Monday, May 18, 2015

May 18, 2015 Day 23 - Astorga --> Rabanal Del Camino - 20.6 K

May 18, 2015  Day 23 - Astorga --> Rabanal Del Camino - 20.6 K

Left the hotel in Astorga at approximately 7:15 am for a relatively short 13 mile day to Rabanal. Another clear bright blue sky. Cool temps. 



We wound through town past the Cathedral, then descended out into the countryside. The path was a slight incline up to the foothills of the mountains we had been seeing in the distance. Ran into Matthew from Austin, TX - hadn't seen him in a few days and we got caught up. 



After the extra long day yesterday, Donna indicated that she was really tired. Just didn't have much energy. I felt pretty good energy-wise, but was having pain in my left foot on the top of the foot and under the medial arch. We soldiered on to Ganso, where we stopped for hot tea and watermelon - a real treat. Thus fortified, we trudged on the last 5 K to Rabanal. At the very end, the path through the woods took on a steep rocky incline, then leveled out along a fence where pilgrims have attached various crude crosses. 


The paved road into Rabanal was a very steep incline. At the entrance was a man dressed like a medieval falconer with a bird named Yuly that would pose with you for pictures. Donna perked up and was delighted with the opportunity. I kinda enjoyed it as well.




We checked in to the Hostal Refugio next to the beautiful Benedictine monastery church before 1 pm, so had plenty of time to bathe, wash clothes, and eat lunch. This is a charming little hotel with a lot of character. We had the pilgrim's menu for lunch - green beans, roasted chicken in a scrumptuous sauce, and ice cream for dessert. The food was outstanding. Returned to the room to read Steve's book, nap and prop up my foot for the remainder of the afternoon. 

At about 6:00 pm, I walked over and checked out the church. It is my favorite so far - a very small and intimate chapel with stone walls and wooden benches. Very simple and serene. I stayed a while and just sat in silence.





Since we had a big lunch, neither of us was all that hungry, so we ate a snack in the room and headed to the bar for tea and a cafe con leche. We sat on bar stools amongst the drinkers as the piped in music played a rather chipper version of "Sweet Hour of Prayer", one of my grandmother's all time favorites. That segued into Simon and Garfunkel's "Sounds of Silence." About that time a bunch of pilgrims that we had dinner with the other night in Villar Mazarife came in and we all caught up on the last few days. 


All in all a good day, and some more time to rest and re-group. We will need all the help we can get tomorrow as we climb to La Cruz de Ferro - one of the most famous points on the Camino, and next to the highest point of the Camino. Tomorrow will also be a challenge since it is 25.6 K (approx. 16 miles), a fairly lengthy walk. I just pray that the feet hold up. 

As I prepare for bed and look out the window, I am watching a horse and a couple of cats interact with each other - obviously friends. Such simple pleasures. 


Buen Camino!

Kim

Sunday, May 17, 2015

May 17, 2015 Day 22 - Villar de Mazarife --> Astorga - 31.2 K

May 17, 2015  Day 22 - Villar Mazarife --> Astorga - 31.2 K

Yesterday was a significant turning point for me on this journey. Today, for the first time, this became Donna's and my Camino. Not the Camino of "The Way", or the Camino of other friends and acquaintances that have walked previously, or the Camino for friends and family back home who are participating vicariously.  Our Camino. Up to yesterday, I had struggled with feeling distracted to the point I was having trouble being present in the moment. Distracted by all the prep for the walk, the physical challenge of the first days and weeks, communications from various aspects of my "normal" life back home, the change in my daily routine of study and prayer that I rely upon to keep me centered, etc. Today, I feel as though I have moved to another level physically. My legs feel strong, and still no blisters (knock on wood). Although my feet still hurt at the end of the day, I believe even that is improving. Or, at least, I am becoming more used to it. I no longer wonder if I will make it.

