San Juan is a small "town" of about 20 so there was one small hotel which Steve and Leon stayed in and an albergue that housed bunk beds for 70. It was clean but a little grim with cold water showers and no toilet paper except in one stall. No breakfast was provided but we did get a dinner of garlic soup. Pasta, salad and tenderloin with the ever present French fries. It was adequate but I still felt like I was in a Charles Dickens book at an orphanage. After listening to a symphony of snoring all night, Kim and I were up and on the trail by 6:30 am.
We had to walk about 3 km to get to a town for some breakfast of bread, bread and more bread along with cafe con leche. I just don't operate my best on just bread but tried to be a trooper because I knew that Burgos and a hotel awaited us today.
The walk was one of my favorites to date because of the panaramic view of Burgos from the hillside and the view at dawn of the sun rising. Sad to say that one of the highlights was finding a McDonalds as we entered Burgos and devouring a hamburger. I don't usually eat much fast food and especially McDonald's but I thought I had died and gone to heaven. As you know from previous blogs, we are hungry a lot - especially at the end of our trek when Siesta shuts everything down and we need nourishment the most so McD was a real treat. We had a really long trek into the center of Burgos to find our hotel and wordlessly went to our room. First order of business was to get clothes washed. Second order was to soak in a bathtub that a whole family could have taken a bath in. I am afraid that even though there is so much to see in Burgos that our energy level is going to limit exploring as much as we would like before bidding the guys adios (they have a rest day tomorrow in Burgos). They will be missed
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Thursday, May 7, 2015
May 6, 2015. Day 11 Belorado --> San Juan de Ortega - 24.3 K
May 6, 2015 Day 11 Belorado --> San Juan de Ortega - 24.3 K
The small hotel where we stayed in Belorado was really cute, and the owners very friendly. We had a very nice breakfast of toast with ham and cheese, cereal and café con leche.
As we started out, the temperature was quite cool - in the 40's. We passed a little park with all sorts of outdoor fitness machines you don't normally see outside, I.e. an elliptical, stationary bike, chest press, etc. Peaked my interest.
We did some steady climbing throughout the day, finally peaking about two-thirds of the way to San Juan de Ortega. A couple really steep climbs along the way, but mostly of a shorter duration. Finally, for about the last 2 hours, we were essentially on a broad dirt road. Seemed like a lot more pilgrims than usual, and at one point there was this juncture where a whole slew of new pilgrims seemed to join in.
We were pretty tired, and our feet hurt as we finally reached San Juan de Ortega at approximately 3:00 pm. A town of 20 population, and nowhere to stay but a small hotel (booked) and the municipal monastery. Donna and I checked in at the monastery and signed up for the pilgrim's dinner there. The monastery held about 70 beds in 3 rooms, and since we were some of the later to arrive the pickings were slim. We ended up on two top bunks in the back room. Nothing but cold showers available. I have to say everything was pretty clean, but a little gloomy none the less. Donna said she felt like she in something like a Dickens novel. The day had warmed up and the afternoon was gorgeous. Really nothing to do but nap outside and rest in the sunshine. WiFi was near non-existent. In a way, it was kinda nice to be forced and just sit outside in the sunshine. Nowhere to go and nothing to do. And no walking - thankfully. As I looked around, I saw many faces I have seen several times in various towns. Many I have not met or spoken to. I resolved to be a little more outgoing and speak to people I keep seeing.
At 6:00 pm, Donna and I went to mass at the little church, mostly for something to do before dinner. Steve and Leon showed up around 6:20 and we visited for a while. Their dinner is part of the little hotel where they are staying and we could not get in. They commiserated with our having to stay at the monastery. The Pilgrims' dinner consisted of garlic soup, pasta with tomato sauce, and pork tenderloin, with a lovely mixed salad. It really wasn't all that bad.
After dinner, we went to our bunks and read for a while before trying to sleep. Since I sent my sleeping bag home, and wanted to be able to get out as soon as possible in the morning, I slept in my clothes with a blanket provided by the monastery.
Tomorrow will be our last walk day with Steve and Leon. We are going to Burgos, where we have reservations at a very nice hotel. They have a rest day there on Friday, while Donna and I plan to move on since we are on such a tight schedule to get to Santiago.
Buen Camino!
Kim
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