May 16, 2015 Day 21 - Leon --> Villar Mazarife - 21.8K
Up and out by 6:45 am for an early start. Wound through Leon via the Camino, past the famous Parador Hotel (prominently displayed in "The Way"), and across the river. There were quite a few other pilgrims out for an early start. Nothing was open for breakfast yet, so planned to walk as far out of Leon as possible and stop at the first cafe that looked appealing.
The first hour or so was primarily along industrial looking roads and small urban buildings. Came across some more of those houses built into dirt hills.
We stopped for toast, croissant, tea and coffee, then continued on to La Virgen Del Camino, where there were two options - one to Villadangos Del Paramo and the other to Villar Mazarife. The problem was that there was no clear marking of the two ways. We started down one way, but it just didn't feel right, so re-traced our steps a couple of hundred feet, and veered off on a dirt path in faith that this was the right way. Fortunately, we were right. The rest of the hike was fairly uneventful for the next 3 hours or so to Villar Mazarife.
We checked into the Albergue San Antonio Padua, where we had reserved a private room. The albergue offers a variety of accommodations, from bunk beds in a dormitory like room to private rooms with baths. Our room was lovely and very comfortable. The best part was that we arrived early enough at 12:30 pm that we could actually take the afternoon to further rest up for the long hike to Astorga tomorrow. The albergue has a beautiful front lawn where the pilgrims could hang out - with near perfect temperatures and a clear, blue sky, everyone was in high spirits.
We walked into town and found a grocery store to buy some snacks for tomorrow's hike. Then headed to the other albergue in town for vegetable stew for lunch. We were ecstatic to get real food for lunch, and returned to our room for a hot shower and nap. Then sat out on the lush front lawn for a couple of hours. I began reading a book that Steve gave me as a goodbye present called "My Other Self - Conversations with Christ on Living Your Faith". I have had little time for my regular morning studies, and have really missed that. It felt like a real treat to have a few hours to just relax with this reading. Made me realize that I have missed walking with Steve and Leon, especially our talks.
The definite highlight of the day was dinner at our albergue. The large lovely dining room was filled with hungry pilgrims. To our delight, dinner was served at 7:00 pm. A beautiful mixed salad, followed by hot pumpkin soup to die for, and then vegetable piella for the main dish. Plenty of good wine and bread. All topped off by a strawberry crepe with whipped cream. We had several delightful dinner partners surrounding us and the conversation was interesting and entertaining. Two thumbs up on every aspect of the meal! And after the meal, only a few steps to our comfortable room.
Tomorrow we walk almost 19 miles to Astorga - one of the longest days of the Camino. Luckily, we are rested and well-fueled for the effort. Also, we have booked a lovely room to be waiting for us on the other end. All I need at this point is a good nights rest - haven't slept that well the past couple of nights. After a very good day here, I have high hopes.
Buen Camino!
Kim
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