September 8, 2013

September 8, 2013 Piermont --> Lincoln, NH - 32 miles

I waited until about 10:00 a.m. to leave Piermont in order to let the rain pass. The forecast was for continued cloudiness, but no real storms. It was discernibly cooler, in the low 40's. And quite a bit windy.

I followed the 13 mile route to Warren via Hwy 25c suggested by Karen and her sister. There were several moderate inclines along the way, but mostly rolling hills. The road was not as smooth as others, and in a state of moderate disrepair. However, traffic was light. Probably because it was Sunday morning. I immediately passed a sign proclaiming that I was entering the White Mountains Region.


At Warren, I picked up Hwy 118 toward North Woodstock and Lincoln, some 20 miles or so away. Here, the "fun" really began as I spent the next hour or so climbing. There were a series of short steep winding inclines interspersed with longer moderately steep winding inclines. The flat areas were few and far between. I found myself stopping frequently to rest my legs and snack. This 56 year old body is not proud, and on some of the steepest inclines I got off and pushed for significant stretches. At one point, the Appalachian Trail crossed this highway. Finally, I reached the summit, as evidenced by a sign that noted a 7% grade downhill for the next 3 miles. I gratefully began the descent, and quickly noticed that I was freezing. It was overcast, with intermittent "spits" of rain and sun shining through the clouds. Kinda schizophrenic. But definitely chilly. I stopped to add another layer of clothes. The steep descent was a little difficult to negotiate because I had to be vigilant of the somewhat spotty road conditions coupled with the shading that made it hard to sometimes see the bumps and places in need of repair. Because it was so steep, I was in almost constant braking mode of some sort, and consciously switching between front and rear braking to avoid overheating. I was freezing. Finally, finally, I reached the bottom and N. Woodstock, just west of Lincoln, NH.





Found a very reasonable motel and settled in for an afternoon of rest and preparation for the steepest climb to date tomorrow through Kancamagus Pass. My legs are quite sore and tired from all the climbing the past few days, so soaked in the tub and spent a good amount of time stretching and massaging the sore muscles. Had a wonderful dinner of beef stir dry with vegetables followed by apple pie a la mode. Mountain climbing definitely burns the calories and gives me a healthy appetite - as if I needed that.

By Monday evening, I will be close to entering Maine and within a few days of Bar Harbor. Although there has been a definite cooling in temperatures the past few days, I fear that the unseasonably warm fall will mean that the turning of the leaves will be a little later than usual and I may not see as much color as I had hoped. We'll see.

September 7, 2013

September 7, 2013 Bethel, VT --> Piermont, NH - 55 miles

Left Bethel and Nestled Inn at about 9:00 a.m. anticipating a couple good climbs at Sharon and Thetford. My legs were a little weary after yesterday's mountains. The first 10 miles or so were pleasant enough with just a few rolling hills to negotiate. For the most part, the White River ran alongside the road, which made for pleasant scenery. It was cool enough that I had to start with a long sleeve shirt and light jacket.


The first major climb of the day began at Sharon. It started with the road being blocked off to thru traffic due to construction. However, this actually worked in my favor because I was waved through and had no traffic whatsoever to contend with as I pumped up the steep incline. I stopped frequently to rest my legs and snack, and sometimes even got off and pushed at the steepest points. By the time I reached the summit, I had shed the long sleeve shirt and jacket and was sweating profusely. Then the fun began - a long downhill coast for several miles to South Stratford. Unlike the downhill road yesterday, this one was smooth pavement and in good repair, so I pretty much "let her rip," reaching a maximum speed of 39 mph at one point. It was a blast.





Had one more moderate climb to reach Thetford Hill, then pretty much downhill to the Connecticut River where I crossed over to New Hampshire. Followed River Road north, going through several one lane bridges and a small section of road which was packed dirt, and proceeded to Haverhill, which was my intended destination.





