May 22, 2015 Day 27 - Herrerias --> Biduedo - approx. 25 K

May 22, 2015  Day 27 - Herrerias --> Biduedo - approx. 25 K

Had an excellent breakfast at the same place we got the lasagna yesterday - Donna had scrambled eggs with mushrooms and was a very happy camper to start out.

Quite nippy to start, but another clear blue sky in the making as we headed out on a rather steep climb back into the mountains. Most of the day we were surrounded with awesome views. At the town of O'Cebreiro, we stopped for coffee and tea. Also met up again with John & Suzanne and found out we were all staying at the same place tonight. So, agreed to meet up for dinner. Saw a lot of other pilgrims we have met previously thoughout the day as well. 

The last few K's were a little bit of a struggle, but all in all my feet held up OK, probably due in part to Advil. We arrived at the Casa Quiroga at about 3:00 pm, and rested a bit before meeting John, Suzanne, Simon and Millie for dinner, which was excellent. Had a thick, hot potato soup that was to die for and a delicious roast chicken. 

Tomorrow is another 25 K day (making up for the shorter day) to Sarria. This will be another significant milestone. Sarria is approx. 100 K from Santiago, and in order to get your compostella signifying you have completed the Camino, you must walk the last 100 miles. A lot of "pilgrims" start the Camino at Sarria, and I have heard that it can get increasingly crowded as you get closer to Santiago as people jump on. Guess we will be finding out first hand in a few days.

Buen Camino!

Kim 

May 21, 2015 Day 26 - Villafranca -–> Herrerias - approx. 22 K

May 21, 2015  Day 26 - Villafranca --> Herrerias - approx. 22 K

Left Villafranca at approx. 7:45 am for our shortened hiking day. The temps were quite cool, and we had donned our coats for at the least the start of the walk. However, it was a clear, bright blue sky. 

We selected the easiest option for the day, which ran alongside Highway N-IV. It was fairly flat most of the day running through a valley. Although we were on a main road, there was a sturdy concrete barrier separating the pilgrims from the highway. A bubbling stream ran alongside most of the day as well. This route ran through many small towns, which provided many opportunities to stop and rest. 

The last town before our planned stop was Ruitelan. Just as we were walking up to a bar/cafe, I saw Chris, sitting at a table eating an ice cream. I yelled at her and she jumped up and ran over with a big smile and hug. We visited for a few moments, and she said that she hoped to be able to walk with us some tomorrow. We'll see. 

We continued on the last couple of kilometers and arrived at our hostel at about 12:30 pm. Very cute and perched next to a large meadow at the bottom of the hills. Stunning view. 

We walked up the street to a neighboring cafe for lunch and had an outstanding pilgrim's meal of lasagna.  Delicious. There were several friendly cats to entertain us, and the waitress was outstanding. 

While we were dining, a young man came and posted some info re massages. I picked up on the foot massage option, and asked if he was available and how much. To make a long story short, he returned to our hostel with us and I got a foot/leg and back massage. He was very good, so I got him to give Donna a massage as well. Hopefully, this will assist my walking tomorrow, since we are looking at about 25 K. 

Late afternoon, we spent some time trying to line up a room for tomorrow night in Biduedo - a very small village with few options. The wi-if where we are staying is very poor, and we were having difficulty getting info. Donna's attempt to call and communicate with one of the hostels was unsuccessful as the lady spoke no English. As we sat there contemplating what to do next, the owner of our hostel walked in and I asked if he knew of any places to stay in Biduedo. To make a long story short, he ended up calling the lady back and getting a reservation for a room for us tomorrow night. Donna and I both sighed relief. 

My left foot held up through most of the walk today, although it was starting to get a little iffy towards the end of the day. I am trying to elevate and rest as much as possible before tomorrow. Also, I have taken to sending my backpack ahead with Donna's to take as much weight as possible off my feet, and because we do have a longer day tomorrow. It is really weird how I get up and the foot feels fairly good, but as the day wears on, and particularly near the end, it is sometimes all I can do to walk to the place we are staying. Next morning, feels pretty good again...

If we catch up from our shortened day and get back on schedule the next few days, we are supposed to arrive on Santiago one week from today. In some ways, hard to believe we are already almost there. Stayed tuned.

Been Camino!

Kim

May 20, 2015 Day 25 Molinaseca --> Villafranca Del Bierzo - 30.6 K

May 20, 2015  Day 25 - Molinaseca --> Villafranca Del Bierzo - 30.6 K

Longest day yet - and, believe me, I feel it..

