June 20, 2016 Sunriver --> Chemult, OR - 59 miles

Awoke to a crisp, cool beautiful morning. Not a cloud in the sky. Bright blue. I realized that I fell asleep around 9 pm and did not wake until 4:45 am. Unheard of for me to sleep that long and that well uninterrupted. I felt rested and human. 

Randy and I left our haven at Bill's house and rode approximately 6 miles to the Sintra Cafe in Sunriver to meet Bill for breakfast. Bill is friends with the cafe owners and goes there just about every morning for breakfast and to write for a couple of hours. Nice flat ride to the cafe with beautiful snow-capped mountains in the distance. 

Had a wonderful breakfast with Bill, and sadly left around 10:20 am to resume riding to Chemult. We rode along highway 95, and were treated with a beautifully paved and mostly flat road almost all the way. Still, a lot more traffic than I cared for.

I drifted along with my thoughts. Started with thoughts of how much I enjoyed the time with Randy and Bill and our conversations. Also, thought about Truth Be Told, and wanted to put the link out there again since I want to use this ride as a fundraiser in support of that very worthy organization. As is my practice, I never know who gives - so no pressure on anyone thinking I will "check up." But do appreciate your consideration of a donation of any amount. The link is truth-be-told.org. 

We finally reached Chemult around 3:30 pm, and the Budget Inn where we had booked rooms. It would be a true understatement to say that the looks of the place were somewhat daunting and I resisted the urge to just ride by and keep on going. However, upon inspection, the rooms were clean and quite adequate. Another one of those "you can never judge a book by its cover" lessons. And, surprisingly, there was a Subway next door. So, an ok dinner. Let's just say that Chemult is sort of a group of broken down and worn buildings along the side of the highway that have seen their better days. 

The plan for tomorrow is to ride to Crater Lake - one of the rides I have highly anticipated ever since we planned this journey. I saw a PBS program recently that gave the background on how Crater Lake was formed, etc. and am excited to see it in person. The forecast is for sunny and warm - up to the 80's. We will most likely camp out, since alternatives are few and very expensive. Still, you never know what you may find. 

June 19, 2016 Rest day in Bend --> Sunriver

Spent a leisurely Sunday morning at the Rainbow Motel. The nice lady running the motel agreed to give me a late checkout, so I took more time than usual with my morning studies and prayers. Walked down to the Black Bear Diner for breakfast, then returned to clean the bike and get everything organized for the next leg of the trip. Watched a little of the US Open. Spoke with Mom and got the update on Sassy - once again she is vacationing with her grandma in Florida while I am off on my adventures. But she is now 20 years old, so I worry when I leave for extended periods whether she will be there when I return. Mom reports that Sassy is doing well and ordering them around. In control -- as she should be. 

I rode through downtown Bend on my way to meet up with Randy and Bill. The streets were lined off and there was some sort of festival going on that was apparently associated with food somehow. Delicious smells wafting in the air.  The skies were blue and clear, and the temps quite comfortable. 

Arrived at REI and while waiting a man from Eugene rode up and struck up a conversation. Asked all the usual questions you get when people see your fully loaded touring bike. His name was Trey, and he said he and his wife had just renovated a room next to their house and offered it as a place to stay if I needed while in Eugene. Another example of the kindness of strangers we see all the time on these rides. Hope for humanity. No politics or religion or meanness or judgment. Just kind and generous acts amongst strangers. 

Randy and Bill arrived and we headed into REI to pick up a few items. As we waited for Randy, Bill and I began getting to know each other. I was immediately struck by his twinkling blue eyes, that hinted at a very interesting life. And the fact that Bill is a writer suggested that he would be skilled in communicating about that interesting life. I was not disappointed. Bill is retired and moved to Sunriver near Bend a couple of years ago. Along with being a writer, he is also a poet, musician and photographer. A lot of his perspectives have been influenced and shaped by his experiences in the Vietnam war, and life afterward. He has also engaged in a number of interesting occupations over the years. For example, he worked as a social worker with the juvenile justice system in Portland, which seemed to bring a great deal of satisfaction where there was success, as well as sadness where things did not turn out well. I learned that Bill and I also share a common interest in meditation and contemplative prayer as a primary means of centering our lives. 

After REI, we walked around the beautiful shopping complex called the Old Mill District, and found a lovely Italian restaurant (Pannini's?) with tables outside next to the water and hiking/biking trails. Across the Deschutes River there was a concert going on, and the lawn appeared full of people enjoying the afternoon. The food was fabulous. I had cauliflower soup, another version of pasta primavera that was out of this world, and it was all topped off with the best tiramisu I think I have ever tasted. 

