July 18, 2016 Rest day in Port Coquitlam

Spent most of the morning catching up on the blog, looking at maps and talking with Carin. I made the final decision to stay over until Wednesday morning before resuming my journey. Take my time doing laundry, cleaning the bike, spending time on the revised route preparations, catching up with responding to some emails, and trying to rest a little. Plus, taking advantage of the opportunity to spend a little more time with Pam, Carin and Max - I am even getting occasional peaks at Molly before she realizes I am there.

A while back, Carin had been looking for someone to dogsit for Max when they needed to travel for a few weeks. She came upon one of those organizations that advertise just such a service, and interviewed a young woman over coffee to see if she fit the bill. Unfortunately, she did not fit the bill for a number of reasons. But what Carin realized was that providing that type of service for others was  something she would probably enjoy and be interested in doing. To make a long story short, she now works for a young couple taking care of their nine month old dachshund named Ferdinand. In essence, she is Ferd's "day mom". She goes over 4 days per week for 2-3 hours and spends time with him. More recently, Carin has begun taking Ferdinand out for walks and "socialization" training. Teaching him to like and get along with others, and how to behave in public. The next step has been taking Ferdinand on hikes to Minnekhada. Good physical conditioning in beautiful natural surroundings, and the opportunity to meet and greet other dogs and people.

Today, I got to along with Carin to take care of Ferd. He was adorable, albeit a little hesitant about who I was at first. We took him for a hike at Minnekhada, and he behaved perfectly. It was amazing how easily he hiked the rocks and boulders with those little legs churning and that tail wagging. By the time we returned to his house, Ferdinand was exhausted and clearly ready for an afternoon nap. And he and I were definitely on another level of friendship. He rolled over belly up to allow me to take off his harness. 

The rest of the afternoon was taken up with practicalities - a light lunch, getting my hair cut, going to the bank for more Canadien money, and shopping for snacks to take on the next leg of the journey. Then spent a little more time looking at possible places to stay the first couple of nights after I leave. 

After Pam got home from work, she proceeded to happily engage in preparing yet another delightful culinary experience. This time, it was Yakatori chicken skewers on the grill, grilled bok choy and zucchini, and both accompanied by seasoned rice. Unbelievably good - she has the "less is more" regarding seasonings and cooking down to a science, and the result is amazing. I am trying to take notes, but fear that I probably do not have the right temperament to be a gourmet cook - I am much better suited to being a grateful diner. 

Ended the evening watching a show with Pam that was on the Knowledge Channel called Secrets of the Castle. These archeologists and others built a castle in France using the same techniques and materials available as in the 1300's (I think). It was fascinating. But I was struggling to keep my eyes open, and when the show ended I immediately headed for bed. 

Another great day...

July 17, 2016 Rest Day in Port Coquitlam

Wow - what a wonderful day! It all started around 6:30 am with a cup of coffee as we gathered in front of the television to watch the final round of the British Open. One of the best finales to a major I have ever seen. Both Michelson and Stinson played brilliantly. However, Stinson prevailed, which made the resident Swede in this household very happy. I believe Stinson is the first Swede to win a major, and Carin told me he had overcome a series of challenges in recent years.

While watching the British Open, Pam once again worked her culinary magic, whipping up her infamous "Pamcakes", which combines the finest features of the best crepes and traditional pancakes. I am now a newly indoctrinated fan. It didn't hurt to have more of those fresh blueberries as an enhancement.

After the British Open, Carin took me for hike on one of her favorite trails - Minnekhada. The weather was perfect, and the trail ran alongside the marsh with its geese, ducks, herons and other animals. I saw what I think Carin confirmed was a bald eagle soaring overhead. We continued to follow the trail into the "rain forest". Some of the trees were huge. Carin told me that she loves to hike Minnekhada early in the morning. In difficult times, it gives her a real peace and calm. Sounds a lot like what my contemplative prayer practice does for me. As we hiked along, we continued sharing stories about our life experiences and what they have taught us. 

We caught up with Pam and went to a local restaurant for a light lunch of lettuce wraps and sweet potato fries. Just the trick to tie us over until dinner before heading out to the marina to go boating on the Pitt River. The weather was absolutely perfect for boating, and I got a whole other view from the boat of the Pitt River with its dykes and Minnekhada. Saw Ospreys nesting on the top of a pole in the water. We took the Pitt River all the way to the entrance to Pitt Lake, before returning to the marina. 

For dinner, Pam made neopolitan pizzas baked on the grill with homemade dough and fresh ingredients. Another Pam specialty, and one of the best pizzas I have tasted. Since she had some pizza dough left over, she decided to experiment with a spur of the moment creation of a grilled blueberry dessert concoction. Hard to go wrong with blueberries, and I think Pam can safely add another culinary creation to her repertoire. 

After dinner, I got to introduce Pam and Carin to my Mom by skype. That was fun. Mom has definitely fully embraced skyping, and I am so impressed with her progress.

