September 11, 2013

September 11, 2013 Augusta --> Searsport, ME - 55 miles

It was still quite foggy as I set out at approximately 9:00 a.m. What I try to do to increase visibility in these situations is add blinking lights, pull out the bright yellow rain covers for the panniers, and wear my bright yellow bike jacket. Today, I added the new blinking red light to my clothes that was given to me by Scott in Vergennnes. The unique attachment device worked great.

Riding conditions more or less picked up where I left off yesterday. For the first 25 miles it was up and down and up and down and up and down... My legs quickly started feeling it, and my arms, shoulders and neck were stiff from yesterday's 80+ miles. It was also extremely humid, and I found myself sweating profusely. However, I did not want to take the bright yellow jacket off because of the fog and was soon drenched in sweat.

Several times along the way, my progress was delayed due to being held up by traffic crews performing road repairs. As I would continue on, I became more and more aware that I felt very tired, and began stopping more and more frequently to drink water, snack and just rest my legs a bit. The up and down hills continued on and on. I kept thinking that surely the road would level off the closer I got to the coast. But, the hills kept on.


By mid-morning, the fog had burned off and the sun came out. The temperature approached the low 80's. Low 80's in September in New England? I began to feel a little like late yesterday afternoon - like I might lose my mind due to the never-ending hills and heat. Since the traffic wasn't too heavy and there was a nice broad shoulder, I put on some music for the first time since the start of this trip and started singing at the top of my lungs. This helped "propel" me up the hills and I found that I began feeling more energetic. My legs felt stronger. The miles went by faster. And eventually, the hills became less and less steep - didn't go away entirely, but not quite as taxing.



I began noticing that there were still mountains off to the side in the distance, even as I came closer to the coast. That was something I had not known about Maine. Finally, I got my first glimpse of Atlantic Ocean related water. Wow - the destination goal is in sight, even if the leaves are not in full color mode yet. It has been a warmer than normal fall.








I reached Belfast around 2 p.m. and stopped in at McDonald's for a smoothie (thanks Nancy Perkins) and to use wi-fi to locate a motel. I found the Yardham Motel in Searsport, approximately 4 miles east of Belfast. Searsport is a cute little town and I immediately felt right at home. I passed by a church with a sign that said, "Choosing Joy is Worth the Effort." I loved that because I believe it is true that we can choose joy. In this world, that definitely requires effort at times. But the payoff for yourself and those who have to put up with you is well worth it.


The Yardham Motel was adorable - lots of character (the good kind) and I immediately felt at home. I felt very happy, and had arrived early enough that I could actually enjoy being there. I loved the fact that there is a bright yellow "Share the Road" sign attached to the motel sign. At the innkeeper's suggestion, I walked back into town for dinner at a local restaurant called The Brick House Restaurant. I had a pasta dish that was to die for, and a homemade strawberry short cake. One of the nice things about all the mountain and hill riding is guilt free eating.


I called Randy and we made arrangements to meet up tomorrow in Bar Harbor. I am looking forward to catching up on the past 2 weeks since we separated to pursue our different routes. After Bar Harbor, Randy will head to Syracuse to catch a flight home to Tucson the end of September.

The forecast tomorrow is for rain and cooler weather.

September 10, 2013

September 10, 2013 Center Conway, NH --> Augusta, ME - 83 miles

What a "marathon day" - and one of the hardest rides to date. Originally I planned to ride 55 miles to Lewiston, ME. However, in order to hook up with Randy in Bar Harbor on Thursday, that would have left a couple of 70+ mile days. I decided at the outset of the day to shoot instead for Augusta, ME, which would leave only 108 miles to Bar Harbor over two days - seemingly more doable.

I left under overcast skies and the threat of rain. It was quite cool and I layered clothes to remove as the day warmed up.

I crossed over into Maine within the first 3-4 miles, and stopped in at the Maine Information Center to pick up a state map.


Continued on for 13 miles to Bridgton, ME, where I had to make a decision as to which route to take over to Lewiston. Opted for the northern route along Hwy 117, followed by Hwy 121 & 11. Picked up a Subway veggie delight to take along just in case.

The first 11 miles or so on Hwy 117 were very enjoyable. Nice shoulder and the town of Harrison was quite scenic. Then, I ran into another decision. Google directions had me turn off onto Gore Road, a "side road" for 5 miles or so to cut over to Hwy 121. By now it was spitting rain intermittently. I was also a little less than confident in where Google was taking me after past experience. To top it off, my cell battery was getting low, even though I guess that didn't matter because there was no cell service here. So, I was a little concerned. I took comfort in the fact that there were a lot of houses and fairly frequent cars and trucks passing by in case I really felt loss and needed to ask.

