May 15, 2015 Day 20 - Mansilla --> Leon - 18 K by bus

May 15, 2015  Day 20 - Mansilla --> Leon - Bus 18 K

Caught the 9:05 am bus for the 40 minute ride to Leon for our "rest" day. While it was hard to watch the pilgrims hiking along the way and not feel a little remorse, I really do believe that taking the bus was a good idea. This is not a competition, and sometimes you have to learn to give yourself some slack. It is OK.

Upon arriving at the bus station in Leon, we had about a 20 minute walk to our hotel. We checked in but we're told we could not get in until 12:00 noon. So, we walked to the cathedral and went to the tourist info office. Then walked through some of the streets. Saw an ad for a little bus "train" tour of the city, and thought that might be a good way to see the highlights without having to be on our feet. The problem was we had to wait a good hour for the next little bus. Plus, we were really hungry and no good options apparent. When we finally got on the tour, it was somewhat of a disappointment. By the time we were done, I just wanted something to eat and to get to the hotel and take a nap and rest. 

We found a restaurant that actually served spaghetti bolognese which was quite good. Shopped for some apples and snacks, then finally got back to the hotel around 3:00 pm. I tried to nap, but couldn't get to sleep. Around 5:00 pm, we walked back to the square by the cathedral to "pilgrim watch". Saw a few people we knew. Then took a quick tour of the cathedral. Tried to find something to eat, Donna gave up and went back to the hotel. I wandered around for a bit and finally landed at Mel's Diner, where I had a wonderful Philly cheesesteak. Took out a salad for Donna and returned to the hotel. 

Tomorrow, we head to Villar de Masarife, approx. 21.8 K. This is a very small town with few lodging options. We booked a room at an albergue that may be an experience...We will probably try to get out early in the morning. 

Buen Camino!

Kim

May 14, 2015 Day 19 - Hermanillos de la Calzada -–> Mansilla de las Mulas - 24.5K

May 14, 2015  Day 19 - Cad. --> Mansilla - 2...?

Woke up to a clear - and much cooler - day. Temps got down in the 40's, and the high projected to be in the 60's. 

Went downstairs for breakfast and found Gwen sitting on the stairs working on her blisters. I was surprised because she has been getting out by 6:00 am or so the last few days. But today she decided to stay for breakfast and leave later. She and two other women that stayed here are only going as far as Reliegos today since they could not find accommodations in Mansilla. They will take a longer walk into Leon on Friday.

I ate a huge breakfast, because the first part of the walk today is 17K without any towns or accessibility to food or water. Toast, croissant, yogurt, cafe con leche. We finally started walking with Gwen around 8:00 am.  I spent the first hour or so talking with Gwen. She is from Holland and has travelled pretty much all over the world. She used to work as a translator, and speaks many languages, including English beautifully. She and her husband are planning a trip to Vietnam sometime in the near future. We talked a lot about the Camino and the people we have met and experiences we have had so far. What it is all about. Gwen has a very good sense of humor and is a good storyteller - a great asset when walking for hours each day with a variety of companions. 

Although the skies were clear, it was extremely gusty and windy.  Made walking more difficult and tiring. We were walking the old Roman road, literally, and later learned that what seemed to be a lot of large smooth stones together was probably the actual stone road laid by the Romans.  Vast flat fields spread out on both sides, and it had a somewhat desolate appearance. No other pilgrims in sight for several hours. That is another odd thing about the Camino - you can be amongst large groups of people, then all of a sudden it is like they disappear and you may not see another person for hours. 

After 3-4 hours, we came into Reliegos, and found the albergue where Gwen and the other women are staying tonight. Then, we walked to the little square and found a bar that actually served food for lunch. Donna had a vegetable paiella, that she raved over. I ate the bread, cheese and chips leftovers from the improvised lunch from yesterday. Had an ice cream to top it off. 

