June 23, 2016 Medford --> Ashland - approx. 22 miles

This card was in the lobby of the Rodeway Inn where we stayed last night. A good reminder these days and a reflection of the personality of the motel, it's owners, and employees. A delightful stay, and easy to understand why they were rated #1 on Tripadvisor ahead of the expensive chains until recently. 

Today we are riding to Ashland where we are staying with Suzanne and John, whom I met last summer while hiking the Camino in Spain with my sister. We felt an immediate connection, and they quickly became part of our inner Camino family circle. Suzanne and John retired and moved to Ashland 16 years ago after living and traveling all over the world primarily with John's job. They have a terrific outlook on life and a zest for living that produces many wonderful and interesting stories to share. 

Before hitting the Bear Creek Greenway trail for the leisurely 20 mile ride to Ashland, Randy and I rode to a nearby REI, where I purchased a better insulated sleeping pad in anticipation of future camping in cool weather. I think this one will do the trick. Also purchased some replacement gloves for my favorites that I lost somewhere between Chemult and Crater Lake. 

Another stunningly beautiful day with perfect temperatures. We took our time winding along the bike trail, taking in the stream running alongside and the mountain views in the distance. For the most part, the trail was relatively flat, and we pretty much cruised along.

At one point, there was a mailbox along the side of the trail which invited bikers and walkers to add entries to the journal inside. There were some pretty deep thoughts and observations recorded in that journal. Some very personal. This type of journal along the path was a first for me. 

As we neared Ashland, we were forced to detour a short distance onto the regular road where construction was taking place. 

Once in Ashland, we started following Google lady to Suzanne and John's house. The sometimes unpredictable Google lady has sent us on some wild adventures in the past, and this was no exception. We immediately started climbing - somewhat gradually - until we reached the other side of town and turned off the main road. Then we began a rather steep climb for approx .1 mile. The next turn took us to an almost straight up vertical hill and I gasped. My first thought was that Randy was going to kill me, then I moved on to the practicalities. Got off and started pushing the bike up the hill. At the turn at the top, the road briefly leveled out before the next turn and the mother of all hills. This one was even steeper and longer than the one we had just negotiated. Off again and started pushing. I didn't dare stop for fear of rolling backwards down the hill. At the top of the hill was a work crew digging across the road. When I reached that point, a young man (later learned his name was Ian) came and gave me a hand, pushing my bike the remainder of the hill. Meanwhile, Randy had unloaded the panniers off his bike and was huffing and puffing as he pushed his bike up the hill. I headed back down the hill to help retrieve the panniers. Again, as we reached the top, Ian came to the rescue and carried Randy's panniers the rest of the way. A godsend - then Ian handed us bottles of cold water. I took a couple of pictures of the view looking downhill and I swear they do not do justice showing how steep that hill is in actuality. You will just have to believe me. 

Suzanne pulled up just as we reached their driveway around the bend at the top of the hill. I yelled "are you trying to kill us with that hill?!" Never mind that this is the first time I have seen her since we walked the Camino a year ago - no happy "so glad to see you" or appropriate greeting by me. Never mind that Suzanne had warned us that there was a hill, and had even suggested a different approach than Google lady, which I apparently had forgotten. I quickly regrouped as I caught my breath and my heart rate recovered, at which point I joyfully gave Suzanne a hug and realized how happy I was to see her. She told me that she and John regularly hiked up those steep hills with full backpacks while in training for the Camino.

Once we unloaded our stuff, we were treated to a wonderful plate of fresh cherries, apples, bread and cheese. All local. The perfect snack after a near perfect ride and the strenuous hill workout. Suzanne and I held a "conference call" with Donna as Suzanne prepped for dinner. Randy contentedly sat outside in the sun with his book enjoying the peaceful surroundings. 

John arrived home, and we spent the rest of the evening catching up and getting to know each other. Got the tour of the yard and gardens, expertly maintained by John. The many landscaping and building projects John has designed and created are impressive, and the care and love he has put into them is almost tangible. Suzanne told me that John had carefully handpicked almost all the rocks with which the various walls were built. Among my favorite projects were the unique copper handcrafted handrails out front, the fish pond, and the multiple water fountains.