On and on I pedaled - up and down and up and down hill after hill followed by some stretches of flatter road. The condition of the road was okay. I did eventually reach Hwy 121 and followed my directions to the outskirts of Lewiston, where I stopped at a McDonalds to re-group, re-charge my cell phone and use the Internet to plan
my next steps. Since it was still fairly early in the day, I decided to push ahead another 32 miles to Augusta. My biggest concern was uncertainty as to the terrain, as my legs and body in general were already tired. But I determined to push on and take it 1 mile at a time if necessary. A friendly local approached to chat, and based on his recommendation I decided to follow Hwy 202 mainly because of the promise of good shoulders and decent road conditions.

The ride started off fine, but the last 10 miles were brutal. Up and down and up and down and up and down...my legs were fairly screaming and I started becoming increasingly aware of my arms, shoulders and neck chiming in as well. At various points, the condition of the road was not great. I started fighting the urge to scream every time another hill appeared; then I went into this sort of "out of body experience" mode; finally followed by the thought that I might lose my mind (reminiscent of the Montana head winds debacle last summer). I stopped more and more frequently to just drink some water and re-group.

Finally, I gratefully reached Augusta around 5 p.m. and checked into a very nice Motel 6. Took a nice long soak in the tub, then walked down the street for a good meal. Started feeling a little revived, although my legs were really tired. Did laundry, and looked at routes and possible motels for tomorrow night. Thought a little more about the end game.

Tomorrow I plan on riding to Searsport - just east of Belfast. Probably around 55 miles. There appear to be some good motel possibilities there, and that will leave approximately 50 miles to Bar Harbor on Thursday to meet up with Randy.

September 9, 2013

September 9, 2013 Lincoln --> Center Conway, NH - 57 miles

I prepared myself physically for the ride up to Kancamagus Pass by partaking of the "proper fuel" - pancakes. I had a lovely seat next to a window overlooking the Pemigewasset River which ran alongside. Mentally, I tried to prepare for the worst - in this case, that would be long steep inclines to the highest elevation to date on tired legs. But, in reality, I did not know what to expect.


As I headed out of town, I stopped at a Subway and picked up a 12" veggie delight to have on hand for lunch and possibly dinner, since I could not tell what might or might not be available throughout the day. Often, the little towns on the maps have nothing more than a gas station or small convenience store with "slim pickings," and the motel I had located as a destination stop looked suspiciously in the middle of nowhere. So, I thought I should take precautions.

The first 3-4 miles heading east out of Lincoln were pleasant enough. Mostly very slight incline and a few mild rolling hills. I was "warned" to watch for Moose Crossing. From the size and urgency of the sign this sounded like a real possibility and I enthusiastically started a "moose watch."


My maps indicated that I had approximately 12 miles to reach The Kancamagus Pass. To my surprise and delight, my fears once again proved far worse than reality. The road up to the pass was a long, slight to moderate incline, that wound up and around many curves. Very doable and, in fact, enjoyable. Although I sometimes rode in the "granny gear" at the steepest parts, I never felt the need to get off and push and was able to ride the whole way. There were several scenic overlooks along the way, and more evidence of the coming turning of the leaves.





After reaching the summit, there was a rather steep 7% grade descent that wound down for 3 miles. Some parts of the road were smooth and I fairly glided at 30 mph. Other parts of the road were in lesser states of disrepair, and I proceeded more cautiously. However, the whole descent was very enjoyable overall and not nearly as stressful as yesterday. The road eventually leveled out into a somewhat steady downhill coast running past many hiking trails and campgrounds. I stopped at one trailhead for lunch and ate half of my Subway veggie delight plus some trail mix.





After lunch, I proceeded on happy with the thought that I was nearing my destination town of Center Conway and felt quite strong physically. The climb had not taken as much out of me as I feared. However, I then made one of those mistakes you fear the most as a biker - I misread the map and took a wrong turn at the intersection for my next highway. I intuitively turned in what I thought was the east direction. For the next 45 minutes to an hour, I climbed steep hills for almost 5 miles. I kept thinking, "I must almost be there." I even stopped once and checked Google lady and confirmed (I thought) that I was on the right road. My legs were screaming at this point and I had, indeed, to get off and push once or twice. It was that steep. Finally, I came to another intersection with some road signs and to my horror realized I was going west instead of east. I had to backtrack the 5 miles back to the intersection where I should have turn left instead of right. Then, I still had another 6 miles or so to my final destination. The only good news was that the return was almost entirely downhill - I saw firsthand how many steep climbs I had negotiated.