Donna and I headed off the final 6 K or so to Mansilla. This was pretty much a narrow straight path running alongside a fairly busy road the entire way. We saw several more pilgrims on the path, as well as a number of bicyclists. I have to say, although the wind was somewhat tiring, my legs and feet felt the best they have at the end of the day. I am encouraged by the prospect for the final two weeks of the walk. I still have not gotten any blisters (knock on wood), although there is still time. I am one in a very small minority. I met a gentleman from Canada the other day whose blisters got infected and was told to stay off his feet for seven days - he compromised and took three days off. Also, Judy from Charleston SC that we met in Los Arcos and Belarado had to take the bus to Leon early for a few days off to give her feet a rest. Chris bussed to Leon yesterday to give her body a rest...

We entered Mansilla at around 1:30 pm and found our room at the Alberguria del Camino - a delightful little hotel run by Javier, who bent over backwards making us feel welcome and comfortable. The hotel is like living in a well-appointed spacious private home, with wonderful Spanish decor and art work. Our room was beautiful, with framed pencil drawings on the walls, and the big window opened up with a view of the Santa Maria cathedral right next door. Stunning. I took a picture from the room to show what we see. 

After hot showers and a much-needed nap, we wandered around town and took in the old Roman entry gates and architecture. 

Dinner was a real treat at the hotel. Bill, from near Toronto Canada, joined us and was a wealth of information. This is Bill's third Camino, and he told us a lot of the history about some of the sights and towns we have seen. As I listened, I realized we had first seen Bill striding confidently and quickly as he blew past us going into Pamplona. He has this kind of jaunty style and attitude. Made dinner a delightful experience. It would be nice to see Bill again, but you never know. 

During the day, as I was perusing the guidebook we are using, I read a section about preparing for the entry into Leon. It is only 18 K from Mansilla, and most along busy highways in industrial sections of the city. Can be dangerous, and not particularly scenic. The author suggested the short bus ride from Mansilla to Leon, leaving more or less a rest day to see some of Leon, instead of spending all you time finding your hotel, getting settled, and then being too worn out to walk another step. The author also talked about how this was ok - taking a bus. Assurance. I suggested to Donna that this made a lot of sense to me, and she readily agreed. So, we are off to the bus station in the morning with the hopes of spending a rest day of sorts in Leon - we have heard so much about what a great city it is.  

Also realized that we are two weeks away from Santiago...

Buen Camino!

Kim

 

May 13, 2015 Day 18 - Terradillos de los Templarios --> Hermanillos de la Calzada - 26.9 K

May 13, 2015  Day 18 - Terradillos Los Templarios --> Calzadilla de Los Hermanillas - 24.5K

Got up and out by 7:00 am. We were trying to beat the heat (supposed to be around 80 degrees), plus a pretty long day today. 

 We met our first challenge right off the bat. Not clear whether to continue down a path that ran alongside a rather busy highway, or veer left onto a dirt road. Since there appeared to be a really old Camino stone marker towards the highway side, we elected that route. However, I soon noticed pilgrims in the distance off to the left on what seemed one of those broad white dirt pathways - a lot of pilgrims - and I didn't see any pilgrims on our path. While I felt that the path we were on would eventually dovetail with what was seeming more and more the "real" pilgrim path, I really wanted to get back on the other sure path and began looking for ways to cross the plowed fields and grass fields that separated us. I saw what I thought might be a road and headed that way. But turned out not to be a road, but a hike down the side of a little hill, followed by "wading" through a field of waist-high grass, followed by a hike through a plowed up dirt field, then crossing a little stream and another hike through another grass field to finally wind up on the pilgrim path. It was a bit of a hike and not real easy, and I could feel the daggers in my back coming from my sister - she was not happy with me. However, I was glad to be back on the pilgrim path, and we trundled on, at least knowing we were on the right path.

Hiked through several small towns. At one, we saw what appeared to be houses built into the side of a hill, with chimneys arising out of the top of the hill. Would have loved to have seen the inside of those dwellings. Also, ran into Sheila once again - she apparently had passed us while we were lost and hiking the fields. We visited a bit, then headed on. 