Unfortunately, I was unable to find a place to stay in the Haverhill area as everything was booked. The gathering dark clouds looked ominous, plus I just couldn't get excited about a foray into camping after several days of steep climbs and more to come. So, I backtracked 4-5 miles to Piermont, where I had located a room at The Piermont Inn, originally established in 1790 as a tavern and stagecoach stop. As stated in its brochure, The Piermont Inn today retains its colonial architectural style & charm, while at the same time providing the necessary conveniences of modern times." For me, this means hot shower and comfy bed out of the rain and weather. The Innkeeper was a delightful lady named Karen Brown, assisted by "Turbo", her trusty cohort. Turbo was adorable and gave me a little bit of a cat-like fix. I really wanted to put Turbo in my handlebar bag and take him with me.








Karen and her sister Lauren suggested an alternate route through Warren to Lincoln that would alleviate some, but not all, of the climbing through the White Mountains to Lincoln. I plan to stay in Lincoln tomorrow night, then tackle the steepest elevation of the trip on Monday - the Kancamagus Pass, elev. 2855 ft. Then it is on towards Bar Harbor. I received an email from Randy and he is already in Maine.

September 6, 2013

September 6, 2013 Basin Harbor --> Bethel, VT - 65 miles

Said goodbye to Diane and headed out for the 6 mile ride to Vergennes, where I planned to stop for a good breakfast to fuel my ride through the steepest mountain climbs so far. It was a beautiful day, and the temperature was the coolest to date - probably in the mid 40's to start. The early morning sun shined and illuminated the dew on the fields. I couldn't help but feel renewed and hopeful at the start of a new day. I passed by a pasture of cows I had noticed the day before and, in particular, a little red calf that had the cutest tuft of white fur lining his spine. I called out and we definitely shared a connection as he stared into my eyes.


Also saw many sunflowers this morning in people's yards, or along fields. Made me happy.


I had breakfast in Vergennes at Three Square Meals - the same restaurant where Diane and I had lunch yesterday. The food there is fabulous, and it ranks right up there in the top 5 eating establishments on the bike ride in both the breakfast and lunch categories. It also ranks right up there in terms of service and efficiency. Really, really like this cafe. I had a traditional breakfast of eggs, bacon, potatoes and toast with good strong coffee.


I had my maps spread out in front of me and, as I was finishing breakfast, a man walked over and handed me a gadget he had invented called Jogalite Snapalite and told me to have a good trip. He walked off before I barely had a chance to say hello or ask any questions. I looked at the Snapalite, and it is an amazing invention. Essentially a bright red light that flashes in multiple modes. That part is not that unusual and is similar to my red flashing tail light. What makes it unique is the ease with which it can be attached directly onto your clothes, helmet, handlebars, etc. Really neat. I asked one of the people working at the restaurant who this guy was and where I could find him so I could thank him and ask more questions. They directed me to an office across the street. I was greeted by a cute dog named Ella, who barked a warning to her owner, Scott Hardy, President of Linckia. We chatted a few minutes about his invention and Scott gave me a demonstration of how the light attaches. Loved it. Scott's website is www.linckia.com. Attached is a picture of Ella and Scott.


I took off toward Middlebury along increasingly steep rolling hills. A warmup and harbinger of the mountains to come later. The route I took avoided the main roads and put me on country roads. Green, lush fields and beautiful views. More apple orchards with trees loaded down with apples - I stopped and picked a few contraband apples. Along the side of the road at one point, I saw a sign nailed to a tree that said, "Dare to try something new." Hm...the theme of my life the last couple of years. The resulting adventures have been amazing.


