May 3, 2015 Day 8 - Logrono --> Najera 29.1 K

May 3, 2015  Day 8 - Logono --> Nejera  29.1 K

Had a somewhat sleepless night worrying about the status of Donna's feet, given that today's scheduled hike is the longest to date - 18.5 miles. Thankfully, Donna's blisters looked better, and I taped them up to give it a go. We had an outstanding breakfast - the best scrambled eggs (only second time they have been served at breakfast), and that wonderful coffee. We walked several blocks to pick up the Camino and meet Steve and Leon. 

It was quite warm and very overcast and cloudy. However, no real rain in sight. It remained this way most of the day. We walked through some lovely parks, then started a gradual incline outside the city. Steve and I spent a good part of the first hour having the best conversation about the current state of our spiritual journeys, and agreed that God engineered our meeting on the Camino as a means of confirming some of the lessons and "themes" we are going through. While I have no doubt we differ in our opinions on many issues, we are nonetheless kindred spirits of a sort. 

We took our time, stopping frequently to drink water and rest. A highlight of the day was going through the town of Navarre, with its fascinating architecture and beautiful cathedral. Steve pointed out the statue of St. Francis, since he knows I am a fan of both the real St. Francis as well as Pope Francis even though I am not Catholic.

After leaving Navarre, we headed towards Ventosa, where we stopped for lunch. Donna called and got us a room at the same hotel where Steve and Leon are staying. We were still 10 K from Najera, and Steve took over carrying Donna's backpack to give her feet a break and get us to Najera. Donna noted a big difference in her ability to walk and speeded up appreciably. We encountered a variety of terrains along the way, hiking up and down gullets filled with rocks, along highways, and out in the fields again. Became increasingly cloudy, but never rained.  True to form, my Pamplona feet started kicking in and aching about 5 K from Najera, although I will say my legs feel stronger and stronger each day. 

Everyone was getting tired at this point, and a little punchy. so, we stopped and took a selfie. 

Finally, we reached Najera. However, we still had another 15-20 minutes through town to cross the river to the section where the hotel is located. It is a really cute, very clean and comfortable hotel. We were exhausted and struggling to walk at that point. Got checked in, took a long soak in the lovely tub, and washed out some clothes for tomorrow. After a brief rest, we met Steve and Leon for dinner at the restaurant included in their package. For 9 euros we had a fabulous dinner of mixed salad, delicious grilled steak with the ever present fries, and ice cream for dessert. The meal also included choice of wine or water and bread. Our waitress was such a joyful soul, and the conversation was lighthearted and fun. A far cry from last night's "dinner."

We are all thrilled that tomorrow is a short day of only 21 K ( 13 miles). So we plan to take our time in the morning and get a little later start. Donna informed me that she has a couple of new blisters on her heels, but I think we have probably caught them early on and she will be good to go in the morning. 

Buen Camino!

May 2, 2015. Day 7 Los Arcos --> Logrono 25k

Day 7  Los Arcos --> Logrono 28.6 K

We were fortunate to get off to an earlier start because there was a restaurant that opened at 6:30 am. This was the longest distance to date - 17.8 miles - with one pretty good incline coming about 7 K into the walk. It was still dark as we walked by the beautiful cathedral. 

The first part of the walk was on a broad gravel road bordered with beautiful wildflowers and those lush green fields. I am an early morning person, and the cool calm air was wonderful. We plodded on to Sansol and climbed to Torres del Rio, small old towns with pretty ancient looking architecture. Then came a series of hills covered with grape vines, and paths along the hills. The weather was perfect. 

By the time we got to Viana, we were starting to wear down, and Donna had that "I need something to eat" look. We climbed to the main part of town and started looking for a restaurant. Found a cute bar with the Pilgrim's menu of the day. Donna had that vegetable soup/stew she is becoming addicted to, with pork loin and French fries. I had spaghetti bolognese with the pork loin. For dessert, orange gelato.  

Thus enforced, we started down the steep hill out of town and the last 10 K to Logrono.  It was quite warm, and we started hitting the wall about 5 K from Logrono. Logrono is a sizeable city, and we had booked a room ahead of time, hoping the person on the phone was telling the truth when he assured us it was not too far from the Camino.  We trudged along on our very tired legs, winding down a long hill that ended up across the street from a pretty park that indicated we had arrived in Logrono. I was taking a picture of the Logrono trail marker and getting ready to cross the street when I hear what sounds like a loud "YIP" behind Donna, who was 20 yards or so behind me at the base of the hill. When I turned around, there were Leon and Steve waving and laughing. We had not seen them since Estella, and I was right in my recollection that they had stayed at a hotel outside of Los Arcos the night before. At any rate, even though they left Los Arcos a good hour or so later than us, they had hoofed it all day to try and catch up with us in Logrono, not even stopping for lunch. Just snacked along the way. We just laughed at how surreal it was that we just happen to keep running into each other - Steve says it is divine providence. He fairly skipped the last few yards down the hill shouting, "I am now passing the baton back to you." I had loaned him one of my trekking poles a few days earlier when he was struggling with his feet. 

We crossed over the bridge into Logrono, then went to our separate hotels with the intent to meet up later for dinner. Donna and I had several blocks to negotiate to find our hotel, and at one point a young woman with what appeared to be her husband and baby out for a stroll offered to assist us - she actually spoke some English, which was like a real gift. After Donna attempted to explain we were looking for the Hotel Carlton Rioja, she smiled and said, "Just come with us - we will take you there."  More kind strangers just when you need them. 

Checked in to a beautiful hotel with a large tub for soaking. On our last legs - again. And one more complication - Donna had developed additional blisters and was in pain. We re-grouped a little and met Steve and Leon downstairs at 6:30 pm to try and find a place to eat. Somewhere that did not require much walking. No such luck. We ended eating ice cream, and Steve and Leon headed off for mass. Donna and I stopped at a local market, where she could get some of that soup/stew at the deli, and I found fresh blueberries! That was a big deal. We returned to the room with our "dinner." Donna worked on her feet and got them elevated for the night. Steve had shared some of his blister-treating techniques. We discussed the possible options for tomorrow depending on the status of her blisters. Because we have a limited amount of time, we have to get to Santiago by May 29 for the Pilgrim's mass. And we really want to walk the entire Camino, and not have to bus any sections. That essentially means we have maybe 1 rest day, which we are trying to save depending on circumstances. Which means we want to walk tomorrow. 

We turned in early again. Exhausted again. A little concerned about tomorrow.