I finally arrived at the Saco River Motor Lodge, very tired at this point. As I suspected, it was more or less in the middle of nowhere and no food I sight. However, I was prepared! Happily ate the remainder of my Subway veggie delight, chips, apple and fig newtons/M & M's for dessert.


Tomorrow, I start the final push towards Bar Harbor. Estimated day of arrival is Thursday if I am able to up the daily mileage on flatter roads and the weather holds.

Never saw any moose, and probably not going to at this point.

September 8, 2013

September 8, 2013 Piermont --> Lincoln, NH - 32 miles

I waited until about 10:00 a.m. to leave Piermont in order to let the rain pass. The forecast was for continued cloudiness, but no real storms. It was discernibly cooler, in the low 40's. And quite a bit windy.

I followed the 13 mile route to Warren via Hwy 25c suggested by Karen and her sister. There were several moderate inclines along the way, but mostly rolling hills. The road was not as smooth as others, and in a state of moderate disrepair. However, traffic was light. Probably because it was Sunday morning. I immediately passed a sign proclaiming that I was entering the White Mountains Region.


At Warren, I picked up Hwy 118 toward North Woodstock and Lincoln, some 20 miles or so away. Here, the "fun" really began as I spent the next hour or so climbing. There were a series of short steep winding inclines interspersed with longer moderately steep winding inclines. The flat areas were few and far between. I found myself stopping frequently to rest my legs and snack. This 56 year old body is not proud, and on some of the steepest inclines I got off and pushed for significant stretches. At one point, the Appalachian Trail crossed this highway. Finally, I reached the summit, as evidenced by a sign that noted a 7% grade downhill for the next 3 miles. I gratefully began the descent, and quickly noticed that I was freezing. It was overcast, with intermittent "spits" of rain and sun shining through the clouds. Kinda schizophrenic. But definitely chilly. I stopped to add another layer of clothes. The steep descent was a little difficult to negotiate because I had to be vigilant of the somewhat spotty road conditions coupled with the shading that made it hard to sometimes see the bumps and places in need of repair. Because it was so steep, I was in almost constant braking mode of some sort, and consciously switching between front and rear braking to avoid overheating. I was freezing. Finally, finally, I reached the bottom and N. Woodstock, just west of Lincoln, NH.





Found a very reasonable motel and settled in for an afternoon of rest and preparation for the steepest climb to date tomorrow through Kancamagus Pass. My legs are quite sore and tired from all the climbing the past few days, so soaked in the tub and spent a good amount of time stretching and massaging the sore muscles. Had a wonderful dinner of beef stir dry with vegetables followed by apple pie a la mode. Mountain climbing definitely burns the calories and gives me a healthy appetite - as if I needed that.

By Monday evening, I will be close to entering Maine and within a few days of Bar Harbor. Although there has been a definite cooling in temperatures the past few days, I fear that the unseasonably warm fall will mean that the turning of the leaves will be a little later than usual and I may not see as much color as I had hoped. We'll see.

September 7, 2013

September 7, 2013 Bethel, VT --> Piermont, NH - 55 miles

Left Bethel and Nestled Inn at about 9:00 a.m. anticipating a couple good climbs at Sharon and Thetford. My legs were a little weary after yesterday's mountains. The first 10 miles or so were pleasant enough with just a few rolling hills to negotiate. For the most part, the White River ran alongside the road, which made for pleasant scenery. It was cool enough that I had to start with a long sleeve shirt and light jacket.


The first major climb of the day began at Sharon. It started with the road being blocked off to thru traffic due to construction. However, this actually worked in my favor because I was waved through and had no traffic whatsoever to contend with as I pumped up the steep incline. I stopped frequently to rest my legs and snack, and sometimes even got off and pushed at the steepest points. By the time I reached the summit, I had shed the long sleeve shirt and jacket and was sweating profusely. Then the fun began - a long downhill coast for several miles to South Stratford. Unlike the downhill road yesterday, this one was smooth pavement and in good repair, so I pretty much "let her rip," reaching a maximum speed of 39 mph at one point. It was a blast.





Had one more moderate climb to reach Thetford Hill, then pretty much downhill to the Connecticut River where I crossed over to New Hampshire. Followed River Road north, going through several one lane bridges and a small section of road which was packed dirt, and proceeded to Haverhill, which was my intended destination.