As my birthday lunch progressed, Bill and Randy asked about my association with Truth Be Told, and the work they do. I told them how I had met Nathalie almost 6 years ago now, and described the programs that TBT offers inmates to help them learn to write and tell their stories. The overwhelming emotion I felt the first time I attended a TBT graduation in prison and witnessed the way the graduates so articulately told their stories. The pride with which they received their diplomas of completion. And the impressive way many of these women have used the TBT experience to affect their approach to life after prison. Bill was especially interested in the use of storytelling as a means of coping with some rather harsh realities of life that led to prison in the first place. He related it to experiences that Vets often have coping with PTSD arising from war, and how writing can be a way of release. 

After lunch, Bill drove us around for a little tour of the Bend and Sunriver areas. The beautiful snow-capped mountains in the distance, pine trees all around, the river, and just the general feel of the area. We arrived at Bill's beautiful home - typical of what you might expect a writer/musician would live in. Rustic and spacious, and frequented by deer who graze in the yard and pass through. We settled in for the NBA finals, accompanied by Sammy - Bill's 20+ pound lover cat. He is one of those Maine Coon (?) looking cats. Gave me a little bit of a cat fix to get me through for a bit. 

I was given a lovely room/apartment above the garage for the night. All the comforts of home and then some. Retired for the night extremely relaxed and happy after a great day. Took a picture of the sunset. Can't say enough about Bill's hospitality - but will start with a simple "Thanks".  

June 18, 2016 Sisters --> Bend, Or - 22.5 miles

Woke up to a rainy morning. Since I was riding a relatively short 22 miles today, decided to wait for the rain to subside and leave at the checkout time of 11:00 am. Randy will be riding to Sunriver to stay with his friend Bill - an additional 20 miles or so beyond Bend, OR.

We walked downtown and had breakfast at The Galley, a very rustic eating establishment that was full of patrons. Had a terrific breakfast of eggs and a pancake, with bacon. 

When I got back to the Sisters Motor Lodge parking lot, a man with a loaded touring bike was checking out. I stopped to chat with him, and learned that his name was Joram (?), and that he was from Israel. A very cheerful and friendly sort, Joram was riding the transam bike route I rode 4 years ago. He plans to complete the ride in 70 days. He had had almost the identical experience on Friday when he rode over the Mackenzie Pass to Sisters. Cold, rainy long day of incline to the top of the pass where it was hail and a little snow surrounded by lava fields. Froze coming down the other side into Sisters where he was drenched and cold on arrival. Checked into the Sisters Motor Lodge and took an hour long shower to thaw and re-group. Made me smile to remember. Joram has also biked a lot in Europe, notably from England through France and Spain on the Camino. I told him that my sister and I had just hiked the Camino last summer, and we had fun comparing some notes. We wished each other safe travels and parted ways.

As Randy and I headed out, it was quite cool and cloudy, but at least not raining. We had only gone about 2 miles, when Randy realized he had a flat. Stopped and Randy expertly changed his tire. Never did find the source of the flat.

The ride to Bend was easy compared to the previous 3 days. Mostly flat and with a bit of a tailwind. Some nice views of the snow-capped Three Sisters in the distance. There was a bit of sustained gradual climb the last couple of miles into Bend, but all in all a pleasant ride. The weather started clearing up, although it was still quite cool - around 60 degrees. 

I had called ahead and made a reservation at the Rainbow Motel - which turned out to be a real gem. Very basic, but clean, spacious and quiet. And located conveniently to stores, restaurants and downtown Bend. The fact that I got a room there at all was fortuitous. Something must have been going on in Bend this weekend as all basic motels were fully booked and I had quite a time finding the Rainbow Motel. Plus, the prices were exorbitant for the most basic of motels. For some reason, the lady at the Rainbow Motel seemed to take a liking to me and gave me a really good rate. I know this because as I checked in I heard her quote rates much higher to people coming in looking for a room. I counted myself blessed, and settled in for an afternoon of rest and quiet. The motel had terrific wi-fi which was a real plus. Heard from Randy, who bemoaned that once again the Google lady had led him astray, resulting in an additional 90 minutes to his ride to Sunriver.  

Got a call from my friends Suzanne and John, with whom we are planning to stay in Ashland later in the week. My sister Donna and I met them last summer while hiking the Camino in Spain, and they immediately became part of our Camino family. I told them how much I had enjoyed biking in Oregon previously, and they invited me to visit next time I was in Oregon. So, I am taking them up on that invitation! It was so good to actually hear Suzanne's voice, and I look forward to catching up. 