Started out very cool temps, although not as cool as yesterday. Within ten minutes, we came up on John and Suzanne, with whom we had had dinner last night. The four of us walked together for an hour or so, noticing in particular the beautiful roses in people's yards and along the road. We took a picture of Suzanne and Donna to demonstrate the size and colors, then parted ways as they stopped at a cafe. 

The first two hours were essentially hiking around Ponferrada, a rather large city with a population of 69,000. We had a steep climb to the top of a hill where there was an ancient castle that was quite impressive. Perched on one of the walls was a cute dog that posed perfectly for his picture.

From the top of the hill, we wound down and finally out of the city. The remainder of the day's walk was fairly bland. Walked through numerous little towns, then out in the country along sandy roads along vineyards. Donna indicated that she felt really really tired after yesterday's strenuous walk.

We finally reached the rather interesting town of Cacabelos around 1:30 pm. With almost 8 K remaining to go to our destination of Villafranca, rigor mortis of the feet began setting in in a big way. The road out of town was a very long fairly steep incline that was a real struggle for me. I began to experience that sense of unreality that sometimes occurs in these type of physically challenging situations - I was reminded of the day Randy and I rode bicycles into 35 mph Montana headwinds for hours and feeling like I was losing my mind. By the time we ascended the final long, long dirt road and then headed down into Villafranca, I was into major shuffle/limp mode. "What in the world was I thinking" I kept asking myself. My feet ached at the same time that they felt encased in cement. Hard to move them at all. Then came the cobblestones in Villafranca. Then, at last, our charming little hotel with the huge soaking tub. The funny side note to that is that Donna and I were standing in the little street looking at our map trying to figure out where the hotel was. These friendly old Spanish gentlemen came over to help, then started laughing at us - we were literally standing clueless in front of the doorway. 

We were scheduled for another 30 K tomorrow through some of the most challenging inclines and elevations yet. However, we have decided that three days running is way too much, especially given our rather pathetic finish today. So, we are going to shorten tomorrow's walk, and spread the difference over the next couple of days to get back on track. 

Had the typical Pilgrim's meal up on the city square - no small feat to hike up the hill to get there. In for the night, and some well-needed rest.

Buen Camino!

Kim

May 19, 2015 Day 24 - Rabanal --> Molinaseca - 25.6 K

May 19, 2015  Day 24 - Rabanal --> Molinaseca- 25.6 K

We left Rabanal at approximately 7:15 am in somewhat cloudy conditions and headed into the mountains. I think the temps had reached into the high 30's or low 40's overnight, and this was the coldest day to date on our Camino walk. It was also quite windy, which made it feel even colder. I bundled up in several layers of clothes and gloves. 

This was one of my favorite walks of the entire journey, although probably one of the hardest on me physically. I have started having some pain in my feet, particularly my left foot, aside from the end of the day foot pain. A lot of the climbing into, up and through the mountains was on narrow rocky paths, and this is particularly hard on the feet. However, the scenery throughout the day was beyond stunning - I cannot even describe it in any way that gives it justice.

In one word - Wildflowers. The mountains were totally blanketed in wildflowers. Primarily these purple-pink wildflowers. It was stunning. However, it did not stop there. There were also dense groups of white, yellow, purple, deep blue wildflowers all alongside the paths we walked throughout the day. Totally surrounded us. The pictures just don't do it justice. I kept thinking of a masterpiece of art and the Creator behind it. 

We trekked through several small towns perched on the side of the mountain on our way up to La Cruz de Ferro. These little towns are like something out of medieval times in their rough stone buildings and animals. A lot of times you feel as though you have been transported back in time. La Cruz de Ferro is essentially a relatively small cross mounted atop a tall pole which is perched on a large mound of stones. People will leave stones at the base of the cross, or attach notes or other mementos. As seen in the movie, and read about in books on the Camino, this is often a place of significant meaning to pilgrims on the way. I took my various rocks, scallop shells and momentous and left them with blessings on those for whom they represented. However, I have to say I was a little disappointed with La Cruz de Ferro. First, it was located right beside a road, not atop a hill that you had to hike as I had pictured. Second, there was a big tour bus parked there, and the whole atmosphere had somewhat of a "circus" quality (my sister's description), that somewhat detracted from any reverential feeling. More of a somewhat frenzied feeling. 

After La Cruz de Ferro, we walked for several hours through the mountains "oohing" and "aahing" at the scenery. In the distance, were windmills churning away. Eventually, we came over to the other side of the mountain and could see a large city spread in the valley. We started our steep descent on small paths. Along the way, we stopped for lunch in the village of Ascebo. This was a welcome respite. The sun had finally come out, but it was still cold enough to keep on the long sleeves. 