Unfortunately, I was unable to find a place to stay in the Haverhill area as everything was booked. The gathering dark clouds looked ominous, plus I just couldn't get excited about a foray into camping after several days of steep climbs and more to come. So, I backtracked 4-5 miles to Piermont, where I had located a room at The Piermont Inn, originally established in 1790 as a tavern and stagecoach stop. As stated in its brochure, The Piermont Inn today retains its colonial architectural style & charm, while at the same time providing the necessary conveniences of modern times." For me, this means hot shower and comfy bed out of the rain and weather. The Innkeeper was a delightful lady named Karen Brown, assisted by "Turbo", her trusty cohort. Turbo was adorable and gave me a little bit of a cat-like fix. I really wanted to put Turbo in my handlebar bag and take him with me.








Karen and her sister Lauren suggested an alternate route through Warren to Lincoln that would alleviate some, but not all, of the climbing through the White Mountains to Lincoln. I plan to stay in Lincoln tomorrow night, then tackle the steepest elevation of the trip on Monday - the Kancamagus Pass, elev. 2855 ft. Then it is on towards Bar Harbor. I received an email from Randy and he is already in Maine.

September 6, 2013

September 6, 2013 Basin Harbor --> Bethel, VT - 65 miles

Said goodbye to Diane and headed out for the 6 mile ride to Vergennes, where I planned to stop for a good breakfast to fuel my ride through the steepest mountain climbs so far. It was a beautiful day, and the temperature was the coolest to date - probably in the mid 40's to start. The early morning sun shined and illuminated the dew on the fields. I couldn't help but feel renewed and hopeful at the start of a new day. I passed by a pasture of cows I had noticed the day before and, in particular, a little red calf that had the cutest tuft of white fur lining his spine. I called out and we definitely shared a connection as he stared into my eyes.


Also saw many sunflowers this morning in people's yards, or along fields. Made me happy.


I had breakfast in Vergennes at Three Square Meals - the same restaurant where Diane and I had lunch yesterday. The food there is fabulous, and it ranks right up there in the top 5 eating establishments on the bike ride in both the breakfast and lunch categories. It also ranks right up there in terms of service and efficiency. Really, really like this cafe. I had a traditional breakfast of eggs, bacon, potatoes and toast with good strong coffee.


I had my maps spread out in front of me and, as I was finishing breakfast, a man walked over and handed me a gadget he had invented called Jogalite Snapalite and told me to have a good trip. He walked off before I barely had a chance to say hello or ask any questions. I looked at the Snapalite, and it is an amazing invention. Essentially a bright red light that flashes in multiple modes. That part is not that unusual and is similar to my red flashing tail light. What makes it unique is the ease with which it can be attached directly onto your clothes, helmet, handlebars, etc. Really neat. I asked one of the people working at the restaurant who this guy was and where I could find him so I could thank him and ask more questions. They directed me to an office across the street. I was greeted by a cute dog named Ella, who barked a warning to her owner, Scott Hardy, President of Linckia. We chatted a few minutes about his invention and Scott gave me a demonstration of how the light attaches. Loved it. Scott's website is www.linckia.com. Attached is a picture of Ella and Scott.


I took off toward Middlebury along increasingly steep rolling hills. A warmup and harbinger of the mountains to come later. The route I took avoided the main roads and put me on country roads. Green, lush fields and beautiful views. More apple orchards with trees loaded down with apples - I stopped and picked a few contraband apples. Along the side of the road at one point, I saw a sign nailed to a tree that said, "Dare to try something new." Hm...the theme of my life the last couple of years. The resulting adventures have been amazing.


As I approached Middlebury, I met two local couples on bicycles coming the other way. They were riding over to Vergennes to have lunch at The Three Squares. We chatted for a while and I learned that they are members of Warm Showers, an organization of members with an interest in biking. Members provide a place to stay for other members on tour, and will often even provide a meal. A good way to network and help keep expenses down. My experience with Warm Showers in the past has been positive. These folks also gave me helpful information on the mountain passes I was about to encounter and the best route to Bethel, my destination town for the day. The most helpful thing I learned was that the first 200-300 yards out of East Middlebury was the steepest and hardest climb of the day. This proved helpful mentally. The guy was right. This was a brutal climb, and at various points I got off and pushed to give my legs a rest. The next 10-15 miles through the Green Mountain National Forest was a series of long steep climbs and rolling hills. Gorgeous vistas and lush green fields alongside. I believe at the highest point the elevation was around 3200 feet. Then, a 2 mile descent at 12% grade into the town of Hancock. Unfortunately, I couldn't really let go and had to be more vigilant on this downhill coast because the roads were not in the best condition and in need of repair in many spots. It was a pretty bumpy ride. Still, at least I wasn't going uphill anymore.