Dinner was a delicious salad accompanied by a tasty pasta dish. Suzanne is an excellent cook and makes it look easy - as if she enjoys cooking. I wish I had that talent, which I don't. But what I do have is a real appreciation for anyone that does have that talent. I do love to eat.

The plan for tomorrow is to get the tour of Ashland and rest up. 

June 22, 2016 Mazama Village --> Medford, OR - 77.61 miles

Once the sun went down, the temps dropped significantly. Had to be in the low 40's. I had a fairly miserable night as I pretty much froze my butt off, despite the fact that I had on multiple layers of clothes and the socks I bought the last time I froze camping in Oregon. Will definitely have to reassess the effectiveness of my current mattress pad, since the issue seems to be the cold floor. 

Once I got up and moving, it seemed that the temps warmed up fairly quickly. We stopped by the lodge for breakfast on our way out. The good strong coffee and our friendly server (from Alabama) revived my spirits and set a good tone for the day. Randy, who does not seem to have the same cold weather issues I do, started the day in a good mood.

We started riding around 8:50 am, and resumed the most exhilarating curvy downhill descent for over 15 miles. What a kick!! Round and round hairpin curves lines with these beautiful pine trees. So much fun. Then when the road seemed to straighten out, it still was with a downhill "bias," so that we cruised another 10-15 miles. 

We were making such good time and it was such a beautiful day, we decide to push on to Medford rather than stop at Shady Cove. Checked into a very nice reasonably priced motel, and settled in to regroup and rest a little after the camp night. I washed clothes and called my family. Then grabbed a bite to eat and worked on the blog. Also touched base with Suzanne and John regarding plans for tomorrow in Ashland. 

All in all, another fabulous biking day. 

June 21, 2016 Chemult --> Mazama Village (Crater Lake) - 47 miles

Started the day with a lovely breakfast at K & J's Cafe. K (a/k/a Kim) was one of the owners and our server.  When Randy asked if we could sit next to the window so he could keep an eye on his bike, Kim smilingly said, "You're in Chemult - your bike is safe ." The cafe was tastefully rustic, and my one pancake was huge. And delicious. Kim filled us in on how she and J got there, and local trivia. 

We set out about 8:50 am. Perfect weather day. Cool with dark blue skies and not a cloud to be seen. The first 10 miles on Hwy 97 were a breeze as we coasted on a flat road with an adequate shoulder.  Then we turned onto Hwy 138 and began a slow gradual ascent over 10 miles to the Cascade Summit - elevation 5975 feet. For some reason, I was really feeling the climb in my right knee and hip. Stopped and took Advil, and plugged in the headphones to give me some incentive music.

Shortly after passing the Summit, we turned and headed into Crater Lake National Park. As we stopped to take pictures, a young woman drove up and started asking about our trip. Her name was Carolyn, and she was from Colorado. She was taking 6 weeks to drive to all the national parks in the west. She pulled out her phone and started interviewing us like a reporter. Asked what was the best thing about bike touring, and we all agreed it was meeting people (like Carolyn) along the way and hearing their stories. Carolyn got our blog info, and said maybe she would see us when we get to Montana and Glacier Park. Somehow I doubt we will be there before Carolyn completes her tour.

Randy has a senior citizen national park pass, and the guard lady at the entrance gate let me in for free since I was with him. A gentleman approached after we passed through and complimented/thanked us for getting in line behind the cars instead of riding ahead of everyone to get to the entrance gate. A beautiful day, and everyone we met seemed to be in a good mood.

Once inside the park, we began another 10 mile or so climb up even steeper inclines. We began to see snow along the side of the road, as well as on the mountains toward which we were headed. We later learned that it had snowed over most of the past weekend. The climb was definitely taking its toll. 

Finally, after a couple of hours, I reached the North Junction and saw my first breathtaking view of Crater Lake. It was absolutely stunning, and one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen. The deepest darkest blue water I have ever seen. The mirror like reflection of the mountains on the still water was exquisite, and, coupled with the refreshing calm breeze, quieted my thankful soul.

