August 15, 2013

August 15, 2013 Cadillac --> Midland, MI - 84 miles

The condition of highway 115 for the first 15 miles or so was the least desirable to date. Heavy traffic and in many places in need of repair. Did see some nice wind turbines in the distance.




After approximately 20 miles, we veered off onto a county highway for 10 miles where we planned to pick up the Pere Marquette Rail Trail to Clare, our destination town for the day. At the point where we were to access the trail, we once again ran into the antics of the Google lady. She instructed us to turn right for approximately .5 of a mile, then go down a dirt road for .3 of a mile. At this point, she said "turn left onto the Pere Marquette trail." The only problem was that the trail was some 30 feet or more below us down an embankment with no obvious on-ramp. Just as we were about to back track and find our own way somewhere up the road to access the trail, I noticed a little clearing further down the dirt road. There was a small steep winding path down to the trail. Randy and I carried each bike together down the path - no small feat and a pretty good workout for him since he was on the back end carrying the bikes. However, our efforts were rewarded as we successfully navigated the embankment and got on the trail.











After riding on the trail for a couple of miles, we came upon an intersection of the trail with the road we had originally been on and realized the Google lady had once again played a cruel joke on us, as there was no need for the whole dirt road/hike down the embankment episode. We could have easily biked on at this point had we known about it. We are doubting Google lady's veracity more and more.

For the next 17 miles or so, we cruised along one of the best bike trails we have ever ridden. Flat, wide, smooth asphalt and with a little tailwind to boot. The surrounding terrain was pretty marshy at first, but gradually evolved into farmland. We saw many old interesting- looking barns and fields of corn and other crops. It was also nice to see a number of bikers out for day rides.

Originally we had planned to stop after 50 miles in Clare, MI. However, we arrived so early in the day and the riding conditions were so perfect that we decided to continue on the Pere Marquette trail another 30 miles to Midland. While there were some clouds, the sun was quite bright and it warmed up to probably the high 70's. Simply, a beautiful day with perfect bike riding. Because there were no traffic concerns, you could just drift along with your thoughts and the scenery.



A couple of miles before Midland, Randy and I were talking about how we had not seen hardly any other touring bikers and had had very few real interactions with people during this ride, which was very different from last years' ride. Not five minutes later, we came upon a gentleman with a loaded touring bike coming from the other direction. We stopped to chat, and he told us his name was Larry. He was on his way back to Ludington, MI after biking across Michigan primarily on the Pere Marquette. It appears that Larry is retired and just really started getting into the bike touring gig. He was very enthusiastic and told us about a couple of other riders a couple of hours ahead of us that are touring. We told Larry a little about our rides, and as we prepared to leave I gave him one of my bike ride "business cards" with the blog cite. Larry then gave me $5 towards the ALS cause, saying that it came out of some money his wife had given him to spend on the trip. I was touched to say the least.


We found a nice motel in Midland and after checking in Randy biked to a convenience store for some purchases. When he returned to the motel, he was met in the lobby by a man who said he had seen Randy on his bike at the convenience store. After asking a few questions about the ride, this man told Randy that he did not have to be anywhere for a while and offered Randy the use of his car for a few hours if he wanted. Randy declined, but this was just another example of the kindness of strangers. I never quite get over how amazing and kind people are to us.

Tomorrow we push on. Unfortunately, I believe we have run out of the Pere Marquette Trail. However, at least the forecast is for continued good weather.