Tomorrow is going to be a real rest day. Plan to meet Randy and Bill at REI in Bend, then return with them to Sunriver to watch the NBA finals. The plan for Monday is to bike to Chemult, then on to Crater Lake on Tuesday.

June 17, 2016 Detroit --> Sisters, OR - 58 miles

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ME!!

Awoke to the ringing of my phone at 5 am - my Mother winning the prize as first to wish me Happy Birthday. She sounded genuinely surprised that I was still in bed at 5 am and sounding sleepy. I assured her that I was getting up for morning studies after her call. Also got a text from my sister, a birthday singing from LaDonna, and many other birthday good wishes from friends throughout the day. Randy even tossed in his rendition of the Happy Birthday song. Wow - I was very touched that so many of you remembered and feel so blessed to have such considerate friends. 

Met Randy for breakfast, and we headed out of town around 9:00 am. 

The forecast was for 70% chance of rain, and it was cold from the get-go.  The first 30 miles or so were steady climbing. Our good luck with traffic ended - the traffic was extremely heavy as cars, rv's and trucks constantly whizzed by. Luckily, there was a fairly good shoulder to ride on and the motorists were considerate for the most part. Because we were both somewhat tired from the previous 2 days of 46+ miles riding, we stopped at frequent intervals to rest and snack. I was soaked from a combination of sweat from the exertion of climbing, compounded by cold rain. My hands and feet were cold most of the day. 

At about the 35 mile mark, the steady climbing gave way to a couple hours of steep climbs. It was fairly brutal at times. At least the scenery was somewhat interesting in that it appeared that the forest had burned at some point.

Finally, we reached the Santiam Pass Summit, elevation 4800 feet - I felt every one of those feet. After passing the Pacific Crest Trailhead, we were treated to another of those 5 mile steep downhill descents on the other side. It was very wet, and I felt a little apprehensive, but still reached speeds approaching 30 mph. It was exhilarating.  Those 5 miles were over way to quick, and I was somewhat dismayed to see a heavy cloud overshadowing the next leg of the ride. On came the rain again. And still a good 12-15 miles to go to reach Sisters. I was freezing. At least this part was fairly flat, with the occasional hill. 

Randy approached and said that he was really hurting, and wanted to stop at McDonalds just before Sisters for a fish filet. I told him a McDonald's fish filet was about the last thing on my mind ( I do not like fish), so we agreed that I would go ahead to Sisters Motor Lodge and get checked in, and Randy would join me later. I reached the motel around 4 pm, and happily settled in to my room. Randy arrived a little later and got a room there as well. He had originally planned on camping.  

After a nice long soak in the tub, I ventured into town to look for my birthday dinner. I came upon a wine bar featuring pasta primavera for dinner, and signed on. Had a delicious dinner with a celebratory glass of wine, topped off by homemade ice cream from across the street for dessert. Delicious! Started feeling human again. 

Tomorrow, Randy and I will make the relatively short (20 miles or so) ride to Bend, where I plan to find a room for the night and take a rest day on Sunday. Randy is continuing on another 20 miles to stay with his friend Bill. They plan to come to Bend on Sunday afternoon to take me out for my birthday dinner, then load up my bike and me to go back to Bill's. Randy and I are planning the next phase of the trip starting Monday towards Crater Lake.

No doubt this is one birthday I will not soon forget. At the end of the day, I am very tired, but happy.

June 16, 2016 Ripplebrook Camp Ground --> Detroit, OR - 46.2 miles

Heard Randy rustling about around 6 am and ventured out of the tent, pleasantly surprised that it was not raining and I was not freezing. The wool socks I purchased on the first Transamerica ride after freezing the first night camping had kept my feet fairly warm and my sleeping bag liner did its job. 2 valuable lessons I learned during the first go round. First things first - a hot cup of Via coffee to get me going. Then began taking down the tent and packing everything up as I ate a peanut butter sandwich and some mixed nut trail mix for breakfast. My clothes from the first day's ride were still soaked, and I put them in a water proof bag to deal with later at the motel where we had reserved rooms.

We headed out around 7:40 am, and began the 46 mile ride to Detroit. Very overcast and cool - probably in the 40's. Similar riding as on Wednesday, and again very little traffic to deal with. Lush green scenery and the stream/river running alongside. Both Randy and I were feeling the physical effects of the ride from yesterday. I spent a lot of time reminiscing about my Dad, who passed away on May 15. I was privileged to spend the last week of his life with him, and we shared some sweet moments. I am grateful. 

