but quite a long day being in pretzel pose so we were glad to finally arrive at Hotel ratmanchu and to stretch out flat.

This hotel was central to everything and so we struck out to get our "credentials" and to get some food.   Our luck continued as we happen to select a wonderful restaurant with an outdoor courtyard and had our first pilgrim menu.  It was a fabulous salad, roast chicken. Potatoes and a dessert.  One of the things Kim and I are enjoying the most is the cafe au lait.

After feeling human again We struck out to find the start of the  Napoleon way and to admire the charming Medieval city of St Jean.

Getting to St. Jean Port de Pied

April 27, 2015

"The Basics" - getting to St. Jean for the start.

Atlanta --> Miami --> Madrid --> Pamplona --> St. Jean Port De Pied (arr 6:30 pm)

Left Atlanta at 6:45 pm and everything went smoothly, arriving in Pamplona at 5:30 pm the next day. We were really tired at that point. Stepped right into a taxi for the 1 hour "flight" over the mountains and winding hairpin curves at breakneck speed. I had been forewarned about the taxi ride, and definitely was not disappointed. Our taxi driver spoke very little English, but gregariously engaged in conversation, pointing out highlights and telling us about the area - I think. It was a beautiful evening and we were able to just drink in the views along the way. I was impressed by how lush and green everything was. Temperatures in the 70's. Perfect. 

Donna had made a reservation at Hotel Ramuntcho, a quaint little hotel next to the street leading out of town that starts the Camino. We perked up enough to walk to the Pilgrim's office and buy our "credentials". This is essentially your passport as a pilgrim on the Camino. At each official stop, it is stamped to show that you completed that phase. Donna got me a scallop shell for my backpack. The symbol of the Camino. 

We also got directions to the start of the walk out of St. Jean so we would not get lost in the morning, and checked it out. 

Next, we scoped out a lovely little French restaurant for dinner. Ate in a quiet courtyard, and had the pilgrim's menu of roasted chicken, vegetables and salad, with an apple crumb cake for dessert. It was superb. The temperature was mild and sunny, clear skies at 8 pm. At pretty much every restaurant along the way, they offer a pilgrim's menu of some sort. 

Returned to the hotel totally exhausted, but extremely satisfied, and excited about getting started tomorrow. Briefly Skyed with Mom, George and LaDonna, to let them know we arrived safely.