August 14, 2013

                                               Photo from Monday's ride

August 14, 2013 Traverse City --> Cadillac, MI - 50 miles

We decided to go off the ACA route maps again and head for Cadillac MI approximately 50 miles away. There was a bike shop just a few blocks from our motel, so we stopped in to get advice regarding the best roads to take, and to ask if there were any bike trails. Randy had not slept well last night and was already tired. What became apparent soon after we left the bike shop was that Randy was asking for something totally different than the guy was answering and/or Randy was hearing something different than the guy was saying. Because we were only a mile or so away before already feeling lost. We pulled out our iPhones and Google maps to plug in Cadillac. My Google lady immediately chimed in and "took control" of the situation. She has a very commanding voice. At her insistence, we ended up on a dirt road for a few miles. Then, Google lady apparently changed her mind because she started instructing us to backtrack from where we had come. At that point, we rebelled and took another road. Google lady recovered quickly and got back on board. Now that I think about it, I must have looked pretty funny bending my head down towards my handlebar bag to hear the Google lady speak. Shaking my head and talking back at the bag when I disagreed. At any rate, we did finally end up on a road we recognized as crucial. The truth of the matter is that we felt lost, but really weren't when all was said and done. Sort of a metaphor for life sometimes.

The first 20 miles of the day were on probably the worst roads so far. Narrow and very little shoulder with many cracks and potholes. Traffic was pretty heavy. Finally, we turned on to a state highway with broad, smoothly paved shoulders and for the next 17 miles or so pretty much cruised. Stopped at a Subway in Manton for lunch, then rode the final 10 miles to Cadillac.

Our motel was located on the other side of Lake Cadillac from town and somehow it seems we ended up riding 3-4 miles all the way around the lake, rather than going directly to the motel. Seemed like the theme of the day - hard time following directions. Lost Randy shortly after checking in as he was desperate for a nap after having a rough night sleeping. So, I went for a short walk to take a few pictures for the blog, had a nice long soak in the tub, then headed for Subway for my now favorite chopped chicken salad.









I feel good and think I will sleep well tonight.

August 13, 2013

My Rest Wood Motel room

August 13, 2013 --> Rest day in Traverse City, MI

Woke up this morning to cloudy, overcast skies and temperatures in the 50's. Gusty winds. The forecast is for possible thunderstorms in the early afternoon. Tomorrow the weather is supposed to clear up with sunny skies. Randy and I met for breakfast and agreed that we would stay in Traverse City for another night. I had scoped out a little motel named Rest Wood right next door to the Motel 6. It was $12 cheaper (pays for dinner), so we moved over there. I have stayed in a wide variety of accommodations over the years, but I have to say this may be the first "shed". All in all, it met the requirements of clean, safe and reasonably priced.

We were situated on the east shore of the bay, and I went for a nice walk down to a beach across from the state park. I believe the more popular part of Traverse City that I have always heard about is on the west shore. Randy and I discussed biking there on our way out tomorrow morning. I spent a little time sitting on a bench and watching the sea gulls.











After returning to the motel, I did a little re-organizing and took nap. Later met Randy and we walked to a little Italian restaurant for dinner. I had penne pasta with steamed veggies in Alfredo sauce. Fueled for the ride to Mesick or Cadillac tomorrow. Back to the motel for a low-keyed rest of the evening. I really enjoyed this quiet day off.

August 12, 2013

August 12, 2013 Petoskey --> Traverse City, MI - 65 miles

We decided to push ahead toward Traverse City since there were not many motel options at the small towns along the way. Fortunately, the Little Traverse Wheelway bike trail ran the first 15 miles or so to Charlevoix, MI. This is a beautifully paved bike path that runs through many shaded tree-lined areas and fields of wild flowers. Occasionally, there are breakthroughs with stunning views of Lake Michigan. At points where the bike path crosses streets, there are often beautifully manicured flower beds. We could not have asked for more perfect weather - blue skies and moderate temperature.












We cruised along at a leisurely 8-10 mph, stopping frequently to take pictures. At one point along the way, there was an apple tree right next to the bike path. I stopped to pick a few apples and Randy snapped a picture.




The path ended in Charlevoix, a beautiful lakeside town bustling full of tourists. There was one tree-lined street leading into town with the most gorgeous large old homes situated right on the water, many of which sported large wrap-around porches. The lawns were immaculate with large flower beds in full bloom. For the last 1/2 mile or so of the road leading into and out of Charlevoix, the sidewalks on both sides of the road were bordered with a solid line of colorful pansies. The feel was festive.