Yesterday was the first time I was able to just sit and relax with some uplifting readings given to me by my friend Steve. Brought me back to my center, and for the first time I was able to just let everything go and feel calm. I felt grateful and a joy. It also helped that I was able to eat healthy meals throughout the day. 

Breakfast at the albergue this morning was fabulous. Granola type cereal, good toast, and terrific coffee. The sun was still rising as Donna and I started walking at approximately 7:00 am. 


The first part of today's walk continued along a flat road with fields lining both sides. For the first time, I allowed myself to listen to the soundtrack from "The Way" - wonderful soul uplifting music  (mostly instrumental) that is perfect to walk or bicycle to. I don't usually listen to music as I prefer to concentrate on the sights and sounds. However, the music got me tuned in to the surroundings and I found myself noticing all sorts of little things - individual flowers, the birds, a snail crawling across the road, the emerging mountains in the distance. I was overwhelmed with gratitude and a release of all the worries and anxiety I have felt the past three weeks. It made me cry. I came up on my sister, and told her how I was feeling. That I felt an almost palpable shift to what is now our Camino - not someone else's. That  it dawned on me that we have been together almost constantly for three weeks now and I still love her and am glad to be on this adventure with her. That has been the primary goal for both of us from the start - to walk the Camino together. She agreed that she felt a change today as well. That we can finally enjoy the walk, not just endure the physical challenge and constantly be distracted by looking for the next hostal or meal. 



One of the highlights of the day was Hospital De Orbigo - a beautiful town with cobblestone streets and an old Romanesque bridge across the river. At the end of town, we elected the scenic option to Astorga, adding an additional 1K to the day's total. Congratulated ourselves on reaching the point that we would actually make that choice, knowing the feet would hurt at the end of the day. Eventually, the terrain began changing and we started a subtle climb. The mountains in the distance gave promise to more intense climbing to come in the next few days.



We stopped in Santibanez de Valdeiglesia for lunch. As we were leaving town and heading down the street, this little old Spanish woman yelled at us while pointing - we were going in the wrong direction and off the Camino. She set us straight, and we thanked her as she laughed. I asked for her picture, but she was too embarrassed and tried to hide. The kindness of strangers - again.


We trudged along the last 10 K uphill and through fields and woods. We finally came to a point where the city of Astorga was spread out before us with snow capped mountains in the distance. On we walked. It took probably another 45 minutes through the outskirts of town and then up a last steep hill to arrive at the city center and our hotel. We were beat, but mostly our feet were killing us. Our hotel was a godsend. Right on the square, and especially caters to pilgrims walking the Camino. The room was spacious and beautiful, and a huge soaking tub to boot. Complimentary drinks in the mini fridge. And a pilgrim's menu served right there throughout the day so we didn't have to eat late - no hunting or foraging for food. We thought we had died and gone to heaven. For dinner, we had spaghetti bolognese, stewed beef, and a sort of chocolate tiramisu type dessert. 




While waiting to be served dinner, I noticed the team of women bikers we saw yesterday on the Camino, and went over to ask questions. Turns out they are a group of 5 women from Australia riding from Leon to Santiago to raise funds for "Its Not Ok", a non-profit that addresses human trafficking in Asia. I spoke with the founder, Leigh, and got more information. They also have a USA arm of the organization. The website is itsnotok.com.  I hope to see them again during the walk.

Donna returned to the room and I walked around a little (a very little) to at least get a look at the cathedral before we head out tomorrow. While the cathedral is quite impressive, is is more or less sandwiched between buildings and on a very small street. Hard to get a good picture. Returned to the room and was ready to rest for the evening after skyping with Mom - today was her 83rd birthday. She looked great and we had a nice visit.




Tomorrow we hike to Rabanal del Camino - the highest point on the Camino. It is only 20.6 K (12.8 miles). However, coming off almost 20 miles today, and the fact that there will likely be a lot of climbing, it could be a hard day. The good news is that the hotel serves a breakfast buffet early at 6:30 am, so we should at least be adequately fueled and off to an early start. We also were able to book a room for tomorrow night, so won't be stressing over that. 

