April 26, 2015 - Day 1

St. Jean, France --> Roncevalles, Spain -  25 k 

After a delightful breakfast at the hotel, we finally started our Camino at 8:30 am. 

Our goal to begin with was a "warmup" day of 8 kilometers (approx. 5 miles) to Orisson, where we had reservations to stay at a highly recommended hostel. After crossing the river in town, we started the incline out of town, a fairly steep incline on a road that went on for some time.  There were a number of other pilgrims that we would see throughout the day. Pretty little farms and houses along the way, with a view of the Pyrenees in the distance - the mountains we were going to be climbing up and over. 

Eventually, the paved road gave way to a sharply-inclined trail that continued up into the mountains. I was encouraged that my pre-hike training at the ravines of River Place Nature Trail seemed to prepare me fairly well for the long inclines. Although the forecast was for near 100% chance of rain, we lucked out and it was merely cloudy. However, visibility was good and we got a sense of the beautiful vistas. I had dressed in full rain gear, but quickly stripped to a T-shirt because I was sweating profusely up the hills. 

Donna and I proceeded at our own pace. Along the way, we met and chatted with several other pilgrims. It soon became apparent that Steve and Leon would be our companions for the day. They are from Indiana, and had just come from viewing the Shroud of Turin. They were convinced it was the real deal, and that made for one of many interesting conversations throughout the day. Steve and Leon met at their Catholic church several years ago. Since then, they have made numerous mission trips in several places around the world. Leon is a retired school mechanic, and has a wife and 5 children he is very proud of. Steve is a nurse. Donna and I felt an immediate connection with them, and we all looked after each other throughout the day.  

The general progression was that I would forge ahead up to a clearing and wait for everyone to catch up. Then we would do it again. After winding up along hairpin curves on the paved road, we eventually ventured out onto a dirt path that continued sharply up. We arrived at Orisson at approximately 11:30 am, and contemplated whether to continue on to Roncevalles, given that it was so early in the day, and we were enjoying the company of Steve and Leon.  I left the decision of whether to proceed to Donna, since it would be another 18 k, and not getting any easier. She voted to move on with Steve and Leon, and I cancelled the Orission reservation.      

We continued up steep, steep inclines for what seemed forever - intermingled with gusty winds. Although there were occasional rain drops, no major percipitation.  Continued on up and up the mountains. Legs screaming.  Finally, after what seemed hours, we entered into wooded areas at the top, and even began seeing some left over snow on the sides. Just when we started thinking we had reached the top where it leveled out, another series of climbs would begin. We started taking more and more frequent rest stops, as our legs were screaming. Then we finally did reach the top (1430 m) and the sharp descent began through forested trails for several miles. About 30 minutes from Roncevalles, it started raining. It all became just a little surreal as we just kept putting one foot ahead of the other down the mountain trail, which was beginning to get muddy. Meanwhile, I was praying that we would be able to find a room, since we did not have a reservation, and staying in a room full of pilgrims was not sounding appealing. 

We finally reached Roncevalles at about 5:45 pm, and the first hotel we checked was full. Donna had that glazed over look, meaning she needed food and soon, and I knew her legs were shot (as were everyone's) so I parked her on a bench while I went with Steve and Leon to see if there were any rooms at their hotel. No. Then checked the pilgrims albuguer, which did have some beds. On my way back to get Donna, I checked one last small hotel and, thankfully, they had a room with 2 beds and a private bath. The owner was very kind, and could tell I was a little frazzled, so he took a deep breath and told me (in Spanish, I think) to be calm - his casa was my casa. So, I got the room lined up, retrieved my sister and we settled in to what seemed like heaven to our tired, worn out bodies. Having revived sufficiently, we had a nice dinner at Hotel Roncevalles, steak, potatoes and salad, with that wonderful coffee. Steve and Leon joined us toward the end and we re-counted the challenges of the day. Steve bemoaned that his feet were a mess with blisters and such. I offered my leuka tape and vasoline for tomorrow. We agreed to meet at 8:30 am on Monday morning for the 22 k trek to Zibiri.

I have to say that today was one of the most physically challenging adventures I have encountered. The relief I felt when we finally got to Roncevalles and settled in was immense. I kept reminding myself that the first couple of days on the Camino are the hardest, and it will get easier...