The steep descent after Ascebo continued for what seemed like forever, mostly along rocky, gulch-like paths. The wildflowers still lined the sides of the paths, and it was quite beautiful. But the sore feet really started kicking in, only exacerbated by the extreme rocky conditions. I was literally to the point that I was taking one step at a time, and just praying to get there. 

At about 3:00 pm, we sort of hobbled into Molinaseca, and found our hotel - a cute little family run home. There we had to climb three flights to our room at the top, which was quite lovely. However, no wi-if. Had to climb down the stairs to the first floor to use the Internet. After taking hot showers and getting cleaned up, Donna and I went down and found lodging for tomorrow at Villafranca. Another very long day of 30 K. Then,exhausted, we took a nap until about 6:30 pm, when we hobbled out to forage for dinner. We found Suzanne and John - we had dinner with them a couple nights ago at the albergue in Villar Mazarife. They asked us to join them for dinner and we had a wonderful time with them. They are a retired couple from Oregon, and have had an extremely interesting life. Have lived all over the world as part of John's job, and seem to live life to the fullest. We hope to catch up with them again in Santiago. 

One thing I am noticing more and more is that probably 80% of the walkers on the Camino now have a noticeable limp of some sort, whether from blisters or other. It is also a mainstay topic with anyone you meet. I myself tend to sort of "shuffle-limp." This walk is grueling physically - there is no other way to put it. However, the people you meet are well worth it. Realistically, I would advise anyone contemplating this walk to allow at least 40 days or more to factor in some rest days.

I realized yesterday that we are down to our last 10 days. Wow. 

Buen Camino!

Kim

May 18, 2015 Day 23 - Astorga --> Rabanal Del Camino - 20.6 K

May 18, 2015  Day 23 - Astorga --> Rabanal Del Camino - 20.6 K

Left the hotel in Astorga at approximately 7:15 am for a relatively short 13 mile day to Rabanal. Another clear bright blue sky. Cool temps. 

We wound through town past the Cathedral, then descended out into the countryside. The path was a slight incline up to the foothills of the mountains we had been seeing in the distance. Ran into Matthew from Austin, TX - hadn't seen him in a few days and we got caught up. 

After the extra long day yesterday, Donna indicated that she was really tired. Just didn't have much energy. I felt pretty good energy-wise, but was having pain in my left foot on the top of the foot and under the medial arch. We soldiered on to Ganso, where we stopped for hot tea and watermelon - a real treat. Thus fortified, we trudged on the last 5 K to Rabanal. At the very end, the path through the woods took on a steep rocky incline, then leveled out along a fence where pilgrims have attached various crude crosses. 

The paved road into Rabanal was a very steep incline. At the entrance was a man dressed like a medieval falconer with a bird named Yuly that would pose with you for pictures. Donna perked up and was delighted with the opportunity. I kinda enjoyed it as well.

We checked in to the Hostal Refugio next to the beautiful Benedictine monastery church before 1 pm, so had plenty of time to bathe, wash clothes, and eat lunch. This is a charming little hotel with a lot of character. We had the pilgrim's menu for lunch - green beans, roasted chicken in a scrumptuous sauce, and ice cream for dessert. The food was outstanding. Returned to the room to read Steve's book, nap and prop up my foot for the remainder of the afternoon. 

At about 6:00 pm, I walked over and checked out the church. It is my favorite so far - a very small and intimate chapel with stone walls and wooden benches. Very simple and serene. I stayed a while and just sat in silence.

Since we had a big lunch, neither of us was all that hungry, so we ate a snack in the room and headed to the bar for tea and a cafe con leche. We sat on bar stools amongst the drinkers as the piped in music played a rather chipper version of "Sweet Hour of Prayer", one of my grandmother's all time favorites. That segued into Simon and Garfunkel's "Sounds of Silence." About that time a bunch of pilgrims that we had dinner with the other night in Villar Mazarife came in and we all caught up on the last few days. 

All in all a good day, and some more time to rest and re-group. We will need all the help we can get tomorrow as we climb to La Cruz de Ferro - one of the most famous points on the Camino, and next to the highest point of the Camino. Tomorrow will also be a challenge since it is 25.6 K (approx. 16 miles), a fairly lengthy walk. I just pray that the feet hold up. 

As I prepare for bed and look out the window, I am watching a horse and a couple of cats interact with each other - obviously friends. Such simple pleasures. 

Buen Camino!