As we approached Sahagun, we came across a couple of statues framing what looked like an entrance. Donna thinks the translation may have said we were at the halfway point of the Camino. We had heard that we would pass the halfway point today, so we choose to believe this was it. 

Sahagun looked like a pretty interesting town. Sheila was staying there to take in the architecture. As we passed through the center, I heard a shout and Chris ran over from a cafe.  She was having more leg problems and just fatigued generally, so decided to get a room in Sahagun to rest today, and plans to take the bus to Leon tomorrow to give her body a chance to rest.

Donna and I plodded on towards Calzada de Coto, which appeared from the map to be a town of at least a size that we should be able to find something to eat for lunch before the final 9K leg of the day. To our dismay, there was nothing more than a little general store. I went in and got some bread, cheese, chips and apples in case no other options appeared. Which they did not. We stopped on a bench just outside of town and had our improvised lunch. It was warm and very gusty. 

The final 8.7 K was hot, dry and dusty. Donna was hurting and taking it step by step. We did not see any other pilgrims along the way, and assume most took an alternative route to Bercianos del Real Camino. On and on and on - looked pretty dry and desolate. Finally, we came to Calzadilla de Los Hermaniilos, and Albergue Via Trajana, where we had booked a room. Gwen was already there, sitting on the porch waiting to order lunch, and she looked miserable. She had left at 6:00 am and pretty much hiked alone all day. She did not look happy. However, the mood of the group shifted dramatically as we had some real food - Gwen and Donna had lamb stew and I had roast chicken. Delicious. 

Spent the rest of the afternoon getting cleaned up and organized for tomorrow. The plan is to walk 24.5 K to Mansilla De Las Mulas, where we have booked a room at Albergue del Camino. The weather is supposed to drop tonight with a high in the low 60's tomorrow. Luckily, no rain in the forecast.

This evening I visited with the other pilgrims staying here, and tried to help them find places to stay tomorrow night and in Leon for Friday. Because of the scarcity of rooms in Mansilla, I believe they have decided to stop short of Mansilla, then push a longer day to Leon on Friday. Hopefully, we will see them again. Donna and I have gotten quite fond of Gwen.

Buen Camino!

May 12, 2015 Day 16 - Carrion --> Terradillos de Templarios - 26.8 K

May 12, 2015  Day 16 - Carrion --> Terradillos de los Templarios - 25.7K

Went to a lovely Pilgrim's mass at the cathedral across the street from our hotel. After the regular mass, the priest and nuns asked all the pilgrims to come to the front, where he said a special blessing. Then, they actually touched each pilgrim individually and conferred a blessing, after which we were given these little stars that the nuns had made for the pilgrims. It was very special and moving. On our way out, Chris made a donation to light a candle on behalf of the three of us - the one front and center in the picture.

Had a nice breakfast at Hostel La Corte and were on the road around 7:15 a.m.  

Clear skies and cool weather to begin with, but we knew it was supposed to get quite warm - near 80 - by early afternoon. Coming out of town was an interesting pilgrim statue.

The first 10-15 K was a long straight dirt path that seemed to go on and on and on.  Fields alongside each side. 

We caught up with Gwen along the way, and hiked with her most of the day. She is such a pleasant and delightful person, and has actually visited Austin, Texas. We also spotted Sheila (from Scotland) several times along the way. Sheila is my biker compadre, and has even biked through Austin on one of her tours. Sheila tends to like to hike alone, and we all respect that.

We reached Calzada de Coto and stopped for a nice break. This is where Steve and Leon are scheduled to stay tonight. Peter from Australia stopped with us there as well to attend to some really nasty blisters. He found some insoles that he hopes will alleviate some of the effects of the constant pounding. Peter is another of those folks we continually run into several times a day. A quite cheerful fellow. 