Alas, the scenery and festive feel ended quite abruptly as we followed Hwy 31 S towards Traverse City. While the shoulder was adequate and the road conditions were okay, we started running into a series of moderate headwinds and rolling hills that slowed our progress somewhat. Plus, no more stunning scenery. We trudged along a good 20 miles or so and were starting to wear down, so found a little cafe near Torch Lake to re-fuel for the remaining 20-30 miles. The waitress was friendly and bustling around at warp speed, but it soon became apparent that she was not that efficient despite all the motion. We had to constantly repeat things, and when it became time to leave we asked that she divide the ticket so we could pay for our meals separately. When she came back she had divided the ticket literally in half, rather than according to what we had ordered. As if we weren't able to divide by two. The look on Randy's face was priceless. There is another story in connection with this lunch that I will remember forever, but will not re-count here. Something to do with apple pie a la mode. Let's just say Randy and I will be laughing about that story and its lesson for me the remainder of the Tour of the Leaves ride.

We continued on towards Traverse City. Rode up and down hills, had a few little tailwinds along the way that were appreciated, starting passing by many orchard farms and fruit stands.
Then I saw one of the most incredible sights I have ever seen anywhere in all my travels- acres and acres and acres of sunflowers in full bloom as far as you could see. All sizes of sunflowers densely packed together, with the largest size bigger than my head. There is no way to begin to describe the joy and wonder I felt looking at those sunflowers. The sunflower is my favorite flower anyway, and this just blew me away. I think even Randy was a little in awe. I told Randy "this is a sign." Of what, I don't know - it just felt so special. Made me feel special. My own very special blessing. I'll never forget it.

After tearing myself away from the sunflowers, we continued on to Acme, where we stopped at the McDonalds to use the wi-fi to locate a place to stay for the night. It took some effort, but we finally found a Motel 6 near Traverse City that was more reasonable than most motels in the area. There was another paved bike trail called the TART Trail that would take us the remaining 3 miles or so to the motel. As we were floundering about a little looking for the trailhead, we pulled over into a parking lot and started pulling out our phones with the google maps. A man pulled in behind and asked if we were looking for the trail. He enthusiastically directed us across the street and behind some trees where we could access the trail. Started telling us about some of his own touring experiences and seemed genuinely blessed to have the opportunity to help us out. We thanked him and crossed the busy highway to access the trail. As we reached the other side, another man came up and asked if we were looking for the trail. He threw in his two cents and we finally actually got on the trail. More examples of the kindness of strangers we often encounter during these rides. People really do love to be helpful. 

We arrived at the Motel 6 and gratefully checked in around 6 pm or so. I was really tired, and am still looking for a good half day or so to just rest somewhere and do nothing. Plus, the weather forecast for Tuesday is 20-30 mile gusty winds and possible thunder storms in the afternoon. Randy and I will meet later and decide on a plan of action for tomorrow.

August 11, 2013

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO RANDY !! 65 yrs old - another milestone met

August 11, 2013 St. Ignace --> Petoskey, MI - 55 miles




Awoke to a beautiful sunrise over Lake Huron. One thing I had not realized was that Lake Michigan and Lake Huron are connected - the separation of the two lakes is the Mackinac Bridge, a five mile span connecting St. Ignace and Mackinac City.




We rode the 1/2 mile from the Cedar Hill Motel to the Mackinac Bridge. Bikers are not allowed to ride across the bridge, and we contacted the bridge authority to arrange for transportation across the bridge. The cost is $5.00 per bike and they take you over in a pickup truck. The lady driver told us that she had transported probably 20 touring bikers over the past few weeks. I again felt like this confirmed we are probably a couple of weeks behind most riders who started a cross-country ride from the west coast along the Northern Tier.







From Mackinac City, we rode along the shores of Lake Michigan to Petoskey. What struck me most was the hodge lodge of different terrains we rode throughout the day. Started with terrain similar to what we had experienced through Wisconsin along small, mostly flat county roads. However, we then came upon roads that ran alongside the shore with beautiful views of Lake Michigan, and many beaches and places you could stop along the way. At that point, we began encountering more hills and inclines, and even arrived at the top of one hill to find sand dunes all around. There were sand dune "sledders" going down one hill. The route then turned somewhat inland onto more undulating county roads. A number of road bikers passed us coming and going and cheerfully waved. It was nice to see people out enjoying the lovely day and riding bikes.