Been Camino!

Kim 

Saturday, May 16, 2015

Donna - May 16, 2015 - Leon --> Villar Mazarife - 21.4K

Today was s short walk (only 12 miles) in preparation for a 19 mile hike the next day.  We tried to get some breakfast on the way but very little was open.  Even though it was a short walk today, I think Kim and I felt the effects of low energy from lack of food.   The Camino split with two options ending in different towns and the signs were very confusing.  Luckily Kim and I figured it out without going off course too many steps .  We heard a pilgrim who wasn't as lucky describe her day of trying to find her way back - she was close to tears from the frustration.

The land is beginning to look more like Texas but in the distance are mountains with snow.

Our phone call for reservations worked again and the accommodations are clean and pleasant - although 50 euros seems a little high.

Hopefully we can re-energize for the longest hike to date which will take us to Astorga.

Sent from my iPhone

Donna - May 15, 2015 - Mansilla --> Leon - 18K bus ride

Once agIn Kim and I found a Real gem in the Aubergue de Camino in Mansilla. The host bent over backwards to make us feel welcome and the room was probably our favorite so far.

After a brief rest and exploration of the town, we were again fortunate to share our evening meal with Bill from Toronto who was on his 3rd Camino.  We had some good conversation and advice to end a perfect day.

Kim and I decided that since we didn't have any rest days due to the limitation of my vacation time available and we were given permission by our guide book that we weren't cheating as real pilgrims, we decided to take the bus from Mansilla (which is like a suburb of Leon) to Leon to save our legs for sightseeing the city.  We were astounded that the bus fare was only 1.6 euro (about the same as a cup of tea).

We didn't have trouble finding our hotel but unfortunately met with ungracious hostesses.  Fortunately this has been a rare occurrence.  The room itself was nice with strong wifi but I wouldn't recommend this place to another perrogrino.

Kim and I did a little people watching near the Leon cathedral as well as took the audio tour of the church.  We also took a little train car ride that took us to the highlights of Leon with a recorded explanation in multiple languages - but the English version cut off right at the middle of the explanation so we still didn't know what we were looking at until checking in the guide book later - I give them a D and wouldn't recommend.

Once again Kim and I were running on empty and spent a lot of time searching for food.  If you can live off ice cream, cake and sweets - no problem but for veggies and something more nourishing it is a treasure hunt.  Finally we found some spaghetti and devoured our plates.

I finally decided to rest at the hotel to give my residual blisters some quality rest and it is paying off.  Kim found some food at a Mel's diner and kindly returned to the hotel with a salad for me.  She earned a gold star for all her efforts.


Sent from my iPhone

May 16, 2015 Day 21 - Leon --> Viilar de Mazarife - 21.8 K

May 16, 2015  Day 21 - Leon --> Villar Mazarife - 21.8K

Up and out by 6:45 am for an early start. Wound through Leon via the Camino, past the famous Parador Hotel (prominently displayed in "The Way"), and across the river. There were quite a few other pilgrims out for an early start. Nothing was open for breakfast yet, so planned to walk as far out of Leon as possible and stop at the first cafe that looked appealing.


The first hour or so was primarily along industrial looking roads and small urban buildings. Came across some more of those houses built into dirt hills. 


We stopped for toast, croissant, tea and coffee, then continued on to La Virgen Del Camino, where there were two options - one to Villadangos Del Paramo and the other to Villar Mazarife. The problem was that there was no clear marking of the two ways. We started down one way, but it just didn't feel right, so re-traced our steps a couple of hundred feet, and veered off on a dirt path in faith that this was the right way. Fortunately, we were right. The rest of the hike was fairly uneventful for the next 3 hours or so to Villar Mazarife. 



We checked into the Albergue San Antonio Padua, where we had reserved a private room. The albergue offers a variety of accommodations, from bunk beds in a dormitory like room to private rooms with baths. Our room was lovely and very comfortable. The best part was that we arrived early enough at 12:30 pm that we could actually take the afternoon to further rest up for the long hike to Astorga tomorrow. The albergue has a beautiful front lawn where the pilgrims could hang out - with near perfect temperatures and a clear, blue sky, everyone was in high spirits. 