At about the 35-40 mile mark, we came on a view of snow capped mountains as we reached the summit of the ride for the day. Then we began a 5 mile downhill coast that was a kick! Then, all of a sudden we got a rain shower, just when I thought we might get away with no hard rain for the day.  At least I was dressed appropriately this time. 

We rolled into Detroit around 1 pm, and checked into the All Seasons Motel, one of those locally owned and reasonably priced motels with "character". As we checked in, we were greeted by Milo and Tequila, the cats, as well as a chocolate brown Lab whose name escapes me. Joining them was Oreo, a rather pudgy cat and Rita and Reba, red hens with attitudes. Andrea, the motel owner, was very accommodating and allowed me to use the laundry facilities to wash my wet clothes. Randy and I also were able to spread out the tents on the lawn and dry them out. We walked across the street to a food truck, and I had a delicious Philly cheesesteak and fries as we sat on the porch overlooking the lake. The gentleman who served us is from San Antonio and was there for the summer working for his brother. We talked about how hot is was in Texas, and how awful the traffic had become in Austin. 

Later in the evening, Randy and I watched the first half of the NBA finals between Cleveland and Golden State. We were both very tired and hurting - thank goodness for Advil, the wonder drug. Turned in early. Tomorrow will be a challenging 58 mile ride to Sisters, OR.

June 15, 2016 Portland --> Gresham --> Ripplebrook Campground - 46.6 miles

We decided to take the MAX light rail out to Gresham to avoid the traffic and start the ride from there. The Springwater Trail Corridor runs about 8 miles to Boring, OR. This is a paved bike trail and was a wonderful warmup for getting the kinks worked out when riding a fully loaded touring bike. Beautiful little windflowers along the way, which was pretty much flat.

At Boring, we started riding a series of small roads and highways the approximately 20 miles or so to Estacada, the trailhead for the Cascading Rivers Bikeway (CRB). This ride was through rolling farmland and past strawberry fruit stands and Christmas tree farms. Lots of wild flowers. The temps were in the 50-60 degree range and quite overcast. A few sprinkles here and there, but no major rain at this point. 

In Estacada, we stopped at Subway for lunch (thanks Sassy and Morris for the gift card), then visited a local grocery store to get a few items for dinner since we were camping out. Then hit the CRB - a beautiful ride through lush green areas running alongside the rushing river. This is one of the delights I remember previously from riiding through Oregon in 2012. At certain points, the water in the stream/river swirled and flowed emerald green. Lots of old logs lodged at various places where it appeared they must have been headed for lumber mills. Another striking feature of the ride was the lack of traffic. We pretty much had the road to ourselves and, in fact, at one point the road was closed off to motorized traffic. 

Alas, along the way, our luck ran out and we encountered a short-lived downpour. Came up too quickly before I could get the rain gear on, so I was pretty soaked. Then cleared up for a while, then rained again. By then I had on the rain gear, which merely trapped the soaked clothing underneath. Lesson learned - just assume rain in Oregon and wear the rain gear to start with. 

We finally pulled in to the Ripplebrook Camp ground late in the afternoon, a beautiful heavily treed fairly primitive campground. Set up our tents in spitting rain, then changed into dry clothes and took a quick nap before dinner. Randy pulled out his portable camp stove, and I had a freeze dried pasta primavera dinner from REI with broccoli salad I had picked up from the store in Estacada. Topped off with a Grandma's oatmeal raisin cookie and via coffee. Quite a nice meal. Randy had his own Uncle Ben's concoction. As we finished up, it was beginning to lightly rain. We quickly cleaned up and retreated to our tents for the night. 

I obsessed throughout the night about possible deluges that would soak through the tent, and the fact that it was cold. Knew that my bike shoes were soaked and my feet would be wet and cold to start the next day. However, all in all, was quite cozy and comfy. No phone service or wi-fi, and because of the cold and wet I was not inclined to pull out the iPad. So did the next best thing and went to sleep at 8:00 pm. Planning more appropriate clothes for tomorrow. 

For those riding with us for the first time, thought you might wonder how Randy and I came to do this ride together. I met Randy at the start of the 3rd week of my Transamerica ride in 2012.  He lives in Tuscon AZ and was riding with 2 other friends from Arizona. As often happens on these kind of adventures, you meet others on the route and sometimes ride together for a while. In this case, Randy and I found that we were compatible biking partners and ended up riding together for almost 10 weeks to complete the Transamerica ride. We have stayed in touch since, and even did another ride in 2013 from Minneapolis to Bar Harbor, MA. This northwest ride arose out of our common appreciation for Oregon and the northwest, and a desire to ride the Jasper/Banff to Vancouver ride. Plus, I guess it is fair to say we are touring biking junkies at this point.