As I approached Middlebury, I met two local couples on bicycles coming the other way. They were riding over to Vergennes to have lunch at The Three Squares. We chatted for a while and I learned that they are members of Warm Showers, an organization of members with an interest in biking. Members provide a place to stay for other members on tour, and will often even provide a meal. A good way to network and help keep expenses down. My experience with Warm Showers in the past has been positive. These folks also gave me helpful information on the mountain passes I was about to encounter and the best route to Bethel, my destination town for the day. The most helpful thing I learned was that the first 200-300 yards out of East Middlebury was the steepest and hardest climb of the day. This proved helpful mentally. The guy was right. This was a brutal climb, and at various points I got off and pushed to give my legs a rest. The next 10-15 miles through the Green Mountain National Forest was a series of long steep climbs and rolling hills. Gorgeous vistas and lush green fields alongside. I believe at the highest point the elevation was around 3200 feet. Then, a 2 mile descent at 12% grade into the town of Hancock. Unfortunately, I couldn't really let go and had to be more vigilant on this downhill coast because the roads were not in the best condition and in need of repair in many spots. It was a pretty bumpy ride. Still, at least I wasn't going uphill anymore.








The last 20 miles to Bethel were more or less a return to the rolling hills scenario. However, by this time I had ridden 40 miles or so and my legs and knees were feeling it. Finally reached Bethel around 5:00 pm or so and checked in to The Nestled Inn, a little B & B next to town. Gratefully soaked in a hot tub, then walked into town for some pasta and ice cream before returning to my room for the night.


Tomorrow looks like more of the same and, quite frankly, I am a little concerned about the steep mountain pass because my legs are tired from yesterday. But, I always seem to get through. I will likely pass over into New Hampshire tomorrow.

I have loved every minute I have been in Vermont - reminds me of how I felt about Oregon last year on the cross-country ride. The stunning vistas and views, the cool air, the vastness, and the people. The main difference is that in Oregon the terrain was more rugged and brown in places leading up to and surrounding the mountains beyond Eugene. In Vermont, the operative word really is "green". I would love to return and ride here again.

September 5, 2013

September 5, 2013 Burlington --> Basin Harbor, VT - 30 miles

I planned to try and get on the road fairly close to 7:00 a.m. I hoped to arrive at Basin Harbor Club early enough to spend most of the day with my friend, Diane Henson, whom I just happened to run into on the street in Burlington yesterday.

Ron got up early and fixed coffee and a buckwheat waffle to get me started. We sat at the dining table and gazed at the beautiful view of Lake Champlain. I asked if he sat outside much in the area under the Concord grapes, and he replied, "Not really - I don't sit anywhere much for very long." That cracked me up as it was such an honest answer - the man appears to be in perpetual motion exuding such positive energy. I asked again what he had done before retiring, and he told me about his job with Burlington Electric, and how he had been fortunate that they allowed him to pursue various projects on company time with a vision towards improving the environment. In particular, Ron is interested (among other areas of interest) in the development of energy efficient cars, electric cars and other vehicles. Burlington benefitted from the positive image as a environmental visionary, and Ron was able to pursue his passion. In addition to Burlington, Ron helped found a little computer company..developed a property management business ...and...on and on...you get the picture. What suddenly occurred to me was the fact that Ron's most outstanding characteristic is that he is constantly thinking outside of the box. Coming up with creative ideas to better the environment and people's lives, and the energy and daring to make them happen. And it appears almost effortless because it is such a part of his make up and what obviously gives him joy. I noted this, and he said something very profound - he told me that most people are more creative and capable of thinking outside the box than they give themselves credit for, but the key is to be "planted" in fertile soil which will provide the encouragement and opportunity to grow and flourish. If you are "planted" in rocky soil, your ability to think and act outside the box will be limited. Hmm..sounds like a biblical parable.

I left shortly after 7:00 a.m. and headed for Basin Harbor via the Champlain Byway on a road that Ron recommended to avoid the traffic on Hwy 7. The road wove up and down through rolling hills and lush green farmland, often with views of Lake Champlain in the distance. Perfect temperature and riding conditions.



Diane is at a resort called Bar Harbor Club on Lake Champlain. Right across the lake is the town of Westport, NY, where I almost spent the night on Tuesday before deciding to go on to Shelburne. She is on a 3 day bike riding adventure put on by Sojourn Adventures, which officially started late this afternoon with a bike fitting and 9 mile warmup ride. Diane came a couple of days early to play golf and see the area.




