May 1, 2015 - Day 6 Estella --> Los Arcos 21.4 K
Our host from Hotel Zadul drove us down the hill back to the Camino, where the day started with a long slow climb out of town. Cloudy skies soon gave way to intermittent rain, and the temps were on the cool side. Probably low 50's. The body felt a bit creaky, although I am still amazed at how much better I feel each morning after going to bed wondering if I will be able to walk the next day.
The road gave way to dirt/gravel paths, still ascending. Within 30 minutes or so, we reached Bodegras Irach, known for its famous wine fountain where pilgrims could fortify themselves for the day ahead. Unfortunately, the wine fountain was not functioning today, presumably because of vandals. However, we were able to fill water bottles.
On and I we climbed, eventually entering onto paths through a forest. After a series of ups, downs and straights, we arrived at various points along the top of the mountains, which gave way to some beautiful vistas. As we continued on, the rain steadily picked up and we were getting quite wet.
We did not see or hear from Steve and Leon, so assume they were behind us since we were out a little earlier than usual. My recollection is that they were staying somewhere off Camino tonight where someone was picking them up and driving them.
Donna indicated that she was struggling to start the day - just lacked energy in general. Her feet (blisters) seemed to be doing ok, although she was moving a little more slowly than yesterday. We stopped frequently for water. At about 11:00 am, we descended into the town of Luquin, and stopped at a nice little bar to dry out and have a cafe con leche. Also ate a few snacks for the next leg.
We continued on, and the terrain changed again to wide walking paths bordered by huge lush green fields. There was a stunning array of wildflowers, and for several hours we walked along fairly level paths. About an hour or so after Luquin, we came around a bend in the path upon a vendor with several tents. Stopped for a break of orange juice, fresh squeezed as we watched. A real treat.
On and on we trudged. Started thinking about "Pamplona legs" starting to set in, but, fortunately it did not get so severe before we entered Los Arcos about 2:30 pm - early by our standards. We headed for the town square, where a number of restaurants and bars were located. To our surprise and delight, there were restaurants serving Pilgrim's menus that were open throughout the afternoon - so we could get a good meal early, leaving more rest time. Although we had called ahead and confirmed there were beds at a local abergue, I parked Donna in the town square and checked for other options that might provide a private room at a reasonable rate. Found a double room in a nice little side street near the town square for a reasonable rate. We checked in and happily headed back for early dinner.
We came across a lady we briefly met yesterday on the Camino as she was saying goodbye to some Irish friends and I offered to take their pictures. Marlene was just starting her salad and invited us to join her. We spent the next hour or so with this delightful woman, who is from San Francisco. She is a 71 year old therapist, who clearly loves her work and enjoys hearing peoples' stories. And loves to laugh. Her husband is a biker, and will be meeting some biker friends in Barcelona to ride in a few weeks. Marlene plans to meet up with him in late May before they fly home together. Marlene primarily stays in the albergues along the Camino, and has had some wonderful experiences. We felt an immediate connection with Marlene, and hope to see her again at some point on the Camino.
Despite her brief mini-"relapse" , Donna seems more and more relaxed and engaged in the Camino experience. It is fun to see her smile and laugh, and enjoy meeting new friends. We seem to be settling more into a daily rhythm and Camino routine - if there is such a thing. Each day brings a new adventure or two. We can only share a bit with you.
I am still quite tired, but hope for good nights sleep - for tomorrow we head on a longer than usual trek to Logrono. Looks like some steep inclines along the way, but at least they occur early on.
Buen Camino!
Kim