Here is the link to a video I made of the lake. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5jk1wheae38k7yp/File%20Jun%2022%2C%207%2018%2037%20PM.mov?dl=0

Per our park map: Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States. A massive volcanic eruption 7,700 years ago left a deep basin in the place where a mountain peak once stood. Centuries of rain and snow filled the basin, forming the deep blue lake of unmatched color and clarity. The climb to the rim to view the lake was a climb up the flank of this transformed volcano.

While I was off in my own little world, Randy was making another friend. A gentleman named William (sort of) who was visiting the states from Germany. They were having a great time getting to know each other, and we ended up taking pictures of each other with that stunning lake as a backdrop. Randy was in his element and I could tell he was having a great day. As was I. 

We continued climbing and taking more pictures. A young woman named Anya from Belgium approached us and wanted to find out about the ride. She is currently biking the Sierra Cascades route, having started in Bakersfield, CA. Randy did this ride a couple of years ago, so was once again in full throes of making another new friend who also "spoke the biker language." A real plus. We learned that Anya and her boyfriend were driving through the park today, and she planned to resume her ride after he left to return to California. 

We also struck up a conversation with another lady biker who is part of a group ride. She was from Eugene, and had extensive biking experience. Another soul mate speaking our language. Fun stuff. 

Finally, we reached the highest point along Crater Lake - elevation 8151 feet - and then The Watchman. Just when I thought the views couldn't get any more amazing, they would. Took some nice shots of Wizard Island and the lake. 

We began the steep, curvy downhill descent to Mazama Village where we planned to camp. I reached speeds of over 35 mph - what a kick! And the indescribable views just continued on and on. I quit trying to take pictures as there was no way I could do justice. Once we got camp set up, we had dinner at the lodge restaurant. We were both spent and starved from the hard climb, yet exhilarated like few times I have ever experienced. I had a delicious pot roast dinner, and Randy had fettuccine Alfredo. Returned to the camp site, just waiting for it to get late enough to go to bed. 

The plan for Wednesday is to head towards Medford, probably stopping at some smaller town along the way. On Thursday we will ride to Ashland, where we will be staying with John and Suzanne, a couple from my "Camino family" that my sister and I hiked with last summer. I am really looking forward to reconnecting and catching up with them. 

Today has to rank with one of the very best biking days I have ever had.

June 20, 2016 Sunriver --> Chemult, OR - 59 miles

Awoke to a crisp, cool beautiful morning. Not a cloud in the sky. Bright blue. I realized that I fell asleep around 9 pm and did not wake until 4:45 am. Unheard of for me to sleep that long and that well uninterrupted. I felt rested and human. 

Randy and I left our haven at Bill's house and rode approximately 6 miles to the Sintra Cafe in Sunriver to meet Bill for breakfast. Bill is friends with the cafe owners and goes there just about every morning for breakfast and to write for a couple of hours. Nice flat ride to the cafe with beautiful snow-capped mountains in the distance. 

Had a wonderful breakfast with Bill, and sadly left around 10:20 am to resume riding to Chemult. We rode along highway 95, and were treated with a beautifully paved and mostly flat road almost all the way. Still, a lot more traffic than I cared for.

I drifted along with my thoughts. Started with thoughts of how much I enjoyed the time with Randy and Bill and our conversations. Also, thought about Truth Be Told, and wanted to put the link out there again since I want to use this ride as a fundraiser in support of that very worthy organization. As is my practice, I never know who gives - so no pressure on anyone thinking I will "check up." But do appreciate your consideration of a donation of any amount. The link is truth-be-told.org. 

We finally reached Chemult around 3:30 pm, and the Budget Inn where we had booked rooms. It would be a true understatement to say that the looks of the place were somewhat daunting and I resisted the urge to just ride by and keep on going. However, upon inspection, the rooms were clean and quite adequate. Another one of those "you can never judge a book by its cover" lessons. And, surprisingly, there was a Subway next door. So, an ok dinner. Let's just say that Chemult is sort of a group of broken down and worn buildings along the side of the highway that have seen their better days. 

The plan for tomorrow is to ride to Crater Lake - one of the rides I have highly anticipated ever since we planned this journey. I saw a PBS program recently that gave the background on how Crater Lake was formed, etc. and am excited to see it in person. The forecast is for sunny and warm - up to the 80's. We will most likely camp out, since alternatives are few and very expensive. Still, you never know what you may find. 