Diane and I had most of the late morning and early afternoon to spend together. I "caddied" for her on the back nine of golf; we drove into town to explore and for a fabulous lunch at a local cafe; then I did laundry for the both of us while Diane attended the bike fitting and took her first introductory ride. We had a lot of fun and constantly marveled at our chance meeting. Laughed a lot.



Before Diane had to leave for dinner, we called Del to see if he had read yesterday's blog about our chance meeting. Del and Diane have been friends for years, having tried lawsuits together as co-counsel. Diane has a very vivacious and outgoing personality, and Del always got a big kick out of working with her - she definitely has a talent and knack for thinking "out of the box" when it comes to presenting her case before a jury. Del enthusiastically answered the phone and the three of us had a nice visit.

Tomorrow, I head east across Vermont and the mountains. My goal (at least at this moment) is Bethel, VT, some 55-60 miles away. The forecast is for sunny skies and a high in the 60's. The low for tonight is expected to reach around 40 degrees. Looks like fall may be starting to arrive. 

                     

                     

September 4, 2013

    My new friend, Ron Manganiello, founder of Bike Recycle Vermont
September 4, 2013 Shelburne --> Burlington - 14 miles or so

Ron biked over from his home in S. Burlington to my motel in Shelburne. We rode back to his house along the bike route consisting mostly of paved designated trails and interspersed with some roads. After about a 30-45 minute ride, we arrived at Ron's house and I met his wife Ellen. They have a lovely home with a beautiful view of Lake Champlain. There is an outside sitting area over which hang vines of succulent purple Concord grapes for the picking and eating. Ron showed me the little 1 room cabin down the side of the steep hill in front of their home which he built. It has windows overlooking the lake and provides a quiet and serene place to hang out.



Ron and Ellen have a very comfortable and inviting home. They live simply, yet their home is tastefully decorated with all sorts of interesting art, books and items that are expressions of their varied interests. They are actively engaged in their community and especially in helping promote and provide opportunities for those less fortunate. As I may have noted previously, Ron retired approximately 10 years ago and is the founder of Bike Recycle Vermont, a non- profit organization that rebuilds discarded and donated bikes and gives them to those in need. In just the first four years, Bike Recycle Vermont provided over 2000 bikes to low income Vermonters, and started a youth training program. Ellen formerly worked as a mediator, with an emphasis in family law. For the past several years, she has pursued her passion for learning and becoming fluent in Spanish. Ron and Ellen typically spend several months in Oaxaca, Mexico during the winter months where they are actively involved in various projects.

Ron and Ellen also have a special interest in cooking. For lunch, Ellen fixed a wonderful soup that I think was a purée of some sort of all types of veggies. I am no cooking expert, but I do love to eat and this soup was delicious. Also had goat cheese and toast on the side.

After lunch, Ron and I biked in to Burlington along another lovely paved bike trail. He took me to Local Motion, the parent company of Bike Recycle Vermont, and I got to meet some of the staff and pick up Vermont and New Hampshire bike route maps to assist in planning the next stage of my bike ride.



We then headed to the main downtown area where the street was open only to pedestrian traffic. All sorts of interesting stores and restaurants lined the street. As we were walking along pushing our bicycles, I heard someone yell, "Kim Basinger!!" I turned to find Diane Henson standing there gaping in shock, and immediately went into a kind of shock of my own. Diane has been a close friend of mine in Austin for over 20 years. Turns out she was staying about 30 miles away in Basin Harbor on a Sojourn adventure vacation and had driven up for the day to see Burlington. The three of us just shook our heads in amazement - what is the chance of just happening to run into each other at that particular spot at that exact time on this very day? As Diane put it, "If I hadn't stopped for that cappachino for 10 minutes, and then at the chocolate shop, we would not have crossed paths." Or, what about the fact that I only decided to come to Burlington a few days ago after meeting Ron and Tom on the way to Lake Placid. Diane and I decided to meet up later for dinner after Ron finished giving me the tour.