At this point, I think we were all pretty exhausted from another exhilarating day, and retired early. Tomorrow, I plan to do more detailed route planning and perform basic bike cleaning and maintenance. 

Attached are a few bonus Max pictures.

July 16, 2016 Nanaimo --> Vancouver by ferry --> Port Coquitlam by car

I left the motel at approximately 11:00 am and biked 3 miles to catch the BC ferry across to Horsehoe Bay, just a little northwest of Vancouver. A young man named Wade cheerfully directed me as to where to go and the procedure for foot passengers with bicycles. I could not get over the number of cars and passengers that the ferry held, and marveled at the huge lineup of vehicles waiting to load, especially the 18 wheelers. Once the ferry came in, it took no more than 15 minutes or so to unload the 200+ cars and load the ferry for the return to Horsehoe Bay. I locked my bike on level 3, and found a comfortable seat for the 90 minute ride, during which time I snacked, napped and read.

My friend Dawne had put me in touch with her sister Pam, whom I had met some 20 years ago on a visit to Vancouver with Dawne. Pam picked me up at the ferry terminal and we drove the 35 miles or so to the town of Port Coquitlam, east of Vancouver, where she and her partner Carin have lived for 15 years. Pam proved to be an expert tour guide, pointing out places of interest and filling me in on the history of the area. (Suzanne may have met her match). Vancouver is a beautiful city, as are the surrounding areas, with views of nearby majestic mountains filled with green pines, and the scenic bays and waterways. While the main highway is often steep and winding, it is designed to include bicycle friendly routes. There were a fair amount of bikers today.  Pam deviated from the main highway and took the scenic route to Port Coquitlam. We passed through several very cute and interesting towns as she continued to give me the lay of the land. Like Vancouver Island, there were lots of bright flowers lining the streets and shops, and which are a mainstay of the landscaping of people's homes. 

Carin warmly greeted me at the door and immediately made me feel at home, noting that she remembers having met me 20 years ago or so on my visit with Dawne. I was introduced to Maximillian, their handsome dachshund, who is obviously in charge and protective of his territory - rightfully so. Max is a character, very talented and entertaining. I suspect we will be good friends by the time I leave. I also briefly spied Molly the cat before she darted away upstairs to hide. She is not too keen on strangers. 

While Pam went to the store, Carin and I spent some time getting to know each other better, and I felt an instant connection in terms of our worldview. No surface chit-chat for us - we immediately dived in. Carin is originally from Sweden, and has this wonderful lilting accent, exhibiting a curiousity about a wide range of topics. She is well read and enthusiastically engaged in learning about all aspects of the world she lives in and how she can make it better. She is an avid hiker, and loves nature and animals. By the time Pam returned from the store, Carin and I had covered a lot of territory in a very short time, and solved most of the pressing issues of our times. 

As Pam began prepping dinner, she took a look at my maps and made a terrific suggestion regarding the route I take from here. Rather than proceed to Banff on TransCanada Hwy 1, she suggested a more scenic southern route along the border with the US which will take me through some interesting areas and towns with historical significance. She and Carin have driven this alternative route many times. Most likely, this route will involve less traffic, and while I can still aim for Montana and Glacier National Park, the route will eliminate several hundred miles by not going to Banff. Which is okay, since I have been there previously on ski trips. Carin enthusiastically chimed in with her observations and support for the proposed route, and I found myself getting excited. It just felt right. So, looks like we have a new plan!

Pam is one of the most competent and talented women I have ever met. She is another lover of learning, and a wealth of information on any topic you can imagine, which she dispenses with obvious enjoyment and a sly twinkle in her eye. She has a wry sense of humor, which I appreciate. Pam is also another one of those people who loves to cook, taking a very scientific approach to her creations, while making it look easy as she prepares nothing less than a gourmet dining experience. She prepared a fabulous dinner of pork tenderloin, asparagus, new potatoes and a special tomato salad. The meal was topped off by a dessert of fresh blueberries with ice cream.  Once again, I was privileged to fully appreciate those talents in others which I lack in myself.

After dinner, we loaded up Max in the car and drove to the nearby Pitt River for a walk. The Pitt River is fed by the Fraser River, which runs from the Strait of Georgia and Salish Sea near Vancouver. Pam told me later that Pitt Lake is the largest tidal lake in the world. There are two dykes bordering the river on top of which are lovely hike/bike trails. I took a picture of some horses on the access road for my sister. The area immediately next to the dykes is somewhat marshy, and conducive to all sorts of birds nesting and eating, including those Canadien geese and blue herons I love. It was a lovely evening, and strolling on the dyke with Max was the perfect way to end a very full and enjoyable day. Before bed, Carin fixed me a cup of hot tea, and after a little more conversation I turned in exhausted. 

July 15, 2016 Duncan --> Nanaimo - 39 miles via scenic route

As I prepared to pull out of the parking lot of my motel, I took a picture of one of those logging trucks I frequently see - a harbinger of a definite theme of the day. 