We headed out for the final 10 K to Terradillas, which included a steady incline for a while, but nothing close to the steep climbs we have encountered previously. The terrain changed a little again, with some shade trees every once and a while. Best of all, we were off the long straight path. We had reserved a room at Albuegue LosTemplarios in Terradillas. This was a wonderful Albuegue that truly caters to the needs of pilgrims on the Camino. Offers a variety of rooms and bunks to suit the budget of every pilgrim. Nice facilities to wash clothes, and a lovely cafe. Good wi-if. Donna and I shared a twin room with private bath. Sheila also showed up here, and she and Gwen got a room together. We had a nice opportunity to visit. 

Around 5:00 pm  Chris showed up. She is staying at the other  albergue about 5 minutes from here. She stayed for dinner, so the 5 of us were together again. 

Dinner was excellent. I had spaghetti, pork loin, and ice cream. All for the standard pilgrim rate of 10 euros. 

After dinner, we sat and chatted a little longer. I got Sheila's contact info so we can keep in touch. She is scheduled to ride the Pacific Crest route in May 2016 with Woman Bicycle Tours, and tried to talk me into considering it. Sheila is planning on a short day tomorrow to Sahagun, so we will likely not see her again. Then again, it is the Camino and you never know...

Gwen got our Albuegue info for tomorrow night and also made a reservation at the same place. So, we will probably see her on the trail, or at least meet up with her at the end of the day. Chris indicated that she was planning to stop at Bercianos, which is several K shorter than our planned walk of 26.9 K to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. But after hearing everyone else's plans, you never know. 

Donna started out pretty strong today, and had not taken Advil since yesterday. However, by the end of the walk she was beginning to feel the effects of the shin splint again. Also a few new blisters popped up, but she is becoming the pro at blister care. Seems like just about everyone we meet is or has been dealing with blisters. Regardless of the blister/shin splint situation, Donna has been a real trooper, and her pace is picking up noticeably. I think with the physical improvements, we are both able to actually enjoy the walk more. 

Buen Camino!

Kim

Donna - May 11, 2015 Fromista --> Carrion - 20.5 K

After a night spent in a converted train depot private albergue, Chris , Kim and I set off early to Carrion.  We stopped briefly at a bar to get coffee, bread and more bread before setting off.

The weather started cool (around 55 degrees) before warming up quickly.  The scenery still is expansive, lush and with many wildflowers.

We took a break halfway at a unique albergue bar that had a tepee, hammocks and animals of all sorts.  One tall and rambunctious goose came up behind a lady and "goosed her".  It was really funny to see,

We made good time to our hostel in Carrion by around 12:30.  Kim and I were fortunate to find a bar with a really kind fellow who served us some fettuccini with spinach and spaghetti bolonaise.  After having only sugar all day it was so nice to have a hot meal that tasted good.

Kim and I then went around the corner to check into our Hostal room.  It is pretty in pink and has a picture of Marilyn Monroe but is quite nice.  It was nice to have time to get cleaned up and legs elevated.  However, we found out that our camino brothers are just up the road so we walked out to the monastary they are staying at and caught up.  It was so much fun to reconnect and share experiences.

Hopefully Kim and I will be able to catch up on blog, rest and get an early start tomorrow.

Note: today was first day I walked without Ibuprofen so definitely improving.




Sent from my iPhone

May 11, 2015 Day 15 - Fromista --> Carrion - 20.5 K

May 11, 2015  Day 15 - Fromista --> Carrion - 20.5 K

We left the train depot albergue around 6:45 am and headed toward the square in Fromista, where we found a cafe that was open for breakfast. Got on the road about 7:30 am. It was cool to start, but you could feel that it would heat up pretty good by mid-morning. 

The path today was pretty much a straight shot alongside the main highway and flat. Rolling farmland to both sides. We took our time, stopping several times to rest and snack. 