We walked into town and found a grocery store to buy some snacks for tomorrow's hike. Then headed to the other albergue in town for vegetable stew for lunch. We were ecstatic to get real food for lunch, and returned to our room for a hot shower and nap. Then sat out on the lush front lawn for a couple of hours. I began reading a book that Steve gave me as a goodbye present  called "My Other Self - Conversations with Christ on Living Your Faith". I have had little time for my regular morning studies, and have really missed that. It felt like a real treat to have a few hours to just relax with this reading. Made me realize that I have missed walking with Steve and Leon, especially our talks. 


The definite highlight of the day was dinner at our albergue. The large lovely dining room was filled with hungry pilgrims. To our delight, dinner was served at 7:00 pm. A beautiful mixed salad, followed by hot pumpkin soup to die for, and then vegetable piella for the main dish. Plenty of good wine and bread. All topped off by a strawberry crepe with whipped cream. We had several delightful dinner partners surrounding us and the conversation was interesting and entertaining. Two thumbs up on every aspect of the meal! And after the meal, only a few steps to our comfortable room. 



Tomorrow we walk almost 19 miles to Astorga - one of the longest days of the Camino. Luckily, we are rested and well-fueled for the effort. Also, we have booked a lovely room to be waiting for us on the other end. All I need at this point is a good nights rest - haven't slept that well the past couple of nights. After a very good day here, I have high hopes.

Buen Camino!

Kim

Friday, May 15, 2015

May 15, 2015 Day 20 - Mansilla --> Leon - 18 K by bus

May 15, 2015  Day 20 - Mansilla --> Leon - Bus 18 K

Caught the 9:05 am bus for the 40 minute ride to Leon for our "rest" day. While it was hard to watch the pilgrims hiking along the way and not feel a little remorse, I really do believe that taking the bus was a good idea. This is not a competition, and sometimes you have to learn to give yourself some slack. It is OK.



Upon arriving at the bus station in Leon, we had about a 20 minute walk to our hotel. We checked in but we're told we could not get in until 12:00 noon. So, we walked to the cathedral and went to the tourist info office. Then walked through some of the streets. Saw an ad for a little bus "train" tour of the city, and thought that might be a good way to see the highlights without having to be on our feet. The problem was we had to wait a good hour for the next little bus. Plus, we were really hungry and no good options apparent. When we finally got on the tour, it was somewhat of a disappointment. By the time we were done, I just wanted something to eat and to get to the hotel and take a nap and rest. 




We found a restaurant that actually served spaghetti bolognese which was quite good. Shopped for some apples and snacks, then finally got back to the hotel around 3:00 pm. I tried to nap, but couldn't get to sleep. Around 5:00 pm, we walked back to the square by the cathedral to "pilgrim watch". Saw a few people we knew. Then took a quick tour of the cathedral. Tried to find something to eat, Donna gave up and went back to the hotel. I wandered around for a bit and finally landed at Mel's Diner, where I had a wonderful Philly cheesesteak. Took out a salad for Donna and returned to the hotel. 


Tomorrow, we head to Villar de Masarife, approx. 21.8 K. This is a very small town with few lodging options. We booked a room at an albergue that may be an experience...We will probably try to get out early in the morning. 

Buen Camino!

Kim

May 14, 2015 Day 19 - Hermanillos de la Calzada -–> Mansilla de las Mulas - 24.5K

May 14, 2015  Day 19 - Cad. --> Mansilla - 2...?

Woke up to a clear - and much cooler - day. Temps got down in the 40's, and the high projected to be in the 60's. 


Went downstairs for breakfast and found Gwen sitting on the stairs working on her blisters. I was surprised because she has been getting out by 6:00 am or so the last few days. But today she decided to stay for breakfast and leave later. She and two other women that stayed here are only going as far as Reliegos today since they could not find accommodations in Mansilla. They will take a longer walk into Leon on Friday.


