June 29, 2016 Grande Ronde --> Pacific City, OR - 43 miles

After a good night's sleep, I spent a leisurely morning with my studies and a good cup of coffee. Met Randy for breakfast, and we were off by 9:00 am. I felt much more rested and excited about today's ride since we were re-tracing parts of the 2012 Transam ride.

It was quite cloudy and cool. The first 5 miles or so were along a fairly flat 2 lane highway. Then we began a long slow climb into the Van Duzer Forest Corridor. This was a beautiful stretch of highway bordered by large pine trees on both sides, with views of hills and mountains in the distance. We were finally rewarded with a nice downhill cruise after approximately 10-12 miles into Rose Lodge. 

There we got off the highway onto the North Bank Rd for approximately 3 miles. This is one of my favorite roads to date. Beautiful wild flowers of every hue - white, red, pink, blue, yellow, orange - you name it. No traffic. Basically, a lovely country road and no hills, so we cruised along. At one point, I came upon a couple of friendly horses who seemed to be enjoying the day.

At the end of the road, we turned left and stopped at the Otis Cafe for a snack. This cafe is a must stop. I ate breakfast here in 2012, and it was nothing short of a culinary experience. And their breads and pastries are homemade wonders. So, for my snack, I had a slice of their apple pie a la mode. I won't even begin to describe it - just take a look. Randy had a good looking walnut cinnamon roll with milk.

The next phase of the ride was a 10 mile stint called Slab Creek Rd. It is essentially a 5 mile climb through more forested areas bordered with those windflowers. At the top, another 5 mile cruise. We saw at most two cars the entire time, so had the road to ourselves. The funny thing was that I had remembered this Slab Creek ride as being much more difficult, albeit beautiful. However, I had ridden it within the first few days of the 2012 ride when I was still getting my bike legs and bearings. Funny - now it is a fun ride.

When we reached the end of Slab Creek Rd., we came upon two men on fully loaded touring bikes. I almost jumped with joy. We have seen few other riders. Earlier today, we had seen a couple of riders on a recumbent bike, but that was on the main highway and they were going in the opposite direction. These two riders were from Great Britain and Germany, headed for San Francisco. We chatted for a few minutes, then continued onto to Highway 101. Shortly thereafter, we saw a lone woman on a touring bike. She smiled and gave us a broad wave.

We faced some strong winds the next 10-15 miles to Pacific City. Off in the distance we began to see the Pacific Ocean. Also saw some marshlike land and water inlets, including one where a blue heron stood fishing.

We rolled into Pacific City around 2 pm, and found a lovely little motel. I had been cold most of the day, and took a hot bath after cleaning the bike. Settled in for a leisurely afternoon, then walked down to the Sports Pub and Grub for dinner. Randy had opted for Mexican take out earlier so he could watch the Arizona baseball team play in the final game of the College World Series.

Tomorrow we continue riding up the Oregaon coast. Looks like temps in the 60's, and I suspect it will somewhat windy, so I will dress in layers. 

June 28, 2016 Corvallis --> Grande Ronde - 48 miles

For some reason, I did not sleep very well last night. Having stayed up well past my regular bedtime for several days in a row, I am feeling a little tired. Or maybe just coming down after the high of the past few days spending time with my friends.

Met Randy for breakfast at the Broken Yolk, and had blueberry pancakes. Fuel for another 48 mile ride today. We walked to the post office after breakfast to mail some items home that we no longer needed/wanted. Returned to the motel via the path beside the river.

Finally got off at around 9:30 am. Another beautiful day. Both of us were still in high spirits from the weekend. However, I was saddened by the news that Pat Summit passed away yesterday. I first met Pat when I was 13 or 14 years old at a basketball camp in Brevard NC where she was my camp counselor. This is the same camp where I later met Jody Conradt, who became my college coach. Pat had just finished her senior year at UT-Martin, and was training for the World University Games. She was an amazing player and I loved watching her scrimmage with the other counsellors. You could tell she intimidated people with her steely determination and physical strength. She definitely made an impression on me as a young player. 

The roads today were not quite as flat, and we had several inclines along the way. More beautiful scenery. Fields of flowers at various points. It was quite warm, and I started feeling some knee/hip pain. After about 30 miles, I was feeling more tired than usual. Randy said that his legs were feeling tired as well. 