At the edge of town, I stopped at the information center to check on further maps and/or info regarding the route to Nanaimo. I have found the information centers on Vancouver Island to be extraordinary in terms of both resources and knowledgable people. This one was even better than most. I was met outside by the most friendly and helpful attendant, who, when she saw me starting to look for a place to lock my bike, invited me to just wheel it right in to the center with me. Loved that. As I approached the front entrance, I noticed what appeared to be heavily laden blueberry bushes. The lady attendant told me that they were native blueberries and probably edible, although she discouraged folks from eating them. 

Once inside, the attendants all kind of gathered around and we talked about the scenic route to Nanaimo through Crofton, Chemainus and Ladysmith. I calculated that it could add as much as 10 miles to the ride to Nanaimo, but then made the bold decision to disregard my fears and apprehension and go with the present moment opportunity to experience the unknown. If it took me all day to get to Nanaimo, then so be it. In other words, maybe I should try to practice what I had been writing about in recent blogs. 

Before I left the info center, the attendants told me about some German brothers that had recently passed through cycling on their way to Rio. They had literally ridden all the way from Germany, except for the obvious points where they had to cross oceans or whatever. According to their blog, they did recently make it to Rio. 

As I left the info center, I noticed a produce/firewood stand on the road. I have seen many variations of these on the rural roads. You take what you want and leave the money. Sometimes what is there is a free gift. In all events, you are trusted to do the right thing. 

My decision to take the scenic route resulted in one of the best riding days on the island. The first part of the ride was on mostly flat roads, interspersed with some undulating hills. Nothing too drastic. Lush, green farmland all around, with those ever present brightly colored wildflowers and mountains in the distance. I saw some of the greenest corn fields I have ever seen on any of my bike travels. The entire stalk was dark green, not just the top half. I also saw some wonderful animals, including a field of pigs with personality. Just up ahead on the road after the pigs, I saw a sign for RASTA - Rescue and Sanctuary for Threatened Animals. A permanent place. I think I would love to work at such a facility. 

I was making good time and before I knew it I reached the small town of Crofton, with its scenic views of Osbourne Bay. There was the pervading sweet smell of wood in the air - not just when a logging truck passed. I discovered the source as I passed by huge mounds of mulch at what I assume was a processing plant.  

The next town I reached was Chemainus, famous for the 42 or so amazing murals painted on the sides of buildings in town. The town was so neat and clean, and had many enticing cafes and shops, as well as theatre centers. Overlooking the bay, you could see logs floating in the water next to the processing plant. They also had a wonderful information center and friendly people.  A woman of obvious native Indian heritage approached and asked about my journey. We had a nice conversation. She was originally from Duncan, but now lives in Chemainus. This is one place I would not mind returning to and spending more time.

I continued my ride along the Transcanada Bike Route to Ladysmith, yet another pretty town perched up on a hill overlooking the water. 

Unfortunately, I had to get on TransCanada Hwy 1 at Ladysmith for the remaining 10 miles or so to Nanaimo. The good news was that there was a nice wide shoulder, and a decent tailwind that fairly propelled me the rest of the way. I did stop briefly for a light lunch at a rest area before continuing on. Google Lady made one brief attempt to lead me astray on a side adventure, but my instincts kicked in early enough to thwart the attempt. I was proud of myself. 

I arrived at my motel around 2 pm, surprised to notice that the scenic add-on had little effect on the approximately 40 mile ride. The front desk clerk, Graeme, was extremely helpful in getting some of my motel awards issues worked out, and I settled into a very clean, spacious 1 bedroom suite. I have now been on the road so long that I am getting some unbelievable deals and rates on rooms due to AARP discounts + awards programs, including even getting free nights. Makes for even less incentive to camp. Graeme was also interested in the fact that I was from Austin, and told me he had been there on a bus trip through Texas. They would sleep on the bus, then stop at various points or cities of interest and sightsee during the day. Austin was one of his favorites. Meanwhile, another guest waiting to check in heard us talking, and introduced himself to me as Herb, from Tyler, Texas. Herb is a pilot for a private jet, and was very friendly. We talked about my bike ride, and his job. We both agreed that we did not miss the Texas heat. 

Had a lovely dinner at the motel, during which I learned my waitperson had also recently visited Texas and wanted to tell me all about that. She had identified me by my accent. Texans and visitors to Texas everywhere. I returned to my room to find that Mom had skyped - she is really in the swing of things now! Dawne also called excited and envious that I will be staying with Pam and Karen this weekend. We had a nice conversation.

So...ferrying over to Vancouver tomorrow. My time in Victoria and Vancouver Island was amazing. When I think back in the future, I think the things that will stand out most are how extremely bike friendly / accommodating the trails, roads and towns are. Truly, a biker's paradise. Secondly, I will have this mental picture of vivid flowers everywhere - in town, out of town, along the roads and trails, and a mainstay of most private homes' landscaping. Finally, I found the people friendly and helpful. I would love to return here someday if the opportunity arises.