Ron and I then rode to the part of town where a lot of the non-profits and service organizations are located. There was an amazing array. For me, Burlington had an aura similar to what I felt in Eugene, Oregon last summer. A great emphasis on the environment, arts, being bike friendly, and helping those less fortunate.

We stopped briefly at the bike museum called Old Spokes Home. The collection of old bikes from the 1800's on was amazing, and demonstrated the various developments in bicycles over the years. In reality, the basic mechanics seem amazingly similar. Randy and I have often marveled at how simple, basic and durable bicycles are.



From the Old Spokes Home, we moved on to Bike Recycle Vermont and I met BRV manager, Dan Hock, and several volunteers at work fixing up bicycles. Ron gave me a tour of the facility and I learned about some other areas into which the organization has expanded. For example, they now offer some bicycles for sale on Craig's list. They also make innovative jewelry out of bike parts which is sold to raise funds to support Bike Recycle Vermont. Ron was even wearing a really cool belt that he made from a bike tire and bike parts. The obvious creativity and vision of the organization as a whole is astonishing to me. I would encourage you to check it out for yourselves at www.bikerecycle.localmotion.org.
I

                                                      Ron and BRV manager, Dan Hock

I left Ron and returned to town to meet Diane for dinner. We had a great time catching up on everything that has been going on since I left Austin the first of July. We decided that I would bike the 30 miles to Basin Harbor tomorrow morning and spend the day golfing, biking and hanging out with Diane before heading out Friday on the final leg to Bar Harbor.

Amazing doesn't even come close to describing this day!

September 3, 2013

September 3, 2013 Lake Placid --> Shelburne, VT - 54 miles

Left my "home" at the Alpine Air Motel at approximately 8:30 a.m. and headed downtown for a repeat of breakfast at The Breakfast Club. About halfway through breakfast, a light but steady rain started to fall. All contrary to the weather forecast. This was supposed to be an overcast day, not a rainy day. I took a big sigh and calmly accepted that I might be riding in the rain again. That is another change I can tell about my riding - when it rains I seem to approach it much more calmly and matter of fact instead of with my usual dread. Maybe because I have faced the worst and know it always works out okay. Usually better than okay. A metaphor for our fears in life - what we fear is almost always worse than reality. And we make it worse by procrastination and/or trying to avoid our fears, rather than face them head on. In my own life, the times of greatest triumph and joy have been when I moved in spite of and beyond my fears. Did not allow myself to become paralyzed by fear into inaction and mere existence.

By the time I headed out of town, the rain had slowed to a spit. I stopped briefly at Subway to pick up a veggie delight for lunch in case I was somewhere in the mountains and no place to eat. The first 7 miles were a repeat of the ride out to the bobsled venue on Sunday. At about the 2 mile mark, I started the long, gradual incline I remembered as almost never-ending the first time around. To my delight, I climbed right up without a problem, and found that my legs felt really strong and rested. This bode well for the mountains to follow.

By now the rain had stopped entirely, although there were some rather ominous looking dark clouds in the distance. As I progressed on the High Peaks Scenic Byway, I began to encounter more and more frequent long, steep inclines ringed by mountain views. It was very humid and I was sweating profusely as I pumped up the inclines. However, the reward after reaching each summit was an exhilarating dash down the mountain, sometimes for several miles and at speeds up to 35 mph. In my head, I could hear Randy squealing with delight, as he would often do on these types of downhills. The road conditions were ideal. Flat and smooth with broad shoulders and little traffic. Rivers and streams meandered alongside. To top it all off, I had found atomic fire balls in Lake Placid and this just made the whole experience even more special. I reflected on how different this mountain climbing experience was from last summer on the cross-country ride. Then, I approached the mountains with a certain amount of fear and apprehension, dreading the climbs. They were really hard. Today, I felt physically strong and enjoyed the climbs as well as the downhills. I felt happy.




I was making really good time and approached my destination town of Westport just after lunch. The sun had come out and there were blue skies, albeit with some clouds mixed in. I was having such a good time riding and it was so early I didn't want to stop. So, I just kept going on. By now, I was pretty much out of the mountains and cruising through the countryside on rolling hills.