At Grande Ronde, we decided to check in at the Spirit Mountain Casino Lodge since there did not appear to be any motel options for another 25 miles. Wow - beautifully appointed rooms and fabulous beds. I took a long soak in the tub and a much needed nap. Then, off to dinner. Returned to the room to try and catch up on the blog.

I am committed to an early night, and hope to feel more with it in the morning. We will likely shoot for Pacific City, as we head up the Oregon Coast. Hard to believe we are starting our third week already.

June 27, 2016 Eugene --> Corvallis - 47 miles

Maxine was in full "Mom mode" this morning and insisted that I needed a hearty breakfast to fuel today's ride to Corvallis. I forced myself to indulge in the delectable delights set before me - all my favorites. You know, so as not to hurt her feelings. Wrong - it was awesome! Meanwhile, Maxine set about fixing a healthy picnic lunch for me and Randy, including turkey sandwiches, roasted almonds, some sort of granola bites whose names I can't remember, and an apple. 

As we were preparing to leave for Nancy's house, Maxine was scurrying around and mentioned that she did not get to tell/show me some things she had wanted. For example, a CD of songs written and performed by their daughter Olivia. Other stuff. I loved the fact that she enjoys sharing thoughts, feelings, stories, books and time with me. How special that makes me feel. It reminds me of how my Mom and I can spend a week together in constant conversation, and yet when I get home I will almost always remember something I forgot to tell her and will have to call immediately. 

When we drove up to Nancy's house, Randy was sitting on the steps with the paper. He had such a happy, contented look on his face, and his body language conveyed that he had also experienced a wonderful time with his friends. We were both in this almost zen like state. After a sweet-sad goodbye to Maxine, Randy and I loaded the bikes and hit the road.

We were able to access the Riverbank Path System a few streets from Nancy's house, and took that all the way through Eugene to Hwy 99W. Cool temps and bright blue skies - perfect conditions. All sorts of interesting scenery along the way. 

We exited the bike path after about 5 miles, and picked up the highway to Corvallis. There was an adequate shoulder, and the road was essentially flat the whole way. Lots of interesting farms and fields along the way. At about the halfway point, we stopped at a roadside park and had our fabulous picnic lunch. Maxine's gift. Shared with each other all we had done on Saturday and Sunday with our friends. Agreed that our time in Ashland and Eugene had been extraordinary. 

It was quite warm and I found myself stopping frequently to drink water. When I mentioned that for some reason I was so "parched", Randy gave me that wry grin and said, "must be all that smiling." What a beautiful day for biking. 

We arrived in Corvallis around 3:00 pm and found a reasonably priced motel on the river in Corvallis. For dinner, we shared a delicious pizza with cheese, mushrooms, pineapple and Italian sausage. We discussed the upcoming route for the next week or so, and continued reveling in our weekend adventures. 

Tomorrow we start working our way to the Oregon coast. Essentially retracing in reverse the Transamerica route I rode in 2012. It will be fun to see how it looks today.

June 26, 2016 Rest day in Eugene

I slept like a log, and got up around 6 am, looking forward to good coffee and my morning routine. Bean greeted me briefly, then was off to more important cat things. Maxine joined me a little later, and for breakfast I had granola with fresh blueberries, strawberries and cantaloupe. Also had the most delicious scone. 

Maxine and I went to church, and I felt such a sense of gratitude and renewal of spirit. Sort of a culmination of the Crater Lake experience and the special time I have spent the past few days with my friends. A visiting youth choir from Seattle that was in Eugene for a competition performed several outstanding songs. The words and music touched me on some deep level that moved me to tears. The sermon, given by a retired pastor, centered on Romans 12 and felt especially relevant. “Do not conform yourselves to the standards of this world, but let God transform you inwardly by a complete change of your mind. Then you will be able to know the will of God—what is good and is pleasing to him and is perfect." I have found that bike touring is definitely a wonderful deviation from what most consider the world's norm, and renews or changes my thinking and ability to discern in positive ways. 

After church, Maxine, Bob and I took a scenic drive to King's Estate Winery for a late afternoon lunch/early dinner. As we drove up the hill to the restaurant,we were treated to the sight of a huge blanket of lavender that covered the hill. It was stunning. Our meal was superb, and afterward Maxine and I took a wine tour. We met a couple of cyclists on the tour, with whom I compared notes and shared stories. The whole King's Estate experience was delightful. 