Kim

May 17, 2015 Day 22 - Villar de Mazarife --> Astorga - 31.2 K

May 17, 2015  Day 22 - Villar Mazarife --> Astorga - 31.2 K

Yesterday was a significant turning point for me on this journey. Today, for the first time, this became Donna's and my Camino. Not the Camino of "The Way", or the Camino of other friends and acquaintances that have walked previously, or the Camino for friends and family back home who are participating vicariously.  Our Camino. Up to yesterday, I had struggled with feeling distracted to the point I was having trouble being present in the moment. Distracted by all the prep for the walk, the physical challenge of the first days and weeks, communications from various aspects of my "normal" life back home, the change in my daily routine of study and prayer that I rely upon to keep me centered, etc. Today, I feel as though I have moved to another level physically. My legs feel strong, and still no blisters (knock on wood). Although my feet still hurt at the end of the day, I believe even that is improving. Or, at least, I am becoming more used to it. I no longer wonder if I will make it.

Yesterday was the first time I was able to just sit and relax with some uplifting readings given to me by my friend Steve. Brought me back to my center, and for the first time I was able to just let everything go and feel calm. I felt grateful and a joy. It also helped that I was able to eat healthy meals throughout the day. 

Breakfast at the albergue this morning was fabulous. Granola type cereal, good toast, and terrific coffee. The sun was still rising as Donna and I started walking at approximately 7:00 am. 

The first part of today's walk continued along a flat road with fields lining both sides. For the first time, I allowed myself to listen to the soundtrack from "The Way" - wonderful soul uplifting music  (mostly instrumental) that is perfect to walk or bicycle to. I don't usually listen to music as I prefer to concentrate on the sights and sounds. However, the music got me tuned in to the surroundings and I found myself noticing all sorts of little things - individual flowers, the birds, a snail crawling across the road, the emerging mountains in the distance. I was overwhelmed with gratitude and a release of all the worries and anxiety I have felt the past three weeks. It made me cry. I came up on my sister, and told her how I was feeling. That I felt an almost palpable shift to what is now our Camino - not someone else's. That  it dawned on me that we have been together almost constantly for three weeks now and I still love her and am glad to be on this adventure with her. That has been the primary goal for both of us from the start - to walk the Camino together. She agreed that she felt a change today as well. That we can finally enjoy the walk, not just endure the physical challenge and constantly be distracted by looking for the next hostal or meal. 

One of the highlights of the day was Hospital De Orbigo - a beautiful town with cobblestone streets and an old Romanesque bridge across the river. At the end of town, we elected the scenic option to Astorga, adding an additional 1K to the day's total. Congratulated ourselves on reaching the point that we would actually make that choice, knowing the feet would hurt at the end of the day. Eventually, the terrain began changing and we started a subtle climb. The mountains in the distance gave promise to more intense climbing to come in the next few days.

We stopped in Santibanez de Valdeiglesia for lunch. As we were leaving town and heading down the street, this little old Spanish woman yelled at us while pointing - we were going in the wrong direction and off the Camino. She set us straight, and we thanked her as she laughed. I asked for her picture, but she was too embarrassed and tried to hide. The kindness of strangers - again.

We trudged along the last 10 K uphill and through fields and woods. We finally came to a point where the city of Astorga was spread out before us with snow capped mountains in the distance. On we walked. It took probably another 45 minutes through the outskirts of town and then up a last steep hill to arrive at the city center and our hotel. We were beat, but mostly our feet were killing us. Our hotel was a godsend. Right on the square, and especially caters to pilgrims walking the Camino. The room was spacious and beautiful, and a huge soaking tub to boot. Complimentary drinks in the mini fridge. And a pilgrim's menu served right there throughout the day so we didn't have to eat late - no hunting or foraging for food. We thought we had died and gone to heaven. For dinner, we had spaghetti bolognese, stewed beef, and a sort of chocolate tiramisu type dessert. 

While waiting to be served dinner, I noticed the team of women bikers we saw yesterday on the Camino, and went over to ask questions. Turns out they are a group of 5 women from Australia riding from Leon to Santiago to raise funds for "Its Not Ok", a non-profit that addresses human trafficking in Asia. I spoke with the founder, Leigh, and got more information. They also have a USA arm of the organization. The website is itsnotok.com.  I hope to see them again during the walk.

Donna returned to the room and I walked around a little (a very little) to at least get a look at the cathedral before we head out tomorrow. While the cathedral is quite impressive, is is more or less sandwiched between buildings and on a very small street. Hard to get a good picture. Returned to the room and was ready to rest for the evening after skyping with Mom - today was her 83rd birthday. She looked great and we had a nice visit.

Tomorrow we hike to Rabanal del Camino - the highest point on the Camino. It is only 20.6 K (12.8 miles). However, coming off almost 20 miles today, and the fact that there will likely be a lot of climbing, it could be a hard day. The good news is that the hotel serves a breakfast buffet early at 6:30 am, so we should at least be adequately fueled and off to an early start. We also were able to book a room for tomorrow night, so won't be stressing over that. 

Been Camino!

Kim