I started seeing signs for the Essex ferry and decided I might as well go on to Vermont. I met another biker named Harris on the ferry who was out for a day ride. Harris was a retired land surveyor. We had a nice conversation and he pointed out the Green Mountains in the distance and gave me some interesting background information. We talked about biking in Vermont and Canada, and he told me there are some really nice trails near Montreal and Quebec City, which I am hoping Randy is finding. Harris was wearing a VBT (Vermont Bicycle Tours) bike jersey, having taken numerous bike trips with them. Turns out he and his wife had gone on the Tuscany by the Sea tour in Italy - the same tour my family did together for my 50th birthday. He asked about my route from Vermont, and gave me a Vermont state highway map to assist in my planning. We talked about his family and exchanged business cards. The card he gave me was one he has had since the 1960's. Apparently, he had either never given many out, or had had an enormous number of cards printed back then. For some reason, I got a kick out of this and found it amusing. When the ferry docked, Harris and I parted ways as I stopped to eat my veggie delight sub.



I continued my ride and was conscious of a certain "feel" that Vermont had for me. It is hard to describe, since it was more of a feel, but it just felt like a really good vibe. I rode through sprawling farmlands and up and down gentle hills. Clouds were gathering in the distance, but I didn't feel that I needed to take them too seriously. All of a sudden, I saw a sign alongside the road for "Sojourn Bicycling and Active Vacations" in front of a large white house with a red barn-looking building behind it. I fairly leapt off my bike to stop and take a picture. I had interviewed with Sojourn last year for a possible position as one of their bike tour leaders in California. I found the stairs up to the top of the red barn and went in to say hi and check out the operation. The woman who had interviewed me, named Michelle, was not there. But I had a nice visit with the other Sojourn folks. It was a pleasant surprise to be able to connect a name with the location of an organization I routinely receive information from.



I proceeded on and decided to stop at a little grocery store/deli for something cold to drink and to look for a place to stay in Shelburne for the night. As I was sitting on a bench checking out TripAdvisor, a woman came up and asked if I was the biker, having seen my loaded bike leaned up against the building. We had a delightful conversation over a variety of topics. Barbara and her husband had done a bike tour in Germany, and she routinely rides with folks on a weekly basis in Vermont. Turns out she is a horse massage therapist, so I told her all about my sister Donna and her horse. Barbara told me about her horse. We talked about my current ride, and I gave her my business card. She told me about a friend she had known with ALS and I again marveled that just about everyone I meet on this trip has had some experience with a loved one or acquaintance that has suffered from this devastating disease. She inquired as to how she might make a donation, and I told her there was a tab to click on my bike blog that would direct her to the ALS Association if she was interested. I was enjoying the conversation so much that I hated to see her go.

Unfortunately, I had taken so long between stopping for lunch at the ferry, stopping at Sojourn, and visiting with Barbara at the convenience store, that very dark clouds had rolled in and a storm was brewing. I optimistically thought if I hurried I would be able to ride the remaining 7 miles to Shelburne before the storm struck. I was wrong. About 5 miles outside Shelburne I was hit by a deluge and was immediately drenched. I pedaled through the rain another 5 miles before finding one of those locally owned reasonable motels where I got a room for the night. Called the T-Bird Motor Inn, it was somewhat of a throwback to the 60's style motel, except that it had this huge 45" HD TV. Great for viewing the "So You Think You Can Dance" Final. The room was very clean and spacious, and I felt comfortable and happy.

By the time I got everything cleaned up and took a hot bath, the rain had stopped and I was able to walk down the road to a little Italian restaurant for some pasta primavera. After returning to my room, I spent some time looking at a route for the next several days. Then got an email from Randy that he anticipated getting to Bar Harbor around September 11, which just happens to coincide with the date I planned on getting there. So, looks like we might hook up again for the "finale" of the Tour of the Leaves ride. That would be fun.

Tomorrow I am meeting with my new friend Ron and heading to Burlington for the day.