I ate a huge breakfast, because the first part of the walk today is 17K without any towns or accessibility to food or water. Toast, croissant, yogurt, cafe con leche. We finally started walking with Gwen around 8:00 am.  I spent the first hour or so talking with Gwen. She is from Holland and has travelled pretty much all over the world. She used to work as a translator, and speaks many languages, including English beautifully. She and her husband are planning a trip to Vietnam sometime in the near future. We talked a lot about the Camino and the people we have met and experiences we have had so far. What it is all about. Gwen has a very good sense of humor and is a good storyteller - a great asset when walking for hours each day with a variety of companions. 


Although the skies were clear, it was extremely gusty and windy.  Made walking more difficult and tiring. We were walking the old Roman road, literally, and later learned that what seemed to be a lot of large smooth stones together was probably the actual stone road laid by the Romans.  Vast flat fields spread out on both sides, and it had a somewhat desolate appearance. No other pilgrims in sight for several hours. That is another odd thing about the Camino - you can be amongst large groups of people, then all of a sudden it is like they disappear and you may not see another person for hours. 



After 3-4 hours, we came into Reliegos, and found the albergue where Gwen and the other women are staying tonight. Then, we walked to the little square and found a bar that actually served food for lunch. Donna had a vegetable paiella, that she raved over. I ate the bread, cheese and chips leftovers from the improvised lunch from yesterday. Had an ice cream to top it off. 

Donna and I headed off the final 6 K or so to Mansilla. This was pretty much a narrow straight path running alongside a fairly busy road the entire way. We saw several more pilgrims on the path, as well as a number of bicyclists. I have to say, although the wind was somewhat tiring, my legs and feet felt the best they have at the end of the day. I am encouraged by the prospect for the final two weeks of the walk. I still have not gotten any blisters (knock on wood), although there is still time. I am one in a very small minority. I met a gentleman from Canada the other day whose blisters got infected and was told to stay off his feet for seven days - he compromised and took three days off. Also, Judy from Charleston SC that we met in Los Arcos and Belarado had to take the bus to Leon early for a few days off to give her feet a rest. Chris bussed to Leon yesterday to give her body a rest...


We entered Mansilla at around 1:30 pm and found our room at the Alberguria del Camino - a delightful little hotel run by Javier, who bent over backwards making us feel welcome and comfortable. The hotel is like living in a well-appointed spacious private home, with wonderful Spanish decor and art work. Our room was beautiful, with framed pencil drawings on the walls, and the big window opened up with a view of the Santa Maria cathedral right next door. Stunning. I took a picture from the room to show what we see. 



After hot showers and a much-needed nap, we wandered around town and took in the old Roman entry gates and architecture. 


Dinner was a real treat at the hotel. Bill, from near Toronto Canada, joined us and was a wealth of information. This is Bill's third Camino, and he told us a lot of the history about some of the sights and towns we have seen. As I listened, I realized we had first seen Bill striding confidently and quickly as he blew past us going into Pamplona. He has this kind of jaunty style and attitude. Made dinner a delightful experience. It would be nice to see Bill again, but you never know. 


During the day, as I was perusing the guidebook we are using, I read a section about preparing for the entry into Leon. It is only 18 K from Mansilla, and most along busy highways in industrial sections of the city. Can be dangerous, and not particularly scenic. The author suggested the short bus ride from Mansilla to Leon, leaving more or less a rest day to see some of Leon, instead of spending all you time finding your hotel, getting settled, and then being too worn out to walk another step. The author also talked about how this was ok - taking a bus. Assurance. I suggested to Donna that this made a lot of sense to me, and she readily agreed. So, we are off to the bus station in the morning with the hopes of spending a rest day of sorts in Leon - we have heard so much about what a great city it is.  

Also realized that we are two weeks away from Santiago...

Buen Camino!

Kim