The last 20 miles to Bethel were more or less a return to the rolling hills scenario. However, by this time I had ridden 40 miles or so and my legs and knees were feeling it. Finally reached Bethel around 5:00 pm or so and checked in to The Nestled Inn, a little B & B next to town. Gratefully soaked in a hot tub, then walked into town for some pasta and ice cream before returning to my room for the night.


Tomorrow looks like more of the same and, quite frankly, I am a little concerned about the steep mountain pass because my legs are tired from yesterday. But, I always seem to get through. I will likely pass over into New Hampshire tomorrow.

I have loved every minute I have been in Vermont - reminds me of how I felt about Oregon last year on the cross-country ride. The stunning vistas and views, the cool air, the vastness, and the people. The main difference is that in Oregon the terrain was more rugged and brown in places leading up to and surrounding the mountains beyond Eugene. In Vermont, the operative word really is "green". I would love to return and ride here again.

September 5, 2013

September 5, 2013 Burlington --> Basin Harbor, VT - 30 miles

I planned to try and get on the road fairly close to 7:00 a.m. I hoped to arrive at Basin Harbor Club early enough to spend most of the day with my friend, Diane Henson, whom I just happened to run into on the street in Burlington yesterday.

Ron got up early and fixed coffee and a buckwheat waffle to get me started. We sat at the dining table and gazed at the beautiful view of Lake Champlain. I asked if he sat outside much in the area under the Concord grapes, and he replied, "Not really - I don't sit anywhere much for very long." That cracked me up as it was such an honest answer - the man appears to be in perpetual motion exuding such positive energy. I asked again what he had done before retiring, and he told me about his job with Burlington Electric, and how he had been fortunate that they allowed him to pursue various projects on company time with a vision towards improving the environment. In particular, Ron is interested (among other areas of interest) in the development of energy efficient cars, electric cars and other vehicles. Burlington benefitted from the positive image as a environmental visionary, and Ron was able to pursue his passion. In addition to Burlington, Ron helped found a little computer company..developed a property management business ...and...on and on...you get the picture. What suddenly occurred to me was the fact that Ron's most outstanding characteristic is that he is constantly thinking outside of the box. Coming up with creative ideas to better the environment and people's lives, and the energy and daring to make them happen. And it appears almost effortless because it is such a part of his make up and what obviously gives him joy. I noted this, and he said something very profound - he told me that most people are more creative and capable of thinking outside the box than they give themselves credit for, but the key is to be "planted" in fertile soil which will provide the encouragement and opportunity to grow and flourish. If you are "planted" in rocky soil, your ability to think and act outside the box will be limited. Hmm..sounds like a biblical parable.

I left shortly after 7:00 a.m. and headed for Basin Harbor via the Champlain Byway on a road that Ron recommended to avoid the traffic on Hwy 7. The road wove up and down through rolling hills and lush green farmland, often with views of Lake Champlain in the distance. Perfect temperature and riding conditions.



Diane is at a resort called Bar Harbor Club on Lake Champlain. Right across the lake is the town of Westport, NY, where I almost spent the night on Tuesday before deciding to go on to Shelburne. She is on a 3 day bike riding adventure put on by Sojourn Adventures, which officially started late this afternoon with a bike fitting and 9 mile warmup ride. Diane came a couple of days early to play golf and see the area.




Diane and I had most of the late morning and early afternoon to spend together. I "caddied" for her on the back nine of golf; we drove into town to explore and for a fabulous lunch at a local cafe; then I did laundry for the both of us while Diane attended the bike fitting and took her first introductory ride. We had a lot of fun and constantly marveled at our chance meeting. Laughed a lot.



Before Diane had to leave for dinner, we called Del to see if he had read yesterday's blog about our chance meeting. Del and Diane have been friends for years, having tried lawsuits together as co-counsel. Diane has a very vivacious and outgoing personality, and Del always got a big kick out of working with her - she definitely has a talent and knack for thinking "out of the box" when it comes to presenting her case before a jury. Del enthusiastically answered the phone and the three of us had a nice visit.

Tomorrow, I head east across Vermont and the mountains. My goal (at least at this moment) is Bethel, VT, some 55-60 miles away. The forecast is for sunny skies and a high in the 60's. The low for tonight is expected to reach around 40 degrees. Looks like fall may be starting to arrive.