June 19, 2016 Rest day in Bend --> Sunriver

Spent a leisurely Sunday morning at the Rainbow Motel. The nice lady running the motel agreed to give me a late checkout, so I took more time than usual with my morning studies and prayers. Walked down to the Black Bear Diner for breakfast, then returned to clean the bike and get everything organized for the next leg of the trip. Watched a little of the US Open. Spoke with Mom and got the update on Sassy - once again she is vacationing with her grandma in Florida while I am off on my adventures. But she is now 20 years old, so I worry when I leave for extended periods whether she will be there when I return. Mom reports that Sassy is doing well and ordering them around. In control -- as she should be. 

I rode through downtown Bend on my way to meet up with Randy and Bill. The streets were lined off and there was some sort of festival going on that was apparently associated with food somehow. Delicious smells wafting in the air.  The skies were blue and clear, and the temps quite comfortable. 

Arrived at REI and while waiting a man from Eugene rode up and struck up a conversation. Asked all the usual questions you get when people see your fully loaded touring bike. His name was Trey, and he said he and his wife had just renovated a room next to their house and offered it as a place to stay if I needed while in Eugene. Another example of the kindness of strangers we see all the time on these rides. Hope for humanity. No politics or religion or meanness or judgment. Just kind and generous acts amongst strangers. 

Randy and Bill arrived and we headed into REI to pick up a few items. As we waited for Randy, Bill and I began getting to know each other. I was immediately struck by his twinkling blue eyes, that hinted at a very interesting life. And the fact that Bill is a writer suggested that he would be skilled in communicating about that interesting life. I was not disappointed. Bill is retired and moved to Sunriver near Bend a couple of years ago. Along with being a writer, he is also a poet, musician and photographer. A lot of his perspectives have been influenced and shaped by his experiences in the Vietnam war, and life afterward. He has also engaged in a number of interesting occupations over the years. For example, he worked as a social worker with the juvenile justice system in Portland, which seemed to bring a great deal of satisfaction where there was success, as well as sadness where things did not turn out well. I learned that Bill and I also share a common interest in meditation and contemplative prayer as a primary means of centering our lives. 

After REI, we walked around the beautiful shopping complex called the Old Mill District, and found a lovely Italian restaurant (Pannini's?) with tables outside next to the water and hiking/biking trails. Across the Deschutes River there was a concert going on, and the lawn appeared full of people enjoying the afternoon. The food was fabulous. I had cauliflower soup, another version of pasta primavera that was out of this world, and it was all topped off with the best tiramisu I think I have ever tasted. 

As my birthday lunch progressed, Bill and Randy asked about my association with Truth Be Told, and the work they do. I told them how I had met Nathalie almost 6 years ago now, and described the programs that TBT offers inmates to help them learn to write and tell their stories. The overwhelming emotion I felt the first time I attended a TBT graduation in prison and witnessed the way the graduates so articulately told their stories. The pride with which they received their diplomas of completion. And the impressive way many of these women have used the TBT experience to affect their approach to life after prison. Bill was especially interested in the use of storytelling as a means of coping with some rather harsh realities of life that led to prison in the first place. He related it to experiences that Vets often have coping with PTSD arising from war, and how writing can be a way of release. 

After lunch, Bill drove us around for a little tour of the Bend and Sunriver areas. The beautiful snow-capped mountains in the distance, pine trees all around, the river, and just the general feel of the area. We arrived at Bill's beautiful home - typical of what you might expect a writer/musician would live in. Rustic and spacious, and frequented by deer who graze in the yard and pass through. We settled in for the NBA finals, accompanied by Sammy - Bill's 20+ pound lover cat. He is one of those Maine Coon (?) looking cats. Gave me a little bit of a cat fix to get me through for a bit. 

I was given a lovely room/apartment above the garage for the night. All the comforts of home and then some. Retired for the night extremely relaxed and happy after a great day. Took a picture of the sunset. Can't say enough about Bill's hospitality - but will start with a simple "Thanks".