After returning home, we had pie and ice cream, walked the dogs, then settled in to watch "The Way".

This 2010 film starting Martin Sheen is the film that inspired me and my sister, as well as countless others, to walk the Camino de Santiago in Spain. 

I love the time I have spent with Maxine and Bob. They exude such a calm, peaceful and loving countenance that serves as a model for how I would like to be when present with others. They are reasonable human beings with a good sense of humor. At times I have felt the comparison with the biblical teachings regarding how to treat strangers - they always make this "stranger" feel as if I am a loved member of the family. Speaking of family, one of the things that struck me in 2012, and again on this visit, is the way Maxine and Bob's faces literally light up with joy when they talk about their three daughters and what incredible women they have become. I have never met their girls, but maybe some day if I am ever biking this way again.....

June 25, 2016 Ashland --> Eugene via transport by John and Suzanne

Awoke once again to a stunningly beautiful day at Suzanne and John's in Ashland. Sounding like a broken record? If, so, that is one I want to keep repeating.

Went through my morning routine, then joined Suzanne for breakfast. John was out on his routine morning walk. John is quite athletic and fit, and has done several marathons. I remember watching John on the Camino and being impressed by his pace and stamina. Suzanne is also very active and fit, and when I see the mountains and the hills they hike around here on a regular basis, it is impressive. I'm not sure I could begin to keep up with them. They exude such positive energy in everything I have seen them do. Great role models.

After breakfast, Suzanne took Randy and I for a tour of the inside of the house. The house is tastefully decorated to reflect reminders of their travels and places they have lived overseas through the years. There are also many photos of family, past and present. Suzanne recounted the history of how they came to find the house, and all the renovations they had made. Described the design planning process, and the fact that John has done a lot of the work on the house himself. As with the outside projects, the scope and quality of John's work was impressive. An example of John's cabinetry design is in the attached photo.

John and Randy loaded up the truck for the drive to Eugene. When originally planning the bike ride, we had had some difficulty figuring out how to get from Ashland to Eugene, and Suzanne offered to have them drive us to Eugene. In reality, she offered in order to keep us an additional night in Ashland. It is always nice to be wanted, and we readily agreed to stay another night in such a beautiful place with this engaging couple. 

The trip to Eugene took about 3 hours. More fun conversation. Suzanne and I sat on little jump seats covered with pillows in the "back seat" of the cab. Upon arrival in Eugene, we found a cafe for lunch where we could sit outside and keep an eye on the bikes. I had that kind of feeling where you know something good is coming to an end, and you are sort of prolonging the moment. 

Suzanne and John then dropped us off at the house where Randy's friend Nancy lives, and we said goodbye. 

I had arranged to stay with my friends Maxine and Bob while in Eugene, and I waited at Nancy's house for Maxine to come and pick me up.  I first met Maxine and Bob four years ago when I stayed with them while on the Transamerica bike ride. Maxine and my good friend Nathalie (co-founder of Truth Be Told) were childhood friends in Houston, and Nathalie asked them to put me up. I felt an immediate connection with Maxine and Bob, and the time we spent together was one of the most special experiences of the 2012 Transamerica ride for me. We had all sorts of interesting conversations, and shared a common point of view on most everything. And I felt as though I had found a sort of spiritual soul mate in Maxine. 

Maxine, Bob and I spent the rest of Saturday catching up and engaging in more of those conversations I enjoyed so much on my last visit. More or less picked up where we had left off. I also reconnected with Hermes and Julian, and made new friends with Ralu (spelling?) and, most importantly, Bean the cat. 

We went out for dinner at a restaurant called Cornucopia, where I had a delicious Asian Oriental Chicken Salad. Then we returned home and I fell into bed exhausted, but feeling extremely blessed and happy after a very full day.

