We left Rabanal at approximately 7:15 am in somewhat cloudy conditions and headed into the mountains. I think the temps had reached into the high 30's or low 40's overnight, and this was the coldest day to date on our Camino walk. It was also quite windy, which made it feel even colder. I bundled up in several layers of clothes and gloves.
This was one of my favorite walks of the entire journey, although probably one of the hardest on me physically. I have started having some pain in my feet, particularly my left foot, aside from the end of the day foot pain. A lot of the climbing into, up and through the mountains was on narrow rocky paths, and this is particularly hard on the feet. However, the scenery throughout the day was beyond stunning - I cannot even describe it in any way that gives it justice.
In one word - Wildflowers. The mountains were totally blanketed in wildflowers. Primarily these purple-pink wildflowers. It was stunning. However, it did not stop there. There were also dense groups of white, yellow, purple, deep blue wildflowers all alongside the paths we walked throughout the day. Totally surrounded us. The pictures just don't do it justice. I kept thinking of a masterpiece of art and the Creator behind it.
We trekked through several small towns perched on the side of the mountain on our way up to La Cruz de Ferro. These little towns are like something out of medieval times in their rough stone buildings and animals. A lot of times you feel as though you have been transported back in time. La Cruz de Ferro is essentially a relatively small cross mounted atop a tall pole which is perched on a large mound of stones. People will leave stones at the base of the cross, or attach notes or other mementos. As seen in the movie, and read about in books on the Camino, this is often a place of significant meaning to pilgrims on the way. I took my various rocks, scallop shells and momentous and left them with blessings on those for whom they represented. However, I have to say I was a little disappointed with La Cruz de Ferro. First, it was located right beside a road, not atop a hill that you had to hike as I had pictured. Second, there was a big tour bus parked there, and the whole atmosphere had somewhat of a "circus" quality (my sister's description), that somewhat detracted from any reverential feeling. More of a somewhat frenzied feeling.
After La Cruz de Ferro, we walked for several hours through the mountains "oohing" and "aahing" at the scenery. In the distance, were windmills churning away. Eventually, we came over to the other side of the mountain and could see a large city spread in the valley. We started our steep descent on small paths. Along the way, we stopped for lunch in the village of Ascebo. This was a welcome respite. The sun had finally come out, but it was still cold enough to keep on the long sleeves.
The steep descent after Ascebo continued for what seemed like forever, mostly along rocky, gulch-like paths. The wildflowers still lined the sides of the paths, and it was quite beautiful. But the sore feet really started kicking in, only exacerbated by the extreme rocky conditions. I was literally to the point that I was taking one step at a time, and just praying to get there.
At about 3:00 pm, we sort of hobbled into Molinaseca, and found our hotel - a cute little family run home. There we had to climb three flights to our room at the top, which was quite lovely. However, no wi-if. Had to climb down the stairs to the first floor to use the Internet. After taking hot showers and getting cleaned up, Donna and I went down and found lodging for tomorrow at Villafranca. Another very long day of 30 K. Then,exhausted, we took a nap until about 6:30 pm, when we hobbled out to forage for dinner. We found Suzanne and John - we had dinner with them a couple nights ago at the albergue in Villar Mazarife. They asked us to join them for dinner and we had a wonderful time with them. They are a retired couple from Oregon, and have had an extremely interesting life. Have lived all over the world as part of John's job, and seem to live life to the fullest. We hope to catch up with them again in Santiago.
One thing I am noticing more and more is that probably 80% of the walkers on the Camino now have a noticeable limp of some sort, whether from blisters or other. It is also a mainstay topic with anyone you meet. I myself tend to sort of "shuffle-limp." This walk is grueling physically - there is no other way to put it. However, the people you meet are well worth it. Realistically, I would advise anyone contemplating this walk to allow at least 40 days or more to factor in some rest days.
I realized yesterday that we are down to our last 10 days. Wow.
Buen Camino!
Kim
Donna and Kim ... the initial picture of this post seems to convey happiness with what you are experiencing. Trod on my friends.
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