Chris and I walked along together and talked about a variety of topics - her family, what the Camino is meaning to her, plans for after the Camino, etc. She has decided that part of her Camino walk is to not book places to stay ahead of time, but go in faith that God will provide the place she is to stay for whatever purpose. She also is conscious of watching her spending, and while she will stay in small hotels occasionally, would prefer to find albergues at more reasonable prices. While we all had discussed the "faith" approach to lodging with Donna, and she indicated at first that she would give it a try, it became apparent to me that it was stressful going into a town not having a place already lined up. Plus, she really prefers the comfort of a private room and bath. Doesn't have to be expensive or fancy - just certain ahead of time. I understand since I went through similar anxieties when I first started biking across America. But I learned that things always had a way of working out, and often with uncertainty comes unexpected adventures that can't be planned. While I also like a hot shower and comfortable bed, I am probably a little more willing to embrace uncertainty with the possibility of unexpected adventures. At any rate, my feeling was that I did not want Donna to stress all day worrying about where we would stay such that she couldn't even enjoy the walk. And I also understand that when you are dealing with blisters and a possible shin splint, you prefer comfort. So, the three of us have pretty much agreed that Donna and I will look to book ahead, and Chris will go on "faith." If at any time Chris wants to stay with us, that's great. And with three, that reduces the cost. But no pressure on anyone. 

We made good time because it was only about 13 miles to Carrion, and flat. Got to town about 12:30 pm, and Chris took off in search for her "faith-based" albergue, and Donna and I lucked out finding a bar that was actually serving meals. We had spinach fettuccine Alfredo  and spaghetti. Delicious..Donna was practically dancing with joy. Then, we checked into our room at Hostal La Corte, right next to the Cathedral. We have a lovely room with very clean bath. And the restaurant has gotten very good reviews for food other than our regular pilgrim's menu fare. Donna was so happy with the room that she gave me a big hug and said I had "hit it out of the ballpark" with this one. Very reasonably priced too.

I had texted Leon, and after they got settled in at the monastery where they are staying, Donna and I walked the 15 minutes over to visit Steve and Leon. It was really nice to see them and catch up. They looked a little haggard, but don't we all. Leon has joined the blister club. They are planning on attending mass in the morning, so we may not get to see them again - then again, you never know on the Camino. They could catch up. Ran into Chris a couple of times as I was out and about this afternoon, and she may join us in the morning - or, maybe not. You never know on the Camino. 

Donna and I returned to our little haven and booked an albergue for tomorrow night in Terradillos. 

Buen Camino!

Kim

May 10, 2015 Day 15 Castrojeriz--> Fromista - 25.2 K

May 10, 2015  Castrojeriz --> Fromista  25.2 K

Had a nice breakfast to start the day at the hotel, and were on the road by approximately 7:30 am. I took a picture of the ruin on top of the hill behind our hotel. 

Another bright clear day, that promised to get hot. We wound downhill out of town, and across to the foothills, where the path wound up sharply at a 12% grade to the top. A stunning view from there looking back at the town. The road flattened out for a kilometer or so, then descended sharply down at an 18% grade. At the bottom, the road flattened out for quite some time amid green fields. 

Went through a couple of small towns, and stopped a couple of times for coffee and snacks. Seemed like every time we stopped, Sheila - our dinner companion from last night - would show up. Our last stop of the day was in Boadilla, leaving approximately 6 K to go to Fromista. That last stint was a whole different look. The path ran along a broad canal and under shade trees. The birds were chirping loudly. This was one of my favorite stretches of the day. I looked back and Donna was chatting with a new friend - Frederic from France. 

We crossed the canal and came into Fromista at approximately 3:00 pm. We are staying at a former train depot turned abergue next to the train tracks. I washed some clothes and we all relaxed for a couple of hours before heading into town for dinner - which turned out to be frozen pizza. I have to say it didn't matter. We were just ready for something different than the pilgrim's menu. 

After returning to the room and reviewing the route for tomorrow, I realized that Steve and Leon are just behind us in Boadilla. They must have put in some killer long days the past two days. They are scheduled to be in/near Carrion tomorrow night - and so are we! So, I texted Leon and we will try to either get together tomorrow night or meet early Tuesday and at least hike together for most of the day. It will be fun to catch up.

Donna is still dealing with some blister issues and possible shin splints, but just carries on. We are also learning that just about everyone else has blisters, etc as well.