June 24, 2016 Rest Day in Ashland

Awoke to another perfectly beautiful day. Cool temps and bright blue sky. Most importantly, good coffee and peaceful silence in which to read, study and pray to start the day. I am a big fan of Richard Rohr, and while on this ride have been studying his book "Simplicity - the Freedom of Letting Go". I especially enjoyed the chapter on contemplative prayer. Emptying out the mind of distractions and everyday concerns in order to create soul space in which we listen and recognize whatever it is that we are meant to hear and/or learn in the present moment.  A way of centering myself as I begin the day. The emphasis here is on "listening" and really "hearing". I confess sometimes I don't hear anything at all when I sit in quiet. Or I have difficulty letting go of anxious thoughts about the future, over which I have no control.  Other times, I may just feel and experience a general sense of well-being or grace - unmerited blessings or favor. Or a comforting awareness that no matter how difficult or sad the circumstances I am facing, I am not alone. I am loved. Every once in a while, I will get a clear message. In any event, and most significantly, I almost always emerge with an overwhelming sense of gratitude. I feel thankful for all that I am blessed to experience - good and bad - because it allows me to feel compassion for others in their circumstances. Out of compassion, I can feel love for others. And isn't that what it is all about anyway? Just to be clear, those who know me also know I am no saint and often do not walk the walk perfectly. I am well aware of my own personality quirks and shortcomings. However, I do aspire to learn and grow in my ability to hear, see and do it differently. And contemplative prayer has become a mainstay in that process.

Often, when I ride my bike in such beautiful surroundings as Oregon - especially and most recently the Crater Lake experience - I feel as though I am engaged in a contemplative prayer-like experience. I love the physicality, combined with the awe and wonder of God's creation. It opens my heart, and in that space I know that God's creation is good. And, as one of God's creations, I am good.

On to the day...

I had a wonderful breakfast of granola with fresh blueberries and toasted cranberry bread. John, Suzanne and I started reminiscing and telling Camino stories, as I had my Camino slideshow rolling in the background on my iPad. 

We then took off on a tour of Ashland. Suzanne is an expert tour guide and a wealth of information. I can not even begin to recount all she taught us. But it was fascinating. She educated us on the Oregon Shakespeare Festival and all the history and current goings on in Ashland. We rode through the beautiful neighborhoods surrounding the city, and saw the hills and parks through which John and Suzanne regularly hike. We then parked the car and walked to town.

We saw the various theatres and complex where the Oregon Shakespeare Festival is located. OSF is internationally known and recognized, and the work is amazing. I believe the season is approximately 10 months long. There were a group of college students practicing at a small outdoor stage before a grassy knoll for the performance on the Green Stage later that evening. The large Elizabethan Theatre next door was an impressive stage where the Shakesperian plays are performed. And there are several other theatres adjacent. So, there are all sorts of plays and events going on simultaneously. Suzanne and I went to the box office and were able to purchase tickets for the evening's performance of Winter's Night Tale at the Elizabethan Theatre. More on that later.

We continued to meander down the streets of Ashland, noticing the unique architecture of the buildings and the various shops and stores. Ended up at the spot where the Lithia Water fountains were located. Randy and I took a drink of the rather pungent tasting water.

Suzanne then took us to a side street where the city had commissioned the painting of a huge wall mural. Loreta, the artist whose work had been selected, was present, as well as three others whose work she was directing. A colorful and impressive painting.

We meandered down along the stream to an outdoor restaurant, where we had a lovely lunch. Then headed back to the house to rest and relax for the afternoon.

When we got back to the house, I spread out my tent to air out and tested the new sleeping pad. Suzanne actually got in the tent and indicated her approval of the new setup. Looks like a definite improvement if/when we next camp.

After an afternoon nap, and a lovely dinner on the porch, Suzanne and I drove in to go to the play. Amazingly, we found a parking spot almost right next to the theatre. One of those non-coincidence coincidences, since we were a little short on time and the parking garage was full, as well as all the side streets. We had superb front row seats in the balcony, and the play was fantastic. I had read up on the story behind The Winter's Tale so I would know what was going on. This Shakespeare play was presented from the perspective of the Chinese Han dynasty and the Bohemian American West. If that sounds a little odd, you are right. But it worked. My favorite part was the "hoedown" (?) dance performed by the Bohemians in their colorful Western theme costumes that was performed just before the lead characters returned to the Chinese Han dynasty for the completion of the story. Everything comes together and there is a happy ending. 

Fell into bed exhausted and exhilarated after a wonderful day. I realize after reading this how poor a job I have done describing with any detail all that we saw and did. Like I said, Suzanne is fantastic as a tour guide and I could not begin to adequately summarize all we saw and learned today. We learned first hand why Ashland is such a desirable place to visit and live, and I would love to return some day.