We stopped at Cross Village and lunched at a convenience store, which was pretty much all there was. Then, proceeded up and down hills to Harbor Springs, a lovely town where we picked up a paved bicycle trail all the way to Petoskey, our destination town for the night. The disadvantage of the bike trail was that we were off road and if there were any available small motels we could not see them. When we arrived in town late in the afternoon, we had a hard time finding reasonably priced lodging. Plus, we were tired and hungry at that point and not thinking all that clear. We finally located a Days Inn, and were delighted to find that they had a special "biker's rate." Plus, they had a special Cafe Internet with all sorts of food available for free, as long as you ate it there. For example, they had 6 different kinds of soup; TV dinners; frozen pizza; several choices of cereal; chips; ice cream; breads for sandwiches; jello...on and on. Admittedly mostly unhealthy stuff, but you could find some relatively healthy items as well. I mostly filled up on various soups. It was nice not to have to venture out to find dinner. Another big plus was the popcorn machine in the lobby that popped popcorn like at the movies. You could take that back to the room.

My "neighbors" at the motel were this middle-aged couple from Ontario who had just completed their first 40 mile ride in the area and looked exhausted. They are just getting into biking and were especially intrigued when they saw me come in on my bike. Had a million questions about bike touring and biking in general. It was fun talking to them. Later, as I was returning from dinner, I found the man smoking outside the room and I commented "that's the first thing that has to go.." He took it well and sheepishly smiled - a cheerful fellow. When I returned again later after a popcorn run, he was out there again and sheepishly hid his hand behind his back - I laughed and told him no worries.

Tomorrow we head on towards Traverse City.

August 10, 2013

August 10, 2013 - Rest day in St. Ignace, MI

I awoke very happy that we had pushed yesterday to ride the 88 miles all the way to St. Ignace and the Cedar Hill Lodge. The weather was stunning. Bright, clear blue skies and cool, with the projected high of around 70.

Randy and I decided to take our bikes and ferry across to Mackinac Island. I have always heard that Mackinac Island was a special place, but was unprepared for just how magical it would feel. The feeling as we stepped off the ferry was something akin to scenes from old movies around the turn of the century. No motorized vehicles allowed and bikes everywhere. Bustling crowds. Excitement in the air.








There is an approximately 7 mile loop around the island that almost overwhelms the senses. Beautiful, large, immaculately landscaped Victorian houses with gorgeous flower gardens. Large green lawns where people spread out on white Adirondack chairs to relax and picnic. Unbelievable ocean views. Shady lanes and horse drawn carriages. Because it is so flat and entirely geared for leisurely bike riding, you encounter people of all ages cruising along. One commonly seen feature are cairns that have been built or people are building along the way, often representing some unknown spiritual quest or inner desire. I could only imagine the stories connected with those cairns. Some are quite impressive. There were also some high cliff-like rock formations you could hike up. And the fort overlooking it all from the top of the hill by the harbor. In all, this casual ride around the island had the feel somewhat of Disney World.










We had lunch at a little lane side cafe across from a large green lawn with a beautiful gazebo surrounded by a massive blooming flower garden. Harp music wafted through the air, and it was them that we realized that a wedding was about to start. So, as we sat there eating our chef salads, we were witnesses to the wedding. The bride was gorgeous and had this amazing wedding dress. The groom looked happy and, in all, there were probably no more than 20 official attendees, all arrayed in the most fashionable of dress. I said a quiet prayer of blessing on this unknown couple and threw in their guests to boot. After the wedding, the preacher hopped on his bicycle and pedaled away.












For the next couple of hours we explored the downtown and surrounding area, then caught the ferry back to St. Ignace. Since Randy's birthday is tomorrow, we later rode into town and had dinner at The Anchor, which I had been told is the best in town. Friendly, family restaurant with good food. We topped off the birthday dinner with ice cream at the Bentley Cafe.

Tomorrow we are going to cross the Mackinac Bridge to Mackinac City and continue the ride in the direction of Traverse City.

August 9, 2013

August 9, 2013 Manistique --> St. Ignace - 88 miles

Manistique was such a lovely and restful town that we tried to extend our stay at the Northshore Motor Inn for another night and take a rest day. However, since it was Friday the motel was already booked up for the weekend. On to plan #2 - head along the shores of Lake Michigan towards St. Ignace (across from Mackinac Island) some 88 miles away. Efforts to locate lodging halfway or so along the way were unsuccessful, so I began resigning myself to a possible camping adventure in Daubinway.





It had rained overnight and into early morning, and it was still overcast and cloudy as we started out at approximately 10:00 am. Luckily, the forecast was for the clouds to pretty much clear as the day progressed. We had no sooner pulled out from the motel driveway when Randy discovered his rear tire going flat. So, we turned right back in to change the flat.



Once underway, the ride was similar to the previous rides. Good roads, etc. A fair tailwind. However, pretty heavy traffic. During a water break, we discussed where we might stop for the night. One alternative was to take a turn at Gould and travel north to Newberry, where there were many motel options. However, that meant a 70 mile ride to St. Ig on Saturday and an additional 20-30 miles overall. I suggested we consider riding all the way to St. Ig (long 88 mile day) and taking a rest day off on Saturday. Meant a big push, but with the good riding conditions it was doable. This is what we finally decided to do later in the day.

The view coming in to St Ig was lovely and we settled in at a very reasonably priced locally owned motel for 2 days. Tomorrow we will rest, explore, etc.

August 8, 2013

August 8, 2013 Escanaba ---> Manistique, MI - 53.2 miles

The ride today along and around the shores of Lake Michigan was a delightful change in scenery. Lake Michigan is huge and has more of the feel of the ocean than of a lake.





We rode through a few quaint towns before getting back on state highway 2 the remainder of the way to Manistique. One such town was Gladstone. There was a lovely park on the water with gorgeous views. And several trees with leaves beginning to turn colors. Randy stopped and spoke with a couple of park workers who were on bicycles pulling carts with their tools. They indicated that they loved the work and town.





Most of the remaining ride to Manistique was more of the flat, well-paved variety and we cruised quite easily. The sun came out, and it warmed to the 70's. We arrived in Manistique at approximately 2:30 pm and checked into the Northshore Motel, a lovely locally owned little motel located just outside town and across the street from the water and boardwalk. We biked into town to find an ATM, then parted ways for the afternoon. I stopped by a little coffee shop and had a good strong cappuccino - the first since the start of the ride. Good coffee has been hard to find and I often have to supplement with a little Starbucks Via. This cappuccino hit the spot. I then headed to Subway because I was starving. Back to the motel.





I decided that if I were going to walk to the shore and see any of the boardwalk I had better do it right away, because if I showered or sat down I would be finished. Randy was already perched on the bench outside his room and had that "I'm done for the day" look. So, off I went for a walk on the boardwalk toward town. What a beautiful path. Saw lots of gulls and the flora alongside the path was interesting to look at. But mostly what caught my eye was the red lighthouse in the distance. I made the lighthouse my goal destination. Meanwhile, dark clouds moved in and out. No rain, but cool, windy and moving clouds. I stopped to take various pictures of the lighthouse from different angles, but could never seem to get good light. Eventually, I arrived at the lighthouse after hiking out on the quay. I spent a few moments just listening to the water and wind, and said a quiet prayer of thanks for the opportunity to ride as well as the many blessings in my life. Also re-committed myself to stay the course with regard to my quest to discover what God has in store for my second-half-of-life vocation.









I spent the remainder of the evening quietly resting at the motel and looking for places to stay the next couple of nights. Unfortunately, doesn't look good between here and St. Ignace, and camping may be in our immediate future - unless, of course, one of those unadvertised "mirage motels" appears out of nowhere. I am praying that the weather remains good and no rain.

We are now 1 week into the ride. Seems like a lot longer than a week since I left Atlanta to fly to Minneapolis. Not in a bad way, just a little strange. This ride has a whole different feel than the TRANSAMERICA last summer. Again, not bad, just different. I guess the best way to describe it is a continual sense of quiet contemplation. Maybe it has something to do with the reduced stress from knowing more of what to expect from the ride standpoint rather than the unknown from last year. Or maybe because the riding conditions themselves have been so easy - flat, smoothly paved, wide-shouldered roads. Very nice and clean motels in each stop. Good food. For whatever reasons, there is a discernible difference in the character of the ride. Not bad, just different.

Tomorrow we ride on towards St. Ignace, probably stopping to camp somewhere near Daubinway.

August 7, 2013

August 7, 2013 Iron Mountain --> Escanaba, MI. - 56.5 miles

Started the day with a late breakfast at the family restaurant across the street. We had been told by the motel owners that if we requested the "special" we would get eggs, bacon, hash browns and a large pancake for $3.99. This was not on the menu and you had to have insider knowledge to get it. So, when the waitress came to get our order, we spoke the "magic words" and received this wonderful breakfast. The only glitch was that there had been a price increase to $4.99, which we dutifully reported back to the motel owners, much to their chagrin.

The motel owners told me their interesting story. They have been married for over 50 years and own two homes in Arizona. They bought the motel at auction for their two sons to run together. However, after a falling out between the sons, the parents were forced to step in and take over running the place. Now, they would like to sell the motel and return to a life of retirement, but the process is not simple. I responded with my familiar mantra, "life is too short", with which they agreed. These folks did their best to make our stay as comfortable as possible, and were very interested in hearing about the ride.

We left Iron Mountain at approximately 10 am under cloudy skies. The temperature was in the 50-60's range. Once again, good roads for riding and we cruised along for approximately 10 miles until we came upon the Iron Mountain Iron Mine. We had been told my the motel owners that there was a tour of the mine that was well worth seeing, and we stopped to check it out. However, we decided that we weren't willing to take the the time or pay the fee and decided to move on. Neither Randy or I are big on stopping and sightseeing as such. Our main emphasis is the ride itself and what we see from there, with occasional exceptions. I think this is one reason we are such compatible traveling companions. I know of others who prefer to stop at just about every monument, historical site and lookout.






The bike maps and Google map both showed a bike trail for the last 22 miles of the ride to Escanaba. We generally like good bike trails and decided to try and find this one. To access the trail meant following an out of the way back road for approximately 2 miles. And with no assurance that it was a good trail - we had been unable to independently confirm the condition of the trail beforehand. Along the way, out in the country, we came across a house and a young man cutting the large yard's grass. Randy stopped to ask about the bike trail, and the young man went inside to get his grandmother, who told us that the trail was gravel and more for atv's. She strongly advised that we did not want to ride the trail on bicycle. This was an example of what we sometimes run into - directions that are inaccurate or don't adequately describe conditions that have a huge affect on biking. And often the distances you have to ride to access off the highway trail heads is several miles. Nothing if you are driving in a car, but can take a significant amount of time if you have to back track on a bike. At any rate, armed with this new information, we thanked the lady and her grandson and proceeded to back track and resumed the ride on the state highway. They again exemplified the kindness of strangers we constantly encounter on these rides.








Continuing on towards Escanaba, we entered the Eastern Time Zone. Angry looking clouds began to gather and I was afraid we might have a downpour in the making. Gratefully, we seemed to skirt the storm, and arrived at the Sunset Lodge just north of Escanaba at approximately 4 pm. This small motel is owned by a young couple who left corporate jobs in Baltimore to opt for a more laid back life where they could actually spend time with and raise their children. In Baltimore, their daughter was in day care most of the day. Jared told us that he had ridden bicycle cross-country on the TRANSAMERICA route several years ago. Since Randy and I had both started last summers' ride on the TRANSAMERICA route, it was fun to compare notes with Jared and reminisce again.

Tomorrow we bike along Lake Michigan to Manistique. The